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Stick Welding Guide: SMAW Setup, Electrode Selection, Positions & Australian Standards

What Is Stick Welding? Stick welding — formally known as Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) or Manual Metal Arc Welding (MMAW) — is an arc welding process that uses a consumable flux-coated electrode to join metal. The welder strikes an arc between the electrode tip and the workpiece; the arc melts both the electrode and the parent metal, depositing weld metal while the flux coating burns away to shield the molten pool from the atmosphere. What is stick welding best for? Stick welding is the most portable and forgiving of the common arc processes. It works well outdoors, on dirty or rusty steel, on thicker sections, and in remote or field conditions where gas shielding (used by MIG and TIG) isn't practical. It's the standard process for structural steel, pipework, maintenance and repair, farm and construction work. For Australian hard hat selection and AS/NZS 1801 standards, see our Hard Hat Guide Australia. For more engineering reference charts and selection tables, see our Engineering Reference Charts hub — covering fasteners, bearings, lubrication, measuring, welding and Australian standards. Need bossweld? Browse the AIMS range at bossweld. Stick welding — properly called Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) or Manual Metal Arc (MMA) — is the welding process most Australian welders learn first. A flux-coated electrode, a power source, an electrode holder, a work clamp, and you can join just about any common steel. No gas bottle, no wire feeder, no shielding gas blowing away in the wind. The simplicity is why stick welding still dominates outdoor agricultural, construction, structural and pipeline work despite MIG and TIG taking over much of the workshop market. Quick answer — stick welding essentials What it is: Stick welding = Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) or Manual Metal Arc (MMA) — same process, three names. Uses a flux-coated electrode held in an electrode holder, no gas bottle, no wire feeder. Electrode by job: E6013 = general purpose, easy arc, learner default · E7018 = low-hydrogen, structural, must be oven-dried · E6010 = deep penetration, pipeline / dirty steel, DCEP only · E7024 = high-deposition, flat fillet welds only Polarity: Most rods (E7018, E6013, E6010) run DCEP (DC positive, electrode +). E7024 and some E6013 run DCEN or AC. Always check the rod packet. Electrode size by metal thickness: 2.5mm rod → 1.5-5mm steel · 3.2mm rod → 4-8mm steel · 4.0mm rod → 6mm+ steel. The catch is technique. Stick welding has the steepest learning curve of the three common arc welding processes. The arc is harder to start, the puddle is harder to read, and the slag covers the bead so you can't see what you're doing in real time. Once mastered, stick is forgiving of dirty material and bad fit-up — but mastering it is a hands-on craft that takes time at the welder. This guide covers the stick welding process from welder selection through electrode choice, polarity, striking the arc, running a bead, reading the puddle, common defects, welding positions, materials beyond mild steel, and the AIMS Bossweld stick welder and electrode range stocked for Australian welders. For the broader MIG/TIG/Stick comparison decision, see our MIG vs TIG vs Stick Guide; for the full electrode brand and classification deep-dive, see our Welding Consumables Guide. The stick welder — inverter vs transformer, DC vs AC — Quick Reference Quick reference for stick welding guide, drawn from the detailed section below. Welder type Output Weight Best for Price band (AU) Transformer AC AC only 30-50 kg Low-cost workshop. Limited to E6013, E7024 AC-rated rods $200-$500 Transformer DC DC (rectified) 40-80 kg Production work, smooth arc $500-$1,500 (less common new) Inverter DC DC only 5-15 kg Modern default. Lightweight, smooth arc, all DC rods. Beginner-friendly $300-$1,500 Inverter AC/DC Switchable AC/DC 10-20 kg Aluminium TIG + stick combined $800-$3,000 Multiprocess inverter (MIG/Stick/TIG) DC, all three processes 15-50 kg Most versatile. Bossweld MST range $700-$6,000+ Engine-driven welder DC, sometimes AC 