In this article, we answer these questions:
Disclaimer: The information compiled here is based on actual experience and diligent research. Nevertheless, it should not be treated as professional advice. As always, read the label and proceed with caution.
One Friday afternoon, our in-house product specialist, Sam C, soaked a bunch of rusted sprockets into pure Evapo-Rust solution. He took photos of his progress of what happened after soaking them (1) after two hours and (2) over the weekend.
(He also brought a pair of pliers riddled with saltwater rust, which we also covered further below.)
Quick verdict: Evapo-Rust works! Rusts gone.
Here are the rusted sprockets before soaking. As you can see, some of them are heavily rusted on the surface, while some are not:
Here they are after being soaked in pure Evapo-Rust after two hours:
Comparison of the “untreated” (top-half) and “treated” (bottom-half) after being soaked for two hours:
Here they are after being soaked into pure Evapo-Rust over the weekend:
Most came off visibly “rust-free” after some thorough wiping, although Sam had to lightly steel-brush a few ones “to speed up the process” and get the same rust-free result.
According to Sam:
“I used CRC Evapo-Rust with some great results. The photos are time-lapse as well to show the different results. In short, the longer we leave product in solution, the better the results.”
“Rusty sprockets will pose a problem if they are installed as they are. They will work, but the addition of grease will contaminate the lubricant and add to chain and sprocket wear. The trick is to keep the lubricant clear of any contaminants and prolonging the life of all wearing parts. Rust also destroys surface hardness and will accelerate wear."
The quick answer is a yes. It is designed to do one job -- remove rust -- and it does it well, provided, of course, that you use it properly and according to instruction.
Here’s the CRC Evapo-Rust in action:
It “effectively removes even deep rust on all types of mild steels and iron”.
According to the technical data sheet, you should use the product as follows:
Note: Deeply rusted parts (5 mm or deeper) may require overnight soaking. Evapo-Rust can be used over and over until performance drops off. When ready to dispose of spent solution, only the iron content of the solution will dictate disposal method. In most cases, it can be safely put down the drain.
EVAPO-RUST® works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Most chelating agents bind many different metals. The active ingredient in EVAPO-RUST® bonds to iron exclusively. It can remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly. Once the chelating agent has removed the iron, a sulfur-bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelator and forms a ferric sulfate complex which remains water soluble. This frees the chelating agent to remove more iron from rust.
More tips from the technical data sheet c/o crceurope.com:
That depends a lot on:
While both the spray gel and liquid solution basically have the same formulation, the spray gel “clings” to the surface of the item in question so there’s no need to soak it.
If you have the liquid solution, use it pure and undiluted. It’s ready to use right off the bottle, and there is no need to mix with water.
In Sam’s experiment, he took a 5-litre Evapo-Rust solution container to fully submerge around 100 kilograms of sprockets of various sizes. (Fun fact: According to Microsoft Word, 100 kilograms is around the weight of an average professional basketball player.)
Sam said he was able to “salvage back in the container about ¾ of the Evapo-Rust solution”.
You only need to submerge the rusted areas. If the whole item is badly rusted all over, then yes, you’ll want to submerge it altogether, especially if it’s badly eaten by rust just like the tools and components in this video by CRC NZ:
The Evapo-Rust is safe to use on (not harmful to):
In fact, Sam has another example, this time with his rusty pliers -- that he uses for fishing, so it is riddled with saltwater rust -- that are seized up and wouldn't spring open. After soaking them in 're-used' Evapo-Rust solution for two hours a soaking and a some mild cleaning up with a wire brush, he was happy with the result:
That depends a lot on how badly rusted parts are.
In Sam’s experiment, the sprockets’ surfaces were significantly “rust-free” after a two-hour soak in pure Evapo-Rust but note that they are not heavily rusted to begin with. (He waited it out for another two days.)
Sam had to lightly brush off a few sprockets to achieve the desired result.
According to CRC’s video above, the technical data sheet and Sam's pliers example, yes you can reuse the solution “until the performance drops off”.
It is “non-caustic”, “non-flammable” and “contains no flammable materials”. We reckon the same is true for the liquid solution. However, keep in mind that it’s still a chemical product best kept away from obvious heat sources and open flames.
Please use common sense and observe safety precautions when using the product, but for the record:
Feedback: Ken H from Perth shared his experience with the CRC Evapo-Rust:
"I have used it on a couple of things, and have had brilliant results. I have just restored two old motorcycles to "as new" condition, and for most of the components a wire buff or grit blasting worked well. But there are a few components which were too delicate for that. One in particular was the tool box on my 1963 A10 BSA.
The sheet steel it is made from is too old/delicate to use grit blasting. The corners and confines make the wire wheel either inaccessible, or dangerous, as it catches on edges. Any acidic medium (if left too long) would dissolve it. Now, these tool boxes are NO LONGER AVAILABLE. They make them in India, and they are either poor quality or just don't fit. Too hit and miss. A second hand one in terrible condition (worse than mine was) sells for $300 - $400 AUD.
So I HAD to save mine.
Evapo-Rust was safe, and can be left as long as you like, as it DOES NOT DISSOLVE BASE METAL.
The greatest point to remember is that Evapo-Rust saturates during use, and it does not convect / self-circulate. So, it will turn black (in areas close to the rust surface) as it absorbs rust, and then stays there against the surface / will not absorb any more. Once saturated, it is no longer of any use = dispose of it.
The best way is to either "stir / circulate" the liquid, or (in a corner where the liquid is "black" and thus saturated) drawn off with a syringe and disposed of / allow unsaturated liquid to continue to work.
