Product Guides
Silicone Spray Guide: Uses, Food-Grade & Where Not to Use It
Silicone spray lubricates and protects rubber, plastic and painted surfaces without oil contamination — this guide covers how it works, where it shouldn't be used (paint, electrical contacts), food-grade NSF H1 options, and how AIMS's own range compares to WD-40 and dry PTFE spray.
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WD-40 FAQ: What It's Actually For, What It's Not, and How to Use It Right
WD-40 is the water-displacing, penetrating, light-lubricating spray found in almost every Australian workshop and shed — this FAQ covers what it's actually for, what to avoid, whether it's a lubricant or a degreaser, safety and ingredients, how it compares to CRC 5-56, and how the Multi-Use and Specialist ranges differ.
Read moreTeflon (PTFE) Spray Guide: Dry-Film Lubricant Uses, Applications and Mistakes
Teflon spray (PTFE spray) is a dry-film lubricant. A solvent or water carrier sprays on wet, then flashes off in 5-15 minutes to leave a thin layer of PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) bonded to the surface. PTFE has the lowest coefficient of friction of any solid known (around 0.04 against steel) — slipperier than wet ice on wet ice. "Teflon" is the DuPont/Chemours trademark for PTFE; the chemistry is identical. Reach for it on door rollers, sliding tracks, padlocks, table-saw fences, treadmill belts, garage doors, drawer slides and chains where wet lube would trap chips and dust. Don't use it on heavily loaded gears, hot chains over 250 degC, or anywhere a thick load-carrying grease film is the job. Quick Reference — PTFE Sprays at AIMS Product Type Temp range Best for CRC Dry Glide with PTFE 150g Dry-film −40 to +260 degC Tracks, slides, locks, dusty workshop CRC Power Lube with PTFE 300g Wet (oil + PTFE) −18 to +149 degC Higher load, where wet film is OK CRC Syntha-Tech with PTFE 312g Synthetic + PTFE −40 to +232 degC NSF H1 food-safe, wider temp window All three are CRC. Choose the dry-film for clean surfaces and dust-prone environments. Choose the wet versions when there's enough load to push the dry film out of the contact zone. What Is Teflon Spray? "Teflon" is the registered trademark of Chemours (formerly DuPont) for a specific type of fluoropolymer: polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE. When a tradie says "teflon spray," they mean a PTFE-containing aerosol lubricant. The two terms are interchangeable in normal use, though strictly only Chemours can label a product as "Teflon." A PTFE spray is built around three things: PTFE particles — micron-sized, often suspended in a binder. A carrier solvent — typically an isoparaffin, naphtha or water in the case of water-based food-grade variants. The carrier evaporates after spraying. A binder or additive package — in "wet" PTFE sprays, this is a refined mineral or synthetic oil that stays on the surface; in dry-film sprays, it's a fast-flashing carrier that leaves only the PTFE behind. The distinction between "wet" and "dry" PTFE products is the single most important thing on this page. Get it wrong and the lube either drips and traps dust (wet on the wrong job) or wears off in hours (dry on the wrong job). The next section covers it. Why PTFE? The Lowest-Friction Solid Known PTFE's coefficient of friction against polished steel sits around 0.04 — comparable to ice on ice. For context, dry steel-on-steel is around 0.6, lubricated bronze on steel about 0.1. PTFE achieves this because the fluorine atoms wrapped around each carbon backbone are tightly held and chemically inert. There's almost nothing for another surface to "grab onto" at a molecular level. Three useful consequences for industrial use: Hydrophobic. Water beads off PTFE-treated surfaces. Useful in damp environments, but not a substitute for proper corrosion inhibitors. Chemically inert. PTFE resists most solvents, acids, alkalis and fuels. It doesn't break down in normal industrial chemistry. Wide thermal stability. PTFE itself is stable from cryogenic temperatures up to around 260 degC. The carrier or binder usually sets the working temperature limit, not the PTFE. What PTFE does not do well: carry heavy loads under sliding contact. The film is thin (microns) and once it wears through, you've got dry metal-on-metal. That's why you don't use PTFE spray on gear teeth, heavily loaded bearings, or open chains under shock load. Reach for grease or chain lube instead. Wet vs Dry PTFE — The Real Trade-Off This is where forum threads on r/BikeMechanics, r/Tools and the woodworking forums get heated. The short answer: Dry-film PTFE (e.g. CRC Dry Glide) sprays wet, flashes off, leaves