200-500 kg Site work without mains power. Diesel or petrol engine $3,000-$15,000+ What is stick welding (SMAW/MMA) Stick welding uses a consumable flux-coated electrode (the "stick" or "rod") to create an electric arc between the electrode tip and the workpiece. The arc melts both the workpiece edge and the electrode core, depositing weld metal into the joint. The flux coating burns to produce a shielding gas around the arc and a slag layer over the cooling weld, both protecting the molten metal from atmospheric contamination. The full process name — Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW) — describes the mechanism: the flux SHIELDS the molten METAL ARC. The five common AU names for the same process: Stick welding — the AU/US tradesman's name (most common) SMAW — the AWS/American Welding Society standard name MMA — Manual Metal Arc, the European/UK and AS standard name Arc welding — informal name (technically arc welding includes MIG and TIG too) Electric welding — older AU term, still used by some older tradies Why stick welding still dominates field work: No gas bottle to lug to site. No wire feeder to fail in dust or rain. Wind doesn't blow the shielding away. Works through paint, rust and mill scale (with the right rod). One welder + a 20kg box of rods can weld anywhere with mains or a generator. Outdoor structural, agricultural, mining repair, pipeline and remote-site work is still 80%+ stick. Stick welding equipment overview The four pieces of kit you need to start stick welding: Power source (the "welder") — provides the welding current. Modern AU options: inverter DC, transformer AC, or multiprocess inverter (MIG/Stick/TIG combined) Electrode holder ("stinger") — clamps the electrode and is held by the welder. Insulated handle, spring-loaded jaws Work clamp ("earth clamp") — connects the return circuit to the workpiece. Heavy-duty C-clamp or magnetic style Welding cables — flexible high-current cables connecting holder and clamp to the welder. Sized in mm² (35, 50, 70 mm² common AU sizes) Plus the consumable: flux-coated stick electrodes (rods). And the PPE: welding helmet (auto-darkening shade 9-13), welding gloves, leather apron or jacket, fume mask if working indoors. See Welding Helmet Guide, Welding Eye Protection, and Respirator Guide for PPE specifics. The stick welder — inverter vs transformer, DC vs AC Welder type Output Weight Best for Price band (AU) Transformer AC AC only 30-50 kg Low-cost workshop. Limited to E6013, E7024 AC-rated rods $200-$500 Transformer DC DC (rectified) 40-80 kg Production work, smooth arc $500-$1,500 (less common new) Inverter DC DC only 5-15 kg Modern default. Lightweight, smooth arc, all DC rods. Beginner-friendly $300-$1,500 Inverter AC/DC Switchable AC/DC 10-20 kg Aluminium TIG + stick combined $800-$3,000 Multiprocess inverter (MIG/Stick/TIG) DC, all three processes 15-50 kg Most versatile. Bossweld MST range $700-$6,000+ Engine-driven welder DC, sometimes AC 200-500 kg Site work without mains power. Diesel or petrol engine $3,000-$15,000+ For the modern AU welder, inverter DC is the default choice. The 5 kg inverter that fits in a backpack does what a 50 kg transformer used to do, with a smoother arc that's easier to learn. Multiprocess machines (Bossweld MST series) add MIG and TIG capability so the same welder handles three processes — increasingly the standard for small workshops and on-site repairs. Two key specs to check when buying: Maximum amperage — must match the electrode size you'll run. 180A handles up to 4mm rods on most steel; 250A+ handles 5mm+ rods on heavy plate Duty cycle — percentage of a 10-minute period the welder can run continuously without overheating. 