See the attached pictures. Before and after:
That tool box had sat on that bike for 40 years and had bad chrome with rust pitting under it, rust inside.
Evaopo-Rust cleaned it enough for priming and painting.
I also used it on a Triumph Stag bumper (very hard to get, they make replacements which are nowhere near as good as the original) to remove rust from the rear of it before preservation. The outside is chrome, but the inside barely treated, so they rust.
The Evapo-Rust removes the inside surface rust, with no damage to existing chrome.
It is a brilliant product.
You'll need a hot work permit in Australia whenever your work involves open flames (eg welding, brazing and soldering), produces sparks or generates hot surfaces with enough heat to ignite flammable materials.
This applies to situations beyond just welding and includes using equipment like:
General rule: If you are unsure whether your welding work qualifies for a hot work permit, it is always better to err on the side of caution and obtain one.
Exception: You typically won't need a permit if your hot work is done within a designated hot work area specifically designed for such activities, like a welding bay in a workshop. The principle is that these areas should already have built-in safety measures in place to begin with.
Key considerations:
The primary purpose of a hot work permit is to:
On a practical note, it’s simply because nobody wants serious fires like this to happen ever again.
The permit is issued by a designated permit officer in the business / worksite who is authorised by the business to do so, and they typically go by these roles:
Alternatively, they could also be someone in the business / site with these titles:
The designated permit officer is responsible for -- and has the necessary training and expertise to -- ensuring that hot work permits are issued per the relevant regulations and procedures to ensure the safety of workers and the public.
Note: In general, the designated permit officer should be extensively knowledgeable about the site, safe work practices, and risk assessment especially pertaining to hot work. Keep in mind that specific roles and titles may vary per business / worksite, so make sure to check with your management.
To get a hot work permit, a risk assessment is first done to identify hazards and put safety measures in place. Then, a permit is filled out with details and authorized by the designed person in the business. Workers involved must be aware of the permit and follow safety precautions.
Specifically, the business should:
1. Identify the hot work activity: Hot work includes activities such as welding, cutting and grinding that produce hot metal, radiant heat and sparks.
2. Assign responsibility: Ensure a competently trained and responsible individual who serves as the designated permit officer (as described in the previous section) will manage the permitting process, and that he / she completely understands associated risks involved and that the risk mitigation measures are in place.
Important:
3. Prepare the worksite: The designated permit officer and all involved personnel and contractors should ensure the work area is free from combustible materials prior to commencing actual work. It is ideal to install welding screens or other protective devices to prevent welding flash to onlookers, pedestrians and bystanders.
4. Document the hot work permit: The designated permit officer should ensure the hot work permit includes essential information such as:
5. Monitor and review: Regularly monitor the hot work permit to ensure all hot work activities are conducted according to the regulations and requirements.
6. Inspect post-work and sign off: The designated permit officer must inspect the hot work area after the fact and sign off that it is free of fire hazards (eg no smoldering embers etc) and safe for normal work resumption.
Additional reminders:
Here is the gist of their action items list (of key considerations in the hot work permitting process):
Your hot work permit should also cover:
It should also account for training for all site personnel and contractors regarding:
Important: The designated permit officer should inspect the site for safety and sign off on the permit to complete the process.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>(Taken from this post by Champion Parts. Republished with permission. Edited for point of view and relevance.)
High tensile bolts are used in applications where durability is critical to firmly and safely hold components together.
A common example would be in an automotive system, where high tensile bolts:
Getting this right is important for obvious reasons: safety, reliability and the longevity of components.
This excerpt from Champion Parts might point you in the right direction.
Disclaimer: AIMS is not an expert in fastener design, therefore the information provided herein should not be treated as professional advice. The official source is cited.
The markings on the head face of a bolt can be confusing. How do we specify the grades between each pattern and make sure you get the correct size?
1. Check if there are any head markings. They will indicate if the bolt is metric or imperial and the grade/class.
2. Look at the threaded part of the bolt/setscrew and identify if it is a fine thread or coarse thread. Using a vernier, measure the diameter of the threaded part of the bolt/setscrew, as shown in Fig. 1.
3. Use a pitch gauge to determine the pitch of the thread, as shown in Fig. 2.
4. Using a ruler, measure the length of the fastener from under the head, as shown in Fig. 3.
A popular option to avoid corrosion is zinc plating, where a metal bond is formed between the steel and the zinc, which serves as a protective layer.
Zinc-plated fasteners are ideally used in dry environments. Otherwise, stainless steel fasteners may be a better option.
The colour of the fastener is determined by a pigment additive during the electroplating process. That is why some fasteners appear to be gold (yellow-ish) or silver (clear) in colour.
They do it just to enhance the appearance of the fastener.
It does not have anything to do with durability.
Feedback: Ken H from Perth shared his experience with high-tensile bolts:
"So many people doing restoration have the "stainless is the be all end all" ethos. Definitely not so.
I am on my second old motorcycle rebuild (previous 1963 BSA, this one 1974 Triumph). All the low load bearing fasteners are/will be stainless ("tinware", ie mudguards etc), but anything load bearing/frame/eng mount - all high tensile, they HAVE to be.
In the late 70's the [ship 1 redacted for confidentiality] had a new radar antenna fitted. The rest of the fleet had the same radar fitted, but kept the old antenna; [ship 2 redacted for confidentiality] got the "new/updated" one.
These antennas weigh a couple of tons, are over 20 feet wide, and are subject to extreme stress as the ship rolls. At the mast head, they are at "the end of the pendulum", so stresses exaggerated. You can see one at Darling harbour aboard museum ship HMAC Vampire.