a non-tacky PTFE deposit. It doesn't drip, it doesn't pick up sawdust the way oil does, and it doesn't stain clothes or timber. The downside: shorter service life. The film is thin and gets worn or washed off faster than a wet lubricant. Wet PTFE (e.g. CRC Power Lube) is oil with PTFE particles suspended in it. The oil stays on the surface and carries the PTFE into contact zones. Longer-lasting, better for higher loads — but it stays wet, so it'll attract dust and chips over time. Forum reality check — dust attraction over time Marketing copy says "PTFE dry lube won't attract dust." Forum reality from r/BikeMechanics, r/Tools and the woodworking communities is more nuanced. Applied as a thin coat on a clean surface, dry-film PTFE genuinely doesn't trap dust the way oil does — dust sits on the surface and wipes off. But over-applied, or sprayed onto a surface that wasn't degreased first, the residue builds up and starts collecting dust and grit. The fix is technique, not product choice: wipe the surface clean, apply a light even mist, let it dry, then wipe off any excess. Don't keep "topping up" without cleaning first or you'll build a sticky PTFE-and-dust layer that defeats the point. The bike-chain version of this debate is well-rehearsed: dry lube is clean and quiet but needs reapplication every 100-200 km, particularly after rain. Wet lube lasts longer but turns into a black grinding paste of grit and oil. Real cyclists tend to pick based on weather and how often they're willing to re-lube. Same logic translates to workshop applications: dry for clean environments and frequent service; wet for higher load or set-and-forget. PTFE Spray vs Silicone Spray vs Grease vs Oil — When Each Wins Lubricant Strengths Weaknesses Pick it when… PTFE dry Low friction, dust-rejecting, won't stain, won't migrate Short life, low load capacity, needs clean surface Dusty environment, sliding surfaces, visible surfaces (no drip) Silicone spray Works on plastic and rubber, water-repellent, wide temp range, cheap Contaminates paint surfaces, can interfere with welding/painting Rubber seals, plastic on plastic, marine, weather-sealing Lithium grease High load, long service, sticks where you put it Collects dust badly, messy, can wash out in wet Bearings, gears, garage door hinges, heavy load applications Penetrating oil (WD-40 / RP7) Frees seized parts, displaces water, cheap Not really a lubricant — evaporates and leaves little film Freeing rusted bolts, displacing moisture, cleaning Chain lube Sticks under shock and centrifugal load, anti-fling Wet, dirty, traps debris Roller chains, conveyor chains, motorcycle chains Where PTFE Spray Actually Earns Its Keep 1. Sliding door tracks and roller doors Top use case. The rollers carry a low to moderate load, the track is exposed to dust, and any wet lube ends up coating the door, the floor and your clothes. Dry-film PTFE leaves a slippery non-staining surface that lasts months in a clean environment. Reapply when you notice the door starting to chatter. 2. Treadmill decks — but only if the manual allows it Important — check your treadmill manual first Most modern treadmills specifically call for 100% pure silicone on the deck, not PTFE. Using the wrong lubricant can void your warranty and damage the belt or motor. DuPont historically listed treadmills as a valid application for PTFE products, but the manufacturer's instructions override everything. Spirit, Lifefitness, Sole and most home brands explicitly specify silicone. If the manual says silicone, use silicone — CRC's 808 Silicone Spray is the go-to. See our Silicone Spray Guide for the full range and other uses. 3. Bike chains — wet, dry or wax, depending on conditions PTFE dry lube on a bike chain is fast, clean and quiet when applied properly to a fully degreased chain. Forum experience says expect 150-200 km in dry conditions, dropping to 80-100 km if it rains. Heavy rain will wash it off. For wet-weather riding, wet PTFE or a dedicated wet chain lube outlasts dry PTFE by a wide margin — at the cost of a black, oily chain. 4. Table saw rails, fences and mitre slots This is where dry-film PTFE genuinely excels. Sawdust will gum up any wet lube within hours. The slick PTFE coating lets fence rails slide freely without grabbing dust. Same logic for drill press tables, bandsaw rip fences and router lift columns. Clean the surface first with a degreaser, apply a light mist, wipe off the excess after a minute. 