60% duty cycle at rated current is standard for industrial; 30-40% is hobby tier Stick electrodes — the basics Stick electrodes (rods) are the consumable: a steel core wire with a flux coating around it. The core melts to form the weld bead; the flux burns to provide shielding gas, slag formation, and alloy additions. The four most common AU stick electrodes for mild steel: Classification Common AU name Polarity Best for E6013 "General purpose" / GP AC, DCEN, DCEP Beginners. Easy strike. Mild steel up to 6mm. Most forgiving rod E7016 / E7018 "Low hydrogen" / lo-hy DCEP (DC+ on rod) Higher-strength, low-defect work. Pressure pipe, structural. Needs dry storage E6010 "Pipe rod" / cellulose DCEP only Pipeline, root passes, deep penetration. Aggressive arc, beginners struggle E6011 "AC pipe rod" AC, DCEP Like 6010 but runs on AC welders. Cellulose-based E7024 "Iron powder" / drag rod AC, DCEN, DCEP Fast-fill horizontal/flat fillet welds. Self-drag technique For the full electrode classification system, brand selection (Bossweld, WIA, Cigweld), specialist rods (stainless, cast iron, hardfacing) and storage requirements, see our comprehensive Welding Consumables Guide. The lo-hy (E7018) storage rule: Low hydrogen electrodes (E7016, E7018) absorb moisture from the air. Wet rods cause hydrogen-induced cracking in the weld. Once the box is opened, lo-hy rods need to be kept in a heated rod oven (50–150°C) and re-baked if they've been exposed to humidity for more than 4 hours. The "open and use within four hours" rule is the standard. E6013 and E6010 don't have this restriction. Polarity — DCEN, DCEP and AC explained The single most-asked stick welding question after "which rod do I use." Polarity refers to which lead (electrode or work) connects to the positive terminal on a DC welder. Polarity Description Effect on weld Common rods DCEP (DC+ on rod / DCRP — Reverse Polarity) Electrode is POSITIVE; work is negative Deeper penetration, more heat at electrode tip, faster melting of rod E7018, E6010, E6011 (all lo-hy and cellulose rods) DCEN (DC- on rod / DCSP — Straight Polarity) Electrode is NEGATIVE; work is positive Shallower penetration, less heat at rod, faster fill rate E6013, E7024 (preferred), some specialist rods AC Alternating — switches direction 50 times per second (50 Hz) Mid-way penetration. Some rods only run on AC E6013, E6011, E7024 (all AC-rated) The rule of thumb most welders memorise: "if the rod won't run smoothly, swap the polarity." Each electrode classification has a designed polarity range. Running E7018 on DCEN gives a poor arc and porous welds. Running E6013 on DCEP works but the arc is harsher than designed. The numbers in E7018 and E6013 are AWS A5.1 codes: First two digits (60, 70) = tensile strength × 1,000 psi (60ksi, 70ksi) Third digit (1, 2) = welding position (1 = all positions, 2 = flat/horizontal only) Fourth digit = flux coating type and polarity (0 = cellulose DCEP, 3 = rutile, 4 = iron powder, 5/6/8 = lo-hy basic) Striking the arc — scratch start vs tap start The first technical hurdle for new stick welders. The arc starts when the electrode briefly touches the workpiece, completing the circuit, then withdraws to maintain a stable arc gap. Two common starting techniques: Scratch start — drag the electrode tip across the workpiece surface like striking a match, then lift slightly. Best for E6013 and similar rutile rods that ignite easily. Easier for beginners. Tap start — touch the electrode straight down to the work, then lift quickly. Required for E7018 lo-hy rods and most low-hydrogen electrodes. Sticks more often than scratch start while you're learning. The four common arc-start mistakes and their fixes: Problem Cause Fix Rod sticks to the work Lifted too slowly after touch; amperage too low Increase amps 10-20A; lift faster after strike. If stuck, twist rod side-to-side to crack flux loose Arc keeps blowing out Arc length too long Bring electrode closer (arc length = approximately the rod core diameter) Arc won't start at all Cold rod (lo-hy needs warmth); damp flux; bad earth clamp connection Bake lo-hy at 100-120°C 1hr; check earth clamp grips bare metal Arc starts then dies Rod tip dirty / contaminated with old flux Tap rod tip on clean steel to expose fresh metal core; restrike Running a bead — angle, arc length, travel speed The four parameters that determine bead quality: angle, arc length, amperage, and travel speed (the "AAATs" of stick welding). Travel angle — the angle of the electrode along the direction of travel. Stick welding uses a drag angle (the rod points BEHIND the direction you're moving, by 10-15°). Pulling the puddle behind you, not pushing it ahead. Also called "backhand" technique. The opposite of MIG which uses push angle. Work angle — the angle of the