They are held down by a base ring with about 20 in number 3/4 high tensile bolts.
I have been on ships and gone through cyclones with those same antennas. They are designed for it.
Anyway, the [ship 2 redacted for confidentiality] had the new antenna for about a month; when she returned after going through a storm, and it just 'sheered off the bolts and fell over the side.' She had to go back to the old one. The story was they used stainless bolts instead of the high tensile that always required painting. Either that, or incorrect tensile grade/not torqued to correct amount.
Luckily it fell away from the flight deck - no one hurt.
But yes - high tensile bolt selection IS a big deal."
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>You've probably been in a sticky situation where your glued pieces just keep on falling apart. As a reminder, it’s worth remembering that:
Speaking of adhesives, it’s hard to talk about the best brands without mentioning LOCTITE®. As a casual user, you have probably used their products to “build things and fix stuff”.
LOCTITE® is not just for casual DIYers who work on home projects. The big guys in various industries use it, too, even for tough niche applications.
In this article, we’ve compiled a host of content (mostly from Henkel) to help you choose the right LOCTITE® product for your intended use. You’ll find information about (and links to):
Below is a visual guide from Henkel (and a PDF copy) that shows which LOCTITE® product to use for each part of your pump.
You can buy most of those products from our online store:
According to this LOCTITE® selector guide:
Instant adhesives are ideal for bonding small- to medium-size parts with close-fitting, smooth surfaces. They provide fast cure speeds and excellent bond strengths to a wide variety of substrates, including hard-to-bond materials.
You can use them for (almost) anything from general purpose repairs to specialty high-performance assembly applications.
Product |
Description |
Best used |
LOCTITE 401TM Surface-Insensitive, Medium Viscosity |
A fast-setting, surface-insensitive instant adhesive that provides high shear strength |
When you need a fast fix and high strength on a wide range of materials, including difficult-to-bond substrates |
LOCTITE 406TM Low Viscosity |
A fast-curing instant adhesive that is ideal for bonding plastics and elastomeric materials where very fast fixturing is required |
When you need to bond plastic and rubber |
LOCTITE 454TM Non-drip Gel |
A general purpose, non-drip gel, instant adhesive |
For overhead and vertical applications |
LOCTITE 460TM Low-Odor, Low-Bloom, Low Viscosity |
A low-viscosity, low-odor, low-bloom instant adhesive that rapidly bonds a wide range of materials |
To minimise bondline aesthetic or odor concerns |
LOCTITE 480TM Toughened, Low Viscosity |
A toughened, fast-curing instant adhesive that is ideal for bonding metal to metal, rubber or magnets, particularly in humid environments |
For heavy-duty bonding |
LOCTITE 3090TM Two-Component Gel |
A unique, two-part instant adhesive that provides gap filling in excess of 0.10" for a wide range of materials |
To fill large gaps |
In addition, you can use accelerators and primers:
Below are snapshots taken directly from this handy PDF by Henkel. It shows us which LOCTITE® product(s) -- and recommended primers, in some instances – to use for what application, taking into consideration operating temperatures.
When choosing an instant adhesive, it’s important to know the different types and what they’re specifically designed for:
For heavy-duty and industrial applications, it’s best to refer to this list by Henkel, where they discuss these adhesives in greater detail:
Threadlocking adhesives, such as LOCTITE® threadlockers, are formulated to “eliminate the potential of loosening, leakage and failure by locking your fasteners in place”, according to this article from Henkel.
They really make a big difference, as you’ll see in this video:
More threadlocker reminders from Henkel’s article:
LOCTITE® threadlockers come in three strength grades:
Speaking of LOCTITE® threadlockers, here are some myth-busters from Henkel themselves:
Finally, here’s an oldie-but-goodie guide to help you "Do It Right” when it comes to using LOCTITE® maintenance products.
Feedback: Ken H from Perth shared his experience with Loctites:
"With a weapons radar fitting (gun and missile radar direction systems) background, I used all the Loctites at work, and now have a dozen different sorts in the garage that I use every day. I mainly use it in garage now (retired, 8 vehicles, mostly old ones, 1963 through to current) and it is essential; but I still have a full kit (ex work) and all the charts.
I use mostly 243 (old bikes, use on everything, currently rebuilding 1974 Triumph Trident motorcycle) 262 (engine drive train components), bearing mount (two grades, yellow and blue) , and have/use three grades of Loctite gasket. The primer (7471) is essential for oily engine "critical" components, like cam sprockets/tensioners that will never bond otherwise. My Triumph Stag and Dolomite Sprint have tiny chain tensioner bolts that have to be exact tension, (must be tight, but easy to snap) and if they loosen = catastrophic damage. Primer and 243 ONLY thing that works.
The greens should come with a warning, as if they bond properly, the average person will never get them off if they don't "get it" and use by mistake. Mainly for earthmoving/mining applications, so not mainstream.
Again, Loctite is essential to anyone serious about fastener retaining.
With skills in fitting/mech fields declining/becoming "shallower" (most just replace whole units/next higher assembly) the more info available the better.
So again, thanks for the info, and good that you provide it."
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>We’ve seen it in the news:
The Bureau of Meteorology (BoM) forecasts that from December 2023 to February 2024:
You’re probably even feeling the heat in your skin. It’s not even officially summer but it somehow already feels like it. Nevertheless, business must go on. The risks of dehydration, heat-related illness and heat stress shouldn’t be taken for granted, especially during the hot weeks ahead.