5. Padlocks and lock mechanisms Modern locksmith consensus has shifted from graphite to PTFE for most padlocks and pin-tumbler locks. The reasoning: graphite is fantastic dry, but mixes with any oil or moisture into a sticky grey paste that gums up wafers. PTFE stays slippery, repels water, and won't react with traces of old oil. The exception: a lock that already has graphite in it. Don't squirt PTFE in on top — the carrier will turn the graphite into mud. Service the lock properly first (compressed air, isopropyl flush) then dose with PTFE. 6. Garage door rollers, hinges and tracks CRC and similar brands make a dedicated "Garage Door Lube" — typically a hybrid wet PTFE designed for the load on roller spindles plus the dust exposure of an outdoor opening. Plain dry-film PTFE works for tracks (low load); for the actual roller bearings, a wet PTFE or a light grease is better. 7. Lawn mower decks (food-safe variants only if near produce) A dry PTFE coating on the underside of a mower deck reduces grass buildup. Apply to a clean deck (scrape first), then let it dry fully before mowing. For ride-on commercial mowers, this can shave maintenance time noticeably. Use a food-grade NSF H1 variant (CRC Syntha-Tech) if you're contracting on schools, food processing yards or anywhere overspray could contact produce. 8. Drawer slides, hinges and light pivots The classic "squeaky door" use case. PTFE dry lube on a quick spray nozzle is cleaner than oil, less likely to bleed onto clothes, and lasts long enough for a domestic job. For high-cycle commercial cabinetry, a wet PTFE will last longer between services. What NOT to Use Teflon Spray On — Failure Modes from the Forums Don't use PTFE spray on: Heavy chain drives under load — motorbike chains, conveyor chains, drive chains. PTFE film tears through too fast. Use proper chain lube. Loaded gears — gearboxes, open spur gears. Needs the load-carrying film of grease or gear oil. High temperature applications above ~260 degC — PTFE itself decomposes at high heat and (importantly) the fumes are toxic. Don't spray near welding or grinding work in progress. Welding clamps, weld tables and surfaces being painted — like silicone, PTFE residue can interfere with paint adhesion and weld quality. Use a dedicated anti-spatter for welding. Anywhere a thick load-carrying film is needed — large bearings, gear couplings, kingpins, suspension joints. Wrong tool. On top of existing graphite in locks. Clean the lock first, then re-lubricate. Plastic and rubber components without checking — most PTFE sprays are plastic-safe but some carriers can attack ABS, polycarbonate or natural rubber. Spot-test in a hidden area first. Food-Grade PTFE — When NSF H1 Actually Matters NSF H1 is a registration from the National Sanitation Foundation for lubricants approved for "incidental food contact." It applies in food processing, brewery, dairy, abattoir and packaging plant environments where a lube could conceivably end up in or on food. CRC Syntha-Tech with PTFE 312g is the AIMS workhorse food-grade PTFE — NSF H1 registered, useful −40 to +232 degC, suitable for incidental contact. Reach for it on: Food packaging machinery (conveyors, slicers, fillers) Dairy and beverage processing lines Abattoir and meat processing equipment Pharmaceutical clean environments For workshop use where no food contact is possible, the regular CRC Dry Glide or Power Lube is fine and cheaper. NSF H1 is not "safer" or "cleaner" — it's specifically certified for an environment most workshops aren't in. Application Technique — How the Pros Actually Use It Clean first. PTFE bonds to clean surfaces. Spraying over old grease or grime traps it under the new coating. Use a degreaser, wipe dry. Shake the can hard. 30 seconds minimum. PTFE particles settle. If you can hear the agitator ball moving freely, keep shaking another 10 seconds. Spray light, even passes. 200-300mm from the surface, sweeping motion. Don't dwell — you'll get runs and build-up. Let it flash off. 5-15 minutes for the carrier to fully evaporate. If you actuate the mechanism while it's still wet, you'll drag the carrier into bearings where it doesn't belong. Wipe off excess. A clean lint-free cloth across the surface picks up over-spray and any unbonded PTFE. This prevents the dust-attraction issue. Test movement. Cycle the mechanism a few times. Add more only if needed. Less is more with PTFE. Brands at AIMS Industrial AIMS stocks the CRC range — the recognised industrial-grade choice in Australian workshops. The three PTFE sprays cover the dry-film, wet and food-grade applications between them: CRC Aerosol Dry Glide With PTFE 150g — Pure dry-film PTFE. The default choice for tracks, locks, slides and any surface where you don't want a wet residue. CRC Aerosol Power Lube With PTFE 300g — Wet PTFE with anti-wear additives. Higher load capacity. Use where dry film won't last and a wet