electrode relative to the workpiece face. 90° (perpendicular) for flat butt welds; 45° on each side for fillet welds (split the angle between the two plates). Arc length — the gap between the electrode tip and the molten weld puddle. Standard rule: arc length equals the rod core diameter. A 3.2mm rod runs at a 3.2mm arc length. Too short and the rod sticks; too long and the arc blows out, the weld becomes porous. Travel speed — how fast you move the rod along the joint. Right speed produces a bead approximately 2-3× the rod diameter wide. Too fast = thin, narrow bead with undercut. Too slow = wide, bulky bead with excessive penetration. Amperage — by rod diameter: Electrode dia Amperage range Use 2.0 mm 40-80 A Sheet metal, light fab (1.5-3 mm thickness) 2.5 mm 60-110 A Sheet to medium (2-5 mm) 3.2 mm 90-150 A General purpose (3-8 mm) — most common rod 4.0 mm 130-200 A Heavy fab, structural (6-12 mm) 5.0 mm 180-260 A Heavy plate (10 mm+) 6.0 mm 220-340 A Industrial heavy plate (15 mm+) Within each rod range, increase amps for: lower position (vertical-down, overhead), thicker plate, faster travel. Decrease amps for: thinner plate, vertical-up, root passes. Reading the weld puddle The skill that separates beginners from experienced stick welders. The molten weld puddle is what you actually weld — not the electrode, not the joint. Reading the puddle in real time tells you whether amps are right, travel speed is right, and the joint is fusing properly. What experienced welders watch for: Puddle shape — should be roughly oval, slightly elongated in the direction of travel. Round puddle = travel too slow. Pointed/elongated = travel too fast Puddle size — width approximately 2-3× rod diameter. Smaller = amps too low; bigger = amps too high or travel too slow Wetting at the toes — the edges of the puddle should "wet out" and tie smoothly into the parent metal. A sharp transition with a raised lip means insufficient fusion Slag movement — slag floats on top of the puddle and travels behind it. If slag overtakes the puddle, you're going too slow or arc length is too long Sound — a steady "frying bacon" or "ripping cloth" sound means the arc is correct. Hissing, popping, or sputtering means something is off (usually arc length) The forum-validated truth — sound matters. Practical Machinist and Reddit r/Welding consensus: a properly running stick weld sounds like bacon frying or paper ripping. Hissing = arc too long. Popping/spitting = damp rod. Sputtering = wrong polarity. Experienced welders weld by sound as much as by sight. Headphones-off when stick welding. Welding positions — flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead AS/NZS 3992 and AWS D1.1 designate welding positions. Stick welding handles all four; each gets progressively harder. Position Code (groove / fillet) Difficulty Notes Flat (downhand) 1G / 1F Beginner Workpiece flat, weld on top surface. Gravity helps the puddle. Default learning position Horizontal 2G / 2F Intermediate Weld runs horizontally on a vertical face. Puddle wants to sag — control with travel speed and rod angle Vertical (up or down) 3G / 3F Advanced Vertical-up = strong fusion, slower (E7018 standard). Vertical-down = fast fill, less penetration (E6013/E7024) Overhead 4G / 4F Expert Welding upside-down. Lower amps, shorter arc, faster travel. Spatter falls down on you (PPE critical) Position skill is what AWS/AS welder qualification tests certify. A "1G certified" welder can weld flat groove welds; "3G/4G certified" means qualified for all positions including overhead — much higher pay grade. Common stick welding defects Defect Appearance Cause Fix Porosity Holes/pinpricks in the bead Damp electrode (lo-hy especially); contamination on parent metal; arc length too long Re-bake electrodes; clean metal; shorten arc length Slag inclusion Dark spots inside cooled weld; ridge between passes Slag not removed between passes; travel speed too slow allowing slag to flow forward Chip and brush slag fully between passes; faster travel Undercut Groove cut into parent metal at toe of weld Amperage too high; travel speed too fast; arc length too long; wrong rod angle Reduce amps; slow travel; shorten arc Burn-through Hole melted through thin material Amperage