Disclaimer: AIMS is not a work health and safety (WHS) expert, therefore the information provided herein should not be treated as legal or professional advice. This article only aims to compile resources that may be helpful to your business. Official sources of information are cited. No copyright infringement is intended.
Maintaining a normal body temperature is crucial for the health and safety of workers. When the body works excessively to cool down or begins to overheat, it can be vulnerable to heat-related illnesses.
When we say working in heat, we mean any work that involves “in or near heat”. That applies to any work performed indoors and outdoors, regardless of time of the day and season (although we can agree that the risks are higher during summer).
According to Safe Work Australia (SWA) in their Guide for managing the risks of working in heat:
Moreover, the guide lists the common primary symptoms of heat-related illness as:
There are also secondary symptoms that should also be taken seriously:
Note: How hot a worker feels will be different in every situation, depending on the individual worker, the work they are doing and the environment in which they are working.
Exposure to high temperatures during work poses significant hazards and can lead to harm for employees. As a business, it's your responsibility to ensure the safety of both your workforce and the workplace, mitigating the risks associated with working in heat.
Moreover, safety should be a priority across the board, as everyone is expected to take all reasonably practicable measures to eliminate -- or at least minimise -- the risks of working in heat.
PCBUs (Persons Conducting a Business or Undertaking) and officers are obligated to take reasonable measures to ensure that employees, volunteers and anyone else involved in the business are not exposed to health and safety hazards. In relation to working in heat, they must ensure:
We covered the WHS laws in this article, and specifically the PCBU compliance to ‘primary duty of care’ in this section (in relevance to WHS Act Section 19).
As for workers and ‘other persons at the workplace’, they have a duty to take reasonable care of their own health and safety and to not adversely affect the health and safety of other persons. They are expected to comply with reasonable instructions, as far as they are reasonably able, and cooperate with reasonable health and safety policies or procedures that have been notified to them.
The section ‘Managing the risks of heat’ of the Guide for managing the risks of working in heat (page 7) provides comprehensive guidelines to manage the risks associated with working in heat. It outlines a structured approach that involves consultation, identification, assessment, control and review of the risks.
Here is a breakdown:
Approach |
How |
Example |
Elimination |
Remove the risk if reasonably practicable. |
Cancel work tasks or wait for hot conditions to pass. |
Substitution |
Replace hazardous practices with safer alternatives. |
Have workers do work in a cooler environment. |
Isolation |
Physically separate the source of harm from workers. |
Separate workers from hot machinery. Use physical barriers (ie cones and fencing) to ensure it is clear where the hot machinery is located. |
Engineering controls |
Implement control measures that are physical in nature, including a mechanical device or process. |
Set up physical measures such as shade tents, cooling systems and industrial fans, insulation and air flow improvements. |
Administrative controls |
Implement procedures, training, supervision and emergency plans. |
Schedule more physically demanding activities to be completed in the cooler parts of the day. Or, if possible, ensure workers are not working alone so there is always a buddy that can call for help should the unfortunate happen. |
PPE |
Use suitable safety wearables, considering their limitations and potential impacts on heat-related risks. |
Modify uniforms or dress codes so workers can wear cooler and more breathable clothing (without compromising safety) |
Acclimatization |
Consider the body’s adaptation to heat. |
Consult safety professionals, such as an occupational hygienist, to help you implement relevant safety measures. |
Hydration |
Ensure access to cool drinking water and electrolyte replacement therapy when needed. |
Make sure hydrating beverages such as Sqwincers (kept cold in portable coolers) are always available on work sites for all workers. |
The emphasis lies on a thorough assessment of factors affecting heat exposure, implementing a range of control measures, providing appropriate training, monitoring workers and continuously reviewing the effectiveness of measures taken.
According to SWA: “Heat-related illness is a progressive condition and if left untreated it can be fatal. If you think someone has severe heat exhaustion, or heat stroke, you should call an ambulance immediately and perform first aid until an ambulance arrives.”
For the early stages of heat-related illness first aid can often be effective, but you should always seek medical assistance if in doubt, or if the person’s symptoms are severe.
Symptom |
Signs |
First aid (“them” refers to the worker) |
Dehydration |
|
|
Heat rash
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fainting |
|
|
Heat stroke |
*Not all heat-induced signs may be present |
Call 000 emergency services immediately. Follow the DRSABCD action plan. Move the worker where it’s cooler, less humid and has better air circulation. Loosen tight clothing (and remove unnecessary clothes). Cooling methods (if safe):
Alternatives if no cold bath:
Supportive care:
|
Important: Workers taking specific medications, having pre-existing medical conditions or prior heat-related illnesses are at a heightened risk of experiencing heat-related issues. This influences the appropriate approach to their treatment. It's crucial to inform employees about this risk and, as much as feasibly possible, closely monitor them for any signs of heat-related illness.
More resources from Safe Work Australia:
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>(Taken from Advance Anti-Slip Surfaces. Republished with permission. Edited for point of view, recency and relevance.)
Slips, trips, stumbles, tumbles and falls are the highest frequency safety risks in most industries and workplaces today.
The severity of each possible hazard can depend on the industry, the situation and the person, but one small slip, stumble, trip, tumble or fall has the potential to cause a serious incident or injury or, in the worst-case scenario, even a fatality. These can lead to the possibility of legal liability, lost production time, and lengthy workplace absences.
Businesses also have a duty of care for the well-being of their employees, contractors, visitors and customers, which could mean serious consequences if one of them were injured while ascending or descending a ladder in your workplace.
When it comes to health and safety, there should be no shortcuts. That is why it is essential that an anti-slip hazard control measure is recommended throughout all locations, and in every facility.