residue is acceptable. CRC Syntha-Tech Lubricant With PTFE 312g — Synthetic PTFE blend, NSF H1 registered, wider temperature window. The pick for food, dairy and pharma environments. For non-PTFE workshop lubrication needs we also stock the broader CRC silicone, food-grade silicone, lithium and moly grease, and anti-seize ranges. AIMS Industrial Range — Related Products Penetrating & Other Lubricants — full range including PTFE, silicone and dry films Silicone Spray — the silicone alternative when rubber, plastic or extreme cold is in play Greases — lithium, moly, multipurpose for heavier load applications Anti-Seize Compounds — for fasteners and thread protection Degreasers — clean surfaces before lubricating CRC Brand Collection — full CRC chemical range stocked at AIMS All Lubrication products — every lube AIMS carries Further reading from AIMS Industrial Lubricants Guide — when each lubricant type wins Moly Grease Guide — high-load alternative when PTFE isn't enough Oil Viscosity Chart — picking the right oil grade Industrial Degreaser Guide — clean before you lubricate Bearing Maintenance Guide — why PTFE spray is the wrong call here FAQ — Teflon Spray What's the difference between Teflon spray and PTFE spray? None in terms of chemistry. "Teflon" is the Chemours (formerly DuPont) brand name for polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). When someone says "teflon spray" in a workshop, they mean a PTFE-containing aerosol lubricant. Strictly speaking, only Chemours-licensed products can be labelled "Teflon," so most aerosols are sold as "PTFE spray" or "with PTFE." Is dry-film PTFE really better than wet PTFE? Better for different things. Dry-film leaves a non-tacky coating that doesn't trap dust or drip — ideal for sliding surfaces, tracks, locks and anywhere a wet residue is unwanted. Wet PTFE lasts longer under higher loads because the oil carries the PTFE into contact zones and stays put. Pick dry for clean environments and frequent service, wet for higher load or where you can't easily re-apply. Does PTFE spray really attract dust? Not when applied correctly — a thin, even coat on a clean surface leaves a slick film that dust slides off rather than sticks to. The dust-attraction reputation comes from over-application: keep spraying without cleaning first and the residue builds up into a gummy layer that does collect grit. The fix is technique. Clean the surface, apply a light mist, let it dry, then wipe off any excess. Can I use Teflon spray on my bike chain? Yes, but with the right expectations. Dry PTFE bike lubes work well for clean, dry conditions but typically last only 100-200 km before needing reapplication, dropping further in wet weather. For wet rides or chains exposed to road grit, a wet chain lube or wet PTFE blend outlasts dry PTFE by several times — at the cost of a dirty chain. Reddit cycling forums have run this debate for years; the honest answer is "depends on weather and how often you'll re-lube." Can I use PTFE spray to lubricate my treadmill belt? Check your treadmill manual first. Most home and commercial treadmills specifically call for 100% pure silicone, not PTFE. Using the wrong product can void the warranty and damage the belt or drive motor. If silicone is specified, use silicone (CRC 808 Silicone Spray). PTFE is only appropriate where the manufacturer explicitly allows it. Is Teflon spray safe on rubber and plastic? Most are, but not all. The PTFE itself is inert to almost everything, but the carrier solvent can attack certain plastics (ABS, polycarbonate) and natural rubber. Always spot-test in a hidden area first if you're unsure. CRC Dry Glide and Syntha-Tech are both considered plastic-safe in normal use, but a quick test on the back of a hinge or a non-critical surface is cheap insurance. Is PTFE spray better than graphite for padlocks? For most modern padlocks, yes — and it's the current locksmith consensus. Graphite works dry but turns into a sticky paste if it ever meets oil, water or other lubricants. PTFE stays slippery, repels water, and won't react with traces of other lubes. The exception: a lock already loaded with graphite. Service it (compressed air, isopropyl flush) before squirting in PTFE, otherwise the carrier liquefies the graphite into mud. What temperature can Teflon spray handle? PTFE itself is stable from cryogenic up to about 260 degC. The carrier or oil binder usually limits the working range first. CRC Dry Glide is rated −40 to +260 degC. CRC Syntha-Tech goes −40 to +232 degC. Above these, the lubricant breaks down and (importantly) the PTFE fumes are harmful — never spray near welding, grinding sparks or naked flame. What's NSF H1 and when do I need it? NSF H1 is a certification from the National Sanitation Foundation for lubricants approved for "incidental food contact." Required in food processing, dairy, brewery, abattoir, pharmaceutical and packaging environments where lubricant could conceivably reach food or product. For general workshop use it's not necessary — regular industrial PTFE spray is fine and cheaper. Can I use PTFE spray on door hinges? Yes — one of the cleaner choices for the job. Cleaner than oil (won't drip onto floors or clothes), longer-lasting than WD-40 (which isn't really a lubricant anyway), and won't attract dust in a normal indoor environment. Wipe the hinge clean first, apply a light mist, cycle the door a few times. Reapply every 6-12 months on a moderately used door. How long does Teflon spray last? Depends on load, environment and reapplication frequency. On low-load applications in clean environments (drawer slides, door hinges, lock mechanisms), 6-12 months is realistic. On medium-load applications (table saw fences, garage door tracks), 2-4 weeks before reapplication is more typical. On high-cycle production machinery, weekly. If you're applying it weekly to a high-load job, you're probably using the wrong lubricant — try a wet PTFE or a grease. Will PTFE spray work in cold weather? Yes — PTFE itself is stable to cryogenic temperatures and most PTFE sprays are rated to around −40 degC. This makes them useful for cold-store equipment, refrigeration unit hinges, and walk-in freezer door rollers. Silicone spray works at similar temperatures, but where you specifically want low friction in addition to cold tolerance, PTFE wins. Can I use PTFE spray instead of WD-40? Different jobs. WD-40 is a water-displacing penetrating fluid — it frees rusted threads, displaces moisture, cleans residues, but evaporates off quickly and leaves only a token film. PTFE spray is a genuine lubricant — it leaves a persistent low-friction coating. Use WD-40 to free up a stuck mechanism; use PTFE spray to keep it sliding freely afterwards. Why does my PTFE spray leave a white residue? Over-application. PTFE is white — visible deposits mean you've sprayed too much. The fix: wipe down with a clean cloth and a light pass with degreaser if needed, then apply much less next time. Light, even passes from 200-300mm away with no dwelling on any one spot. Can I use Teflon spray on threads to lubricate fasteners? You can but it's not the best choice. PTFE works on threads, but for repeated assembly or high-temperature applications (exhaust manifolds, stainless on stainless to prevent galling) a dedicated anti-seize compound is far better. PTFE-tape on pipe threads is a different application — a sealing tape, not a sprayable lubricant. See our Thread Locking & Sealing Guide for the right product per job. Need help picking the right lubricant? Call AIMS Industrial on (02) 9773 0122 or contact us. We stock the full CRC range and a few decades of workshop experience to go with it. Need welding gear? The AIMS Welding collection covers everything from entry-level inverters to multiprocess welders. People Also Ask — PTFE Dry Lubricant Spray Q: Can PTFE spray be used on table saw and bandsaw guide surfaces? Yes — PTFE dry lubricant spray is well suited to table saw and bandsaw guide and table surfaces. It reduces friction between the workpiece and the cast iron or steel table, allowing material to feed smoothly without the residue issues that wet oils create (wet oils attract sawdust and form a clogging paste). PTFE spray also provides corrosion protection on unpainted cast iron table surfaces. Apply an even coat to the table surface, allow the carrier solvent to flash off, then buff lightly with a clean cloth. Reapplication every few months of regular use maintains the protective lubricating film. Q: What is the difference between PTFE spray and silicone spray lubricant? PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) spray leaves a dry, solid lubricating film after the carrier evaporates — it does not remain wet or oily. Silicone spray leaves a thin, wet silicone oil film on the surface. Both provide low-friction lubrication and are compatible with plastics and rubber. The key differences: PTFE film is generally more durable under mechanical contact and better at higher temperatures; silicone spray is better at displacing moisture and provides superior water repellency. Silicone spray should not be used where the surface will be painted, as it causes fish-eye paint defects. PTFE spray does not have this limitation in most applications. See our Silicone Spray Guide for the full picture on silicone spray uses and where it shouldn't be used. Q: How long should PTFE spray dry before using the treated surface? The carrier solvent in PTFE spray typically flashes off (evaporates) within 5 to 15 minutes at room temperature, leaving the dry PTFE film behind. During this flash-off period, avoid contact with the surface to prevent disturbing the film before it sets. The exact drying time depends on the specific product formulation, ambient temperature, and how heavily the product was applied. In cold or humid conditions, allow a few extra minutes. Some products recommend wiping with a clean cloth after the carrier has fully evaporated to remove any excess and buff the remaining PTFE film to an even coating. Q: Is PTFE spray safe to use on a lawn mower deck? Yes — PTFE dry lubricant spray is well suited to lawn mower decks. It reduces the buildup of cut grass clippings on the underside of the deck, which can accumulate and restrict airflow, reducing cutting efficiency and eventually causing rust. A coat of PTFE spray on a clean, dry deck before mowing season creates a non-stick surface that clippings slide off rather than adhering to. Unlike oil-based lubricants, PTFE spray does not create a sticky surface that attracts more material. Reapply at the start of each mowing season or when clippings begin to stick again. Q: What CRC PTFE products are available for dry lubrication applications? CRC offers several PTFE-based dry lubricant products for industrial and workshop use. CRC Dry Glide is a general-purpose PTFE dry lubricant suitable for chains, guides, slides, and plastic components. CRC Power Lube with PTFE provides a heavier film for higher-load metal-to-metal applications. CRC Syntha-Tech White Grease with PTFE adds a grease-phase carrier for lubrication where a thicker film is needed, such as on open gears and slides exposed to contamination. Each product is formulated for different load and operating conditions — checking the specific product data sheet confirms suitability for the intended application. Pair workshop cleaning with the right equipment — browse the AIMS parts washers collection.
Read morefreeze-spray-guide
Freeze spray flash-cools electronics, sensors and seized fasteners to around minus 50°C. The right way to use it for hunting heat-related intermittent faults, the propellant safety difference (HFC-134a vs HFC-152a), and the AIMS Industrial range — CRC, Dy-Mark and Loctite LB 8040.
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CRC Brings Back the Joy of Maintenance
Maintenance activities always sound like a big chore, but not anymore. These products from CRC can make your tasks easier: CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner CRC Red Lithium Grease CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant with PermaStraw™ anchor" id="auto-ac-pro-cleaner">CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner You should always keep your car's air-conditioning system clean for maximum efficiency all year round. Now, you can do that more easily with the CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner. Benefits: Cleans and sanitizes vehicle air-conditioner without having to disassemble any major parts of the system – you just have to pop out the cabin filter to access the air inlet Thoroughly cleans with its foaming formulation Comes with a 45 cm hose applicator for easy application Kills mould and bacteria Eliminates odours and other unpleasant smells in the cabin Leaves long-lasting protection and a pleasant fragrance The CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner is a cost-effective AC maintenance solution for both passenger and commercial vehicles. How to use the product: Make sure the vehicle is parked in a properly ventilated area. Pop the bonnet to help ventilate out the foam you will apply in step 7. Make sure the engine and all electrical installations in the vehicle are switched off. Remove the cabin air filters and other filter systems. Shake the can well and attach the hose applicator / extension tube to the can nozzle. Insert the extension tube about 30cm into the air inlet of the AC system. Spray the product until the system is full of foam. During the complete operation and until total evaporation of the active foam, make sure the workspace is ventilated and the bonnet left open. Leave it to work for at least 30 minutes (during this period, the foam will discharge through the AC drain). Turn on the engine and let it idle for 10 to 20 minutes, with the heating and ventilation system set to maximum. Make sure the evaporator is dry. Replace the cabin air filter. Don’t forget to close the bonnet. Important: This is a professional service product and should only be used by trained professionals. Buy the CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner. CRC Red Lithium Grease Red Lithium Grease is CRC’s heavy-duty, multi-purpose NLGI 2 grease. It is formulated with anti-oxidation, anti-rust and anti-wear additives, so you can be sure your equipment always performs at its peak. Benefits: Withstands extreme pressure and temperature (effective from -35°C to +149°C) Offers a long-lasting lubricating protection Protects against rust and corrosion Resists sling-off Resists moisture, water and detergents, so it won’t wash out Stays in place, thanks to its high tackiness Long service life Some popular applications: Assembly plants Automotive Bearings Construction Drying ovens Electric motors Kilns Mining Metal production Off-road operations Pumps Reapers Water pumps Buy the CRC Red Lithium Grease. CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant with PermaStraw™ (New look) Your favourite “toolkit in a can” got a new look in May 2022. What’s new: The 5-56 now comes with PermaStraw™ Dual-Action Spray System (one-piece actuator with two-way spray that ensures the straw stays in place) The Marine 66 is now the 5-56 Marine Benefits: Restores smooth action by penetrating rust to get rid of squeaks and squeals without the need for disassembly Eliminates (and prevents) moisture in wet equipment Frees up components bonded by dirt and scale Lubricates contacts and joints to restore smooth action Protects metals against corrosion Minimises potential breakdowns caused by harsh environmental exposures such as high humidity Buy the CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant or the PermaStraw version. AIMS' Note on Safe Use of Lubricants Protective gear: Protect your skin and eyes! Wear chemical-resistant gloves to prevent skin irritation or absorption of chemicals. Safety glasses or goggles provide essential eye protection. Additionally, consider using a respirator if fumes are particularly strong or you are working for an extended period. Labels and instructions: Before using any product, carefully read the instructions and safety warnings on the label. Follow the specific guidelines for usage, proper handling and disposal. Check for ‘use by’ dates. Fire hazards: Many parts cleaners and lubricants are flammable. Keep them away from open flames, heat sources, and anything that could cause a spark. Store these products in a cool, dry location in their original containers, out of the reach of children and pets. Environment: Choose less toxic and environmentally friendly options whenever possible. Make sure there are no open flames or anything that can ignite flammable substances. Dispose of used products and empty containers responsibly according to the instructions or your local hazardous waste guidelines. Ventilation: When working with chemicals that release strong fumes, always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in an open area. If you are working indoors, make sure that the windows are open and consider using fans to increase airflow and disperse / vent out the fumes. Need to deal with rust? Our Rust Treatments collection covers removers, converters and protective undercoats. People Also Ask — CRC Maintenance Products Q: What is CRC 5-56 used for? CRC 5-56 is a multi-purpose maintenance spray used for loosening seized fasteners, displacing moisture from electrical components, lubricating cables and hinges, and providing short-term corrosion protection on metal surfaces. It is one of the most widely used maintenance sprays in Australian workshops and trades. Q: What is the difference between CRC 5-56 and CRC White Lithium Grease? CRC 5-56 is a light penetrating oil and moisture displacer suited to freeing seized parts and general lubrication where a thin oil film is adequate. CRC White Lithium Grease is a heavier semi-solid grease that stays in place under higher loads and provides longer-lasting lubrication for chassis fittings, hinges, slides and components that require a grease rather than an oil. Q: Can CRC Brakleen be used on all brake components? CRC Brakleen is designed to remove grease, oil, dust and brake fluid residue from disc rotors, drums, callipers and pads. It evaporates cleanly without leaving residue. It should not be used on rubber brake lines, seals or flexible hoses without checking compatibility, and should not be inhaled in confined spaces due to solvent content. Q: What CRC products are suitable for electrical applications? CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and CRC Contact Cleaner are designed for cleaning electrical contacts, circuit boards and connectors. They evaporate quickly, leave no residue and