too high for material thickness; travel too slow Drop amps; faster travel; switch to smaller rod Lack of fusion Weld lays on top without bonding to parent metal Amperage too low; arc length too long; rod tip not penetrating to puddle base Increase amps; shorter arc; ensure rod tip is at the joint root Crater crack Crack at the end of a weld Stopped welding too abruptly leaving a deep crater that solidifies under stress Pause arc on the puddle, fill the crater, then break arc; use back-step technique Spatter Small balls of weld metal stuck near the bead Excessive amperage; long arc; damp rod (especially lo-hy) Reduce amps; shorten arc; check rod storage Arc strikes Small spot weld marks on parent metal away from joint Striking the arc on the parent metal away from the weld joint Strike only on the joint or on a scrap piece; grind out arc strikes (they're crack-prone) Stick welding materials beyond mild steel Stick welding is fundamentally a steel-welding process but with the right rod handles a wide range: Mild steel — E6013, E7018 cover everything. The default case Stainless steel — E308L-16 for 304 stainless, E316L-16 for 316. Match the rod to the parent grade. DCEP polarity Cast iron — E NiFe-Cl (nickel-iron) or E Ni-Cl (pure nickel). Preheat to 200-300°C is mandatory; slow cool by burying in sand or vermiculite Hardfacing — Bossweld H600, Gemini H600R for wear surfaces. Weld onto manganese steel, plough shares, mining buckets Dissimilar metals — E312-16 (29/9 stainless) for joining stainless to mild steel, or unknown alloys Aluminium — Stick welding aluminium is possible (E4043 or E4047 rods) but technically difficult. TIG or MIG is far better for aluminium — see TIG Welding Guide Cast steel and alloys — match the rod to the parent grade per the spec sheet Cast iron — preheat is non-negotiable. Welding cast iron without preheat is the most common cause of "the weld cracked when it cooled" complaints. Cast iron has 4-30× the carbon content of mild steel — it's brittle, and rapid cooling causes cracking in the heat-affected zone. Preheat to 200-300°C with an oxy-acetylene torch, weld with short stringer beads, peen each bead immediately after welding, then bury the part in dry sand to cool slowly over 24+ hours. Slag removal and post-weld cleanup Stick welding produces slag — a glassy crust over the weld bead that must be removed before further passes or final inspection. The slag protects the cooling weld from oxidation but obscures defects underneath. Slag removal procedure: Wait 5-10 seconds after the arc breaks for the bead to cool below red heat Use a chipping hammer to crack the slag off the bead — angle blows along the bead direction, not across it Wire brush the bead to remove fine slag particles and reveal the underlying metal Inspect the bead for defects (porosity, undercut, lack of fusion) before laying the next pass Between multi-pass welds — full slag removal is mandatory. Slag inclusion in subsequent passes is a major defect For thick multi-pass welds, a chipping hammer + wire brush + angle grinder with a wire wheel is the standard kit. The Wire Brush & Wire Wheel Guide covers knotted vs crimped, cup vs wheel geometry, and why stainless welds need a dedicated stainless wire brush to avoid carbon contamination. Auto-darkening helmet stays on during chipping — slag chips fly at high speed. Stick welding safety — AS/NZS standards Stick welding generates four hazards: arc radiation (UV/IR/visible), fume, electrical shock, and heat/fire/burns. Each has its own AU standards reference: Hazard Control Standard reference Arc radiation (UV/IR) Auto-darkening helmet shade 9-13 (depending on amperage) AS/NZS 1338.1 (welding helmets), AS/NZS 1337 (eye protection) Fume (manganese, hexavalent chromium on stainless) Local exhaust ventilation, P2 respirator minimum, fume extractor for indoor work AS/NZS 1715 (respirator selection), AS/NZS 1716 (respirator testing) Electrical shock Insulated electrode holder, dry conditions, no welding on live equipment AS 1674.2 (Safety in welding) Heat/fire/burns Leather welding gloves, leather apron/jacket, fire-resistant boots, no flammables within 10 m AS 1674.1 (Welding hot work permits) Spatter/projectiles Safety glasses under helmet (always), closed footwear AS/NZS 1337.1 (eye and face protection) AS 1674.2:2007 is the primary AU welding safety standard. SafeWork Australia and state regulators reference it for hot work permits, training, and workplace welding compliance. AIMS Bossweld stick welder + electrode range AIMS stocks the Bossweld multiprocess inverter range — the dominant AU stick-capable welder lineup — plus a comprehensive electrode and consumable selection. Bossweld multiprocess welders (MIG/Stick/TIG inverter): MST 188X — 180A, 240V, 10A plug, $748. Hobby/light fab. Compact 240V single-phase MST 188X Bundle — Same welder + accessories pack, $989 MST 248X — 220A, 240V, 15A plug, $1,091. Light commercial fab MST 350X — 350A, 415V three-phase, $4,007. Industrial multiprocess. 60% duty cycle MST 500X — 500A, 415V, water-cooled, $6,260. Heavy industrial production Stick electrodes (Bossweld + Gemini): Bossweld and Gemini cover the standard mild steel range (E6013, E7018, E6011), plus specialist rods including E312-16 dissimilar, hardfacing (H600), and stainless (308L, 316L). Browse the filler metals collection for the full electrode range. For brand-by-brand electrode selection by application, see our Welding Consumables Guide. Welding cables and accessories: The welding cables and accessories collection covers electrode holders, work clamps, welding leads (35-70 mm²), connector plugs, and cable repair fittings. The welding supplies collection covers chipping hammers, wire brushes, slag chippers, and welding magnets. For PPE: see Welding Helmet Guide, Welding Eye Protection, and Respirator Guide. Need help selecting a welder, electrodes or accessories for your application? Browse the full welding range, contact the AIMS team or call us on (02) 9773 0122 — happy to talk through machine size, electrode selection and PPE for your job. Common stick welding mistakes Mistake Result Fix Wrong polarity for the rod Poor arc, porosity, sticking, bad weld Check rod packet — DCEP for E7018, DCEN/AC for E7024, etc. Damp lo-hy electrodes Hydrogen-induced cracking; porosity Store opened E7018 in heated rod oven 50-150°C. Re-bake if exposed to air >4hrs Arc length too long Porosity, spatter, bad fusion Arc length = rod diameter — keep it tight Wrong amps for rod and material Burn-through (too high) or lack of fusion (too low) Match amps to rod size table; adjust for thickness and position Push angle instead of drag angle Slag gets pushed forward, ends up under the bead Drag angle — rod points behind direction of travel, 10-15° Skipping slag removal between passes Slag inclusion defects in finished weld Chip and wire brush every pass before laying the next Bad earth clamp connection Erratic arc, won't strike, uneven welds Earth clamp must grip clean BARE metal — grind off paint/rust at clamp point Cast iron without preheat Crack on cooling — every time Preheat 200-300°C, peen each bead, bury in sand to cool slowly Welding into the wind on E7018 outdoors Wind blows the shielding away — porous weld Shield with a screen or wind-block; switch to E6011 or E6010 outdoors Striking arc on parent metal away from joint "Arc strike" creates a hard, crack-prone spot on the metal Strike only on the weld joint itself or on a scrap tab Frequently Asked Questions What is stick welding? Stick welding is the common name for Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), also called Manual Metal Arc (MMA). It uses a flux-coated consumable electrode (the "stick" or "rod") to create an electric arc between the rod tip and the workpiece. The arc melts both the rod core and the parent metal, forming a weld bead. The flux burns to produce a shielding gas and a protective slag layer over the cooling weld. Stick welding is the most common arc welding process for outdoor and field work because it doesn't need shielding gas. What's the difference between SMAW, MMA and stick welding? They're all the same process. SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) is the AWS/American name, MMA (Manual Metal Arc) is the European/UK and Australian standard name, and "stick welding" is the everyday tradesman's name. AS 1674.2 and AS/NZS 3992 use MMA terminology officially; AU welders informally use "stick" or "stick welding." What polarity should I use for stick welding? It depends on the electrode. E7018 and E6010 require DCEP (DC+ on the electrode, also called DC reverse polarity). E6013 runs on AC, DCEN, or DCEP. E7024 prefers DCEN. E6011 runs on AC or DCEP. The rod packet states the recommended polarity. The general rule: lo-hy and cellulose rods (E7018, E6010, E6011) need DCEP; rutile general-purpose rods (E6013, E7024) work on AC or DCEN. What does E6013 and E7018 mean? The numbers are AWS A5.1 classification codes for stick electrodes. The first two digits (60 or 70) indicate tensile strength in thousands of psi (60ksi or 70ksi). The third digit indicates welding position (1 = all positions, 2 = flat/horizontal). The fourth digit indicates flux coating type and recommended polarity (3 = rutile, 4 = iron powder, 8 = lo-hy basic). So E6013 is 60ksi tensile, all-position, rutile flux. E7018 is 70ksi tensile, all-position, low-hydrogen basic. What amperage should I use for stick welding? Match amperage to electrode diameter. 2.0mm rod: 40-80A. 2.5mm: 60-110A. 3.2mm (most common): 90-150A. 4.0mm: 130-200A. 5.0mm: 180-260A. 6.0mm: 220-340A. Within each range, increase amps for thicker plate and lower position (vertical-down, overhead); decrease for thinner plate, vertical-up, root passes. Each electrode packet states the manufacturer's recommended range. How do I strike a stick welding arc? Two techniques. Scratch start: drag the electrode tip across the workpiece like striking a match, then lift slightly to maintain the arc. Best for E6013 and rutile rods. Tap start: touch the electrode straight down and lift quickly. Required for E7018 lo-hy rods. Common arc-start mistakes: rod sticks (lift faster, increase amps); arc blows out (arc length too long, bring rod closer); won't start (cold rod, dirty earth clamp connection). Why does my stick electrode keep sticking to the work? Three common causes: amperage too low (the rod can't generate enough heat to break free — increase amps 10-20A); lifted too slowly after the touch (lift faster after the strike); arc length too short (you're holding the rod too close to the work). If the rod is stuck, twist it side-to-side to crack the flux loose, or break it out by snapping it off in the holder and restriking. Sticking is a normal beginner problem — disappears with practice as you find the right amperage and arc length. What's the best stick welding rod for beginners? E6013 — universally recommended as the beginner rod. It strikes easily, runs on AC or DC (any polarity), produces a smooth bead, and is forgiving of slight technique errors. Available in 2.5mm and 3.2mm for sheet and general work. Once you're competent on E6013, step up to E7018 (lo-hy basic, higher quality welds, requires DCEP and dry storage) for structural work. How do I read a stick welding puddle? Watch for shape (oval, slightly elongated in direction of travel), size (2-3× rod diameter wide), wetting at the toes (smooth tie-in to parent metal — no sharp lip), slag movement (slag should travel behind the puddle, not overtake it), and sound (steady "frying bacon" or "ripping cloth" — hissing means arc too long, popping means damp rod). Reading the puddle is the core stick welding skill — it tells you whether amps, travel speed and arc length are correct in real time. Can I stick weld stainless steel? Yes — use E308L-16 for 304 stainless and E316L-16 for 316 stainless. Match the rod grade to the parent grade. Use DCEP polarity. Stainless work-hardens quickly, so use lower amperage than for mild steel of the same thickness. Heavy sulphurised cutting oil is not relevant for welding (that's for machining); for welding, just clean the joint thoroughly before welding. The rods are more expensive than mild steel rods (~3-5× the cost) and need dry storage similar to lo-hy. Can I stick weld cast iron? Yes, but it's the most demanding stick welding application. Use E NiFe-Cl (nickel-iron) or E Ni-Cl (pure nickel) rods. Preheat the parent metal to 200-300°C with an oxy-acetylene torch — preheat is non-negotiable. Weld with short stringer beads (25-50mm long), peen each bead immediately while still hot, and bury the part in dry sand or vermiculite to cool slowly over 24+ hours. Welding cast iron without preheat causes cracking in the heat-affected zone every time. Why is my E7018 rod producing porous welds? Three causes, all related to moisture. Damp electrodes: E7018 absorbs moisture from the air and the moisture decomposes in the arc, releasing hydrogen that causes porosity. Solution: store opened E7018 in a heated rod oven at 50-150°C; re-bake if exposed to air more than 4 hours. Wet or contaminated parent metal: clean the joint with a wire brush. Long arc length: shorten the arc to approximately the rod diameter. What's the difference between vertical-up and vertical-down welding? Vertical-up means starting at the bottom and welding upward against gravity. Slower, deeper penetration, stronger weld. Standard for structural pipe and pressure work using E7018. Vertical-down means starting at the top and welding downward with gravity. Faster, less penetration, used for thin material and cosmetic welds with E6013 or E7024. AWS/AS welder qualification (3G certification) typically tests vertical-up welds — the harder of the two. Do I need a special welder for stick welding? You need a power source that delivers welding-current DC or AC at the amperage range for your electrodes. The modern default is an inverter DC welder (Bossweld MST series in AU): lightweight, smooth arc, runs all DC stick electrodes. AC-only transformer welders work with E6013 and E7024 but won't run E7018 or E6010. Multiprocess inverters (MIG/Stick/TIG combined) cover stick welding plus MIG and TIG. Engine-driven welders are for site work without mains power. What PPE do I need for stick welding? Auto-darkening welding helmet (shade 9-13 depending on amperage) to AS/NZS 1338.1. Safety glasses underneath the helmet (always — lifting the helmet to inspect the weld exposes eyes to UV from adjacent welders). Leather welding gloves. Leather apron or welding jacket. Closed leather boots. P2 respirator minimum for indoor welding, with local exhaust ventilation if possible — welding fume contains manganese (mild steel) and hexavalent chromium (stainless) which are serious health hazards. AS 1674.2 is the AU welding safety standard. Share: Share on Facebook Share on X Pin on Pinterest Previous Post Drill Chuck Guide: Keyless vs Keyed, JT Tapers, Sizes & How to Choose Next Post Choosing Your First Welder: A Beginner's Guide for Australian Workshops What is stick welding? Stick welding (also called arc welding or MMAW — Manual Metal Arc Welding) uses a consumable electrode coated in flux. The welder strikes an arc between the electrode tip and the workpiece, melting both into a weld pool. The flux coating burns to produce a shielding gas and forms slag over the cooling weld. Stick is the most portable, forgiving welding process — it works on rusty or painted metal, outdoors in wind, and in any position. Is stick welding easy to learn? Stick welding is harder to learn than MIG but easier than TIG. The challenge is maintaining a consistent arc length and travel speed while watching the puddle through dark welding lens. Most beginners need consistent practice to lay clean welds. The reward is a process that works on dirty material, outdoors, in any position, and runs from a simple inverter welder with no gas bottle. What's the best stick welding rod for beginners? General-purpose rutile electrodes (typically 2.5mm diameter for thin material) are the easiest to start with — they strike easily, run smoothly and produce clean welds on mild steel. As skill develops, low-hydrogen electrodes (such as 7016 or 7018 classifications) become useful for structural work and higher-strength steels. Specialty rods for stainless, cast iron and hard-facing come later as the work demands them. What's the difference between stick welding and MIG? Stick uses a hand-held consumable electrode that you strike and feed manually into the puddle, with flux providing the shielding. MIG uses a continuously-fed wire from a gun with separate gas shielding. Stick is more portable (no gas bottle), handles dirty material better, works in wind and rain, and runs on simpler equipment. MIG is faster, cleaner and easier to learn but needs gas, prefers clean material, and doesn't suit outdoor or windy conditions. 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