In this article, let's focus on ladders.
Ladders are indispensable tools in various settings, everywhere from commercial, industrial workplaces to mobile machinery and equipment. Nevertheless, they come with inherent risks, especially when used in slippery conditions. Since they are commonplace in various industries, and their proper maintenance and safety features are crucial to prevent accidents and injuries.
Installing non-slip ladder rung cover products will (1) maximise pedestrian safety and (2) prevent many incidents and injuries that hurt people, reduce productivity and increase costs.
That's where Advance Anti-Slip ladder rung covers come into play. Their rung covers are designed to provide an additional layer of safety, helping to reduce the risk of slips and falls when climbing ladders. They also meet Australian safety standards, such as the AS 1657-2018 for fixed platforms, walkways, stairways, and ladders.
Non-slip ladder rung covers are essential because they:
For a variety of reasons, ladders can often become hazardous. Anti-slip ladder rung covers are an effective way to provide extra grip to the rungs where people tread most frequently.
A half-round ladder rung cover just doesn’t provide enough non-slip surface area on the ladder rung. The heel of a person’s boot can catch lower on the rung cover which could almost turn a half round rung cover into a secondary trip hazard.
You'll often see ladder rung covers in industrial and workplace applications, such as in:
Their performance has been tested even in some of the world's toughest environments, including:
Advance Anti-Slip Surfaces' Class 1, metal-backed and non-slip ladder rung covers provide a full 270 degrees of slip protection, exactly where it is needed the most. They are available in circular and square styles that snap fit easily over the rung to provide a long-lasting, highly visible surface to climb on.
Their performance has been tested in some of the world's toughest environments, including offshore drilling platforms, marine vessels, in greasy food processing facilities, dusty manufacturing plants, automotive refinishing operations, and power generation facilities.
Advance Anti-Slip Surfaces is an Australian-owned manufacturer and supplier of an extensive range of class-one metal-backed anti-slip ladder rung cover safety products.
These durable non-slip rung covers resist corrosion and impacts, providing years of anti-slip protection in a variety of environments, from offshore drilling platforms to commercial applications. They are available in circular and square profiles to easily fit over existing ladder rungs.
Advance Anti-Slip Surfaces’ non-slip products comply with national and international standards for quality, performance and safety.
They are also backed by an extensive warranty.
Shop for Advance Anti-Slip ladder rung covers now.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>Are you working in a caustic environment where corrosion is an important factor in material selection? Are you concerned about rust forming on structural parts and fasteners due to a wet or moist environment?
If so, then fasteners made of stainless steel may be the answer to your problem.
Many people ask us these questions:
We hope this article gives you a basic understanding of stainless steel and the best choice for your intended use, especially when it comes to fasteners.
(We also updated it to cover some common misconceptions about stainless steel in general, courtesy of our friends at Hobson.)
Stainless steel is a low carbon alloy with at least 10.5% chromium, as well as other alloying elements such as nickel and molybdenum, which enhance the anti-corrosive properties of the material. At or above this level of chromium, a layer of complex chrome-oxide forms on the surface which prevents oxygen atoms from penetrating the steel, thus preventing the formation of iron oxide (rust).
The chrome-oxide layer is what makes the stainless steel "stain less".
Rust may still form on the surface and in crevices, especially when you choose the wrong grade of stainless steel for the application.
Put simply, using stainless steel does not guarantee that minor surface rust will not appear.
It is actually quite common, particularly in harsh environments, to see “tea stains” on the surface of stainless steel, where a small amount of surface rust has formed.
When it comes to stainless steel fasteners, it is critical that the rust does not penetrate the body/structure, to maintain its integrity.
According to Australian fastener manufacturer Hobson Engineering: If rust occurs within a few days or weeks, it is almost certainly due to carbon steel contamination from fabrication or the local environment. Longer initiation periods arise from:
Stainless steel comes in various types, based on the ratio of the alloying elements and on the molecular structure of the material.
The four fundamental types of stainless steel are:
(For more information on the family of stainless steel, please refer to The Atlas Steels Technical Handbook of Stainless Steels.)
The grade determines the corrosion resistance, durability, temperature resistance and other essential characteristics of the material.
Different grades have different ratios of chromium, nickel, molybdenum and carbon.
Stainless steel grades define how the product will perform in each environment; hence it is very important to know which grade is appropriate for your intended use.
The typical grades you'll encounter in your search are the 200 and 300 series. The 300 series is the most common. Specifically, 304 and 316 (also known as A2 and A4 grades, respectively).
Grade 304 (UNS 30400) is the most common and widely used of the 300 series. It has 18-20% chromium and 8-12% nickel. It is sometimes called the standard 18/8 austenitic stainless steel.
It is resistant to oxidation and corrosion and is best used in food preparation and processing environments, and when aesthetics is important. This is the one commonly used in general workshop and household stainless steel hardware.
Benefits:
Commonly used in:
Grade 316 (UNS 31600) is also referred to as, in the vernacular, “marine grade stainless steel”, although the term is not a recognised industry standard. It has the addition of 2-3% molybdenum. The chromium content is lowered to 16-18%, and the nickel content is raised to 10-14%.
This change in the chromium-nickel ratio and the addition of molybdenum significantly increases the metal’s resistance to “salt” corrosion.
This makes 316 a very heat-resistant stainless steel with superior corrosion resistance as compared to other chromium-nickel steels when exposed to many types of solutions such as seawater and brine.
It may cost a little more, but that translates to savings in the long run, especially if your fasteners and structures are going to be used outdoors.
It also has greater resistance to many chemicals than Grade 304.
Benefits:
Best used in:
Important: While 316 is often referred to as “marine grade”, it simply means that it will remain bright and shiny, provided it is maintained properly. It may still rust (especially in crevices) when exposed to seawater, which has about 20 times the chloride level 316 is designed to withstand.
Stainless steel has these following characteristics that -- depending on your intended purpose – may or may not be to your benefit.
*Versus other common metals
Note: Higher tensile strength fasteners may not be available or, if they are, can be very, very expensive. For more information, here’s a related article discussing high tensile bolts.
The most common grade is 304 stainless steel, but there will be certain situations where 316 is your best option.
If you work in an environment where there is exposure to chlorine in the atmosphere and other corrosive substances, choose 316 stainless steel.
Just keep in mind that, while it’s more rust-resistant than 304, it is more brittle because of its chemical make-up.
Elsewhere, you may opt for 304 since it also serves the purpose of basic corrosion protection.
In a nutshell:
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>It goes without saying that doing physical activities outdoors can be very taxing on the body, regardless of age, especially in the middle of the summer sun. The same is true when you’re working in a hot area (eg. in a bakery) or with equipment that involves heat (eg. metal forging and welding).
Moreover, the dangers of on-the-job dehydration are real, as detailed in this white paper.
Since we’re an industrial supplies store, we thought adding workplace hydration products would be a good idea. So, ever since we started selling Sqwinchers, we were asked these questions.
In this article, we answer some of them:
Disclaimer: AIMS is not a health expert, therefore the information provided herein should not be treated as medical advice.
According to the white paper, the obvious symptoms are thirst and excessive perspiration / sweating, but the more subtle signs of mild to moderate dehydration include:
In addition, there are a handful of key factors that contribute to dehydration:
While the risk of dehydration increases for people doing strenuous activities under those conditions, that doesn’t mean you won’t easily get dehydrated when you work indoors or during colder weather.
Yes, hydration (especially in the workplace) is not just a summer issue, as Sqwincher explained in this Safeopedia article.
That depends on the type of activity you are doing and the environment in which you work. Dehydration can also be a constant risk for people who work indoors, even during winter (but especially during summer). For instance, factory workers, restaurant kitchen workers and laundry service workers spend many working hours a day in hot environments.
While humble drinking water will always be your “universal” thirst-quencher, there are some merits to choosing a Sqwincher over it. It is especially true if you need to re-hydrate quickly because what makes Sqwincher special is its formulation, which makes it easier and faster to be absorbed by the body than plain H2O.
That means it’s quicker to replenish the electrolytes you lost from all the sweating and hard work.
We saw a page claiming that their “formulation is similar” and that "Sqwincher products do contain more electrolytes than Gatorade."
This press release from 2002 quoted the founder Mack Howard as saying: “It’s got half the sodium and twice the potassium of Gatorade. That’s one of the main things we’ve played on throughout the years.” We’ll take his word for it, although some of you will take it “with a grain of salt”. (Sorry!!)
We don’t think their “rivalry” is up there with Ferrari-vs-Lamborghini and Mustang-vs-Camaro, but surely both brands get the job done when it comes to hydration.
We’ve tried both products, and really, as with many things, it’s a matter of personal taste.
That really depends on how you define “energy drink”, but if you refer to this Wikipedia entry based on Sqwincher’s website, their products are technically classified as “electrolyte beverages”. Regardless of what you want to call it, we think their witty slogan says it best: “Hydration That Works (At Work).
(We think that’s how you’re supposed to read it.)
Again, the answer here can be very subjective depending on one’s personal taste, but here are things to consider:
Speaking of caffeine, all Sqwincher beverages that you can buy from our store are caffeine-free. Most of them are low in sodium and gluten-free, too.
A lot of Sqwincher products list sugar as an ingredient, but we sell sugar-free options such as these convenient Qwik Sticks and Squeeze Pops.
It’s generally not advisable to do so.
We found no conclusive research suggesting you can’t drink more than one serving in a day, although it’s best to err on the side of caution, especially if you have pre-existing conditions that require extra care.
That’s all for now. We’ll keep on updating this list as we receive more questions.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
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When it comes to slip resistance compliance, always err on the side of caution.
If these work health and safety (WHS) statistics fail to convince you to install anti-slip solutions where your staff and customers walk, perhaps your legal duties will.
Yes, as a business owner, you have a general duty of care. Put simply, you have WHS responsibilities.
As we’ve emphasized in our slip resistance compliance guide:
Slipping, tripping and falling are risks that can be associated with steps and stairs, and can lead to serious injuries. Under the WHS Act, the employer has a ‘duty of care’ to provide and maintain a safe and healthy workplace – all potential hazards must be identified, the associated risks assessed and then controls introduced to eliminate or reduce those risks as far as practicable.
(Make sure to get your free copy of the guide here.)
Your responsibility extends to making sure your customers, visitors, and any contractors are safe at your business premises.
It is prescribed by Australian Standard AS1428.1 and a mandatory compliance requirement under the Building Code of Australia.
Disclaimer: AIMS is not a WHS law expert, therefore the information provided here should be treated as general in nature and not be treated as specific, legal or professional advice. Our article about WHS laws only aims to compile resources that may be helpful to your business. Official sources of information are cited.
Standards Australia has a compilation of the prescribed minimum slip resistance requirements for different flooring surfaces.
Here are the links for your convenience:
You can refer to this comprehensive fact sheet from Safe Work Australia (SWA) when trying to identify what may possibly cause a slip or trip accident.
For your convenience, we’ve simplified SWA’s list below.
For more information, be sure to read our article about how you can prevent slips, trips and falls in the workplace.
SWA’s fact sheet has a quick guide to help you figure out which kinds of surfaces get slippery in what situation:
Floor Type | Characteristics |
Concrete |
Rounded aggregate can be slippery when concrete wears. Interior surface is often sealed to prevent dusting and absorption of liquids - this can increase slipperiness. |
Terrazzo |
Gives good appearance and wears well but can be slippery when wet, when excess polish is used or when dusty. |
Quarry tiles, ceramic tiles |
Low water absorption and good resistance to chemicals. Slippery in wet conditions if smooth, but can be moulded with aggregate or profiles to improve slip resistance - special cleaning equipment may then be required. |
Glazed ceramic tiles |
Slippery when wet, particularly with soapy water. Some slip resistance treatments available, but preferable not to install these tiles on floors. |
Vinyl tiles and sheet |
Easy to clean. Use sheet form where frequent washing is required to avoid water getting under tiles. Slippery when wet, particularly if polished, however slip resistant vinyls are available. These have aggregates moulded in. Thicker and softer vinyls are more slip resistant than hard ones. |
Cork |
Must be sealed to prevent absorption of oil and water, but may then be slippery when wet. |
Steel plate |
Tends to be slippery when wet or oily, particularly when worn. |
Rubber |
Less effective in wet conditions. Must be fixed down well at the edges and joints or will cause a trip hazard. |
Plastic matting |
Interlocking PVC extrusions give good drainage and slip resistance. Hose down or steam clean. |
Carpet |
Carpet has a shorter life than hard floor surfaces, but it can be a cost-effective solution. Installations should be wall to wall, to avoid the hazard of a trip on edges. When used in small local areas, such as at entrances, it should be installed in a recess in the floor. Alternatively, it should be rubber-backed and with hardwearing tapered edges. Trolleys can be harder to push on carpet, but if larger wheels are fitted and the carpet does not have a deep pile, this is not a serious problem. |
Fiberglass gratings |
This product can have grit particles moulded into upper surface to provide very good slip resistance. Fluids are quickly drained away. |
Standard anti-slip products are installed in relatively familiar pedestrian locations:
You’ve probably even seen anti-slip products during your daily routine and haven't really noticed them placed on:
They’re even on infrastructure projects, such as:
Anti-slip products are also widely used in various areas in civil aviation and the agriculture sector.
We’re guessing there’s a big chance you’ll need an anti-slip solution for your business.
In the meantime, here are some easy things that you can do quickly to prevent slips:
The safe surfaces industry is one of the most important sectors in the safety market for protecting workers, visitors, contractors and all pedestrians from incident and injury due to a slip, trip, stumble, tumble or a fall.
Anti-slip products come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, colours, coarseness grades and are required to achieve a multitude of different results, such as:
Primarily, you will consider the level of safety that the anti-slip product can provide. There are instances where indoors is harsher and has more slip hazards, especially in workplaces where floors often get liquid spills. In this case, the level of coarseness will make all the difference.
Consider the types of pedestrians that need to be kept safe from a possible slip, stumble, trip, tumble, falter or fall.
Grade |
Generally used in |
Barefoot – 80 ISO (86) |
Areas where people may walk around in bare feet or in open-toed footwear, and there is no excess buildup of dirt, dust or debris, such as in child care centres, playground areas, picnic grounds and community pools
|
Fine – 46 ISO (86) |
|
Industrial – 24 ISO (86) |
Commercial or light industrial applications where an increased level of safety is required, such as at educational institutions, walkways and ramps for people with a disability, some residential applications and public transport infrastructure |
Heavy Duty – 20 ISO (86) |
Industrial applications where workers and visitors need a superior level of safety when traversing all types of pedestrian access areas, due to the possibility of an excess of dirt, dust, debris or spillage of product in trafficked areas around the workplace |
Offshore – 16 ISO (86) |
Applications where there is a high accumulation of, or the presence of carbon greases, heavy oils, or increased spillages on a stairway, walkway, platform or landing need the highest level of safety surface |
When installed to manufacturer guidance, standard metal-backed anti-slip products would generally have beads of silicone adhesive applied to bond the metal to the substrate. That, in addition to a layer of laminated material and resin coating, makes the product safe from potential electrical/static conduction, according to Advance Antislip Solutions.
According to Advance Anti-Slip Surfaces, their main range of anti-slip, metal-backed products are made from high quality, BlueScope sheet products such as Colorbond®, Galvabond®, as well as 5052 aluminium and 316 stainless steel. They also offer anti-slip tapes.
The sealed surface is unlikely to corrode or rust. It’s because the foundation elements are machine pressed, sheer cut from sheet steel, and the edges are coated and sealed to protect the metal.
Applied anti-slip floor coating and slip-resistant coating products have their place in the safe surfaces industry, especially where there are extremely large square metreage areas that need to be made safe for pedestrians. They are initially very effective at preventing slips and falls; however (over time and with lots of machine cleaning), they will wear away and need resurfacing at regular intervals. They also need a lot of time to dry before pedestrians can access the area.
They are resistant to most solvents, petroleum products and acid solutions. High concentrations of chemical, alkali, acid, solvent or other liquid contaminant (that may be harmful to humans even when wearing safety boots with slip-resistant soles) could have an effect on the product’s hardened resin coating. Although so far, we haven’t come across an instance where the products have succumbed to such a liquid contaminant attack.
You can use a firm bristle brush/broom and mops to clean them. You can even spray them with pressurized water, too (if that’s part of your housekeeping SOP). Most readily available surfactant-based detergents can clean the non-slip surface well enough, and most diluted cleaning chemicals clean the anti-slip surface without affecting its integrity.
Avoid acid-based cleaning chemicals with high concentrations of acidic components.
You can choose from our standard colour range chart. The most popular is Safety Yellow. We also offer “higher visibility” photo-luminescent (glow in the dark) Safety Yellow, Nano Green and Safety Red.
Relocating or repositioning a previously installed metal-backed anti-slip product is possible if it is removed from its existing location without sustaining any damage. If you intend to reposition them on a similar surface, there should be no potential issues, although a quick check with us to confirm the details might be wise.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
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Castors (or ‘casters’) make it easy to move things around. You usually see them in an industrial setting installed on your heavy equipment and material handling tools, such as:
Moreover, there are models designed for use on hospital beds and medical equipment, such as these examples from Colson, EasyRoll and Rhombus. There are even light-duty ones for light furniture such as these ones from MoveIt.
Unlike regular wheels, castors are different because:
Basically, anything that needs to be moved easily and efficiently will likely have some trusty castors beneath it. They are generally sturdy, but there will be signs when it’s time to replace them.
So, it’s time to buy new castors. These factors are crucial for ensuring smooth movement and safety for your intended application:
Visible damage:
Performance:
Usage:
Manufacturer recommendations:
By being proactive about castor maintenance and replacement, you can prevent accidents and extend the life of your equipment.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
]]>In this article, we answer these questions:
Here are the most common ones:
AS/NZS 1764 provides the overarching framework for welding safety in Australia, including requirements for risk assessment, hazard control and worker training. Specifically:
Other relevant standards:
According to SWA’s Model Code of Practice on Welding Processes (published July 2020, that is the most recent version to date), businesses can manage the risks associated with welding by implementing these control measures wherever possible:
Important: Administrative controls and PPE are reactive and do not eliminate the hazard itself, and they heavily depend on people to follow rules and wear the right gear.
Here is a more complete list of safety wearables on top of the examples we provided above:
Pro tip: You can also use anti-spatters to, well, reduce spatter and get cleaner welds.
In January 2024, Safe Work Australia (SWA) announced that “Work Health and Safety Ministers have agreed to an immediate reduction to the workplace exposure standard (WES) for welding fumes (not otherwise classified) has been reduced from an 8-hour time weighted average (TWA) of 5 mg / m3 to 1 mg / m3.”
According to SafeWork NSW, in 2017 the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), a part of the World Health Organization, found enough evidence to declare welding fumes a definite cause of cancer. They also classified UV radiation from welding as a cancer-causing agent for the first time.
Welding fumes are full of particles you obviously don’t want to inhale:
You don’t want to deal with these health problems, especially #4 onwards which have long-term negative effects:
Pro tip: Refer to this informative fact sheet (with a snapshot below) by The Cancer Council to learn more about the occupational cancer risks of welding:
Note: The specific type of welding process, metals involved and ventilation in the workplace all influence the risk level. So do individual factors like genetics and smoking habits that make some people more susceptible to the carcinogenic effects of welding fumes.
Arc eye or flash burns, also known as photokeratitis, can range from mildly uncomfortable to extremely painful and potentially dangerous.
It’s also sometimes referred to as welder’s flash, and it is often caused by the bright light and UV rays from welding, so make sure to wear welding goggles at the minimum.
According to a Queensland Health Emergency Department fact sheet, it feels like having grit in your eyes with the following symptoms:
Better Health Channel by Victoria’s Department of Health indicates that treatment could involve:
Important: While mild cases get better on their own, severe ones need immediate medical attention to prevent complications like temporary vision loss or infection.
That heavily depends on your role, but always keep in mind that safety is always a shared responsibility.
Employers and Persons Conducting Business Undertakings (PCBUs)
Workers
We compiled these links based on current information (as of March 2024):
New South Wales:
Northern Territory:
Queensland:
Western Australia:
South Australia:
Tasmania:
Victoria:
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
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EOQ is the ideal order size that a company should purchase to minimise its total inventory costs. Broadly, these costs include:
Investopedia has a more comprehensive explanation here.
EOQ is a powerful tool for dealing with any kind of supplies, because when you understand the model, its variations and its nuances, you can make better informed inventory decisions.
The basic EOQ formula is as follows:
Where:
*Usually computed annually
Example:
Plugging these values into the formula:
This means the ideal order size to minimise inventory costs is to order 1,000 bearings at a time.
It would be wise to factor in these common ‘variables’ as you determine the optimal EOQ:
For complex scenarios, consider these models / variations to the basic EOQ model:
Aside from minimising inventory costs, EOQ offers several advantages, such as:
Another example:
You run a small machine shop that uses a specific type of industrial lubricant, with the following assumed figures:
Plugging these values into the formula:
This EOQ calculation tells you that the most cost-effective way to manage your lubricant inventory is to order around 90 litres each time you place an order.
In addition:
Inventory management is a delicate balancing act, and it easily gets complicated, the more stock you monitor and the more suppliers you deal with.
(By the way, how many suppliers do you really need? We covered that in this guide to choosing industrial suppliers in Australia, together with the most common challenges in maintaining inventory.)
You need to have enough stock on hand to meet manufacturing demand (internally) and market demand (externally) without having to tie up excessive capital in unused products, especially if they expire, take up warehouse space or have special handling / storage requirements
Here is where EOQ becomes useful.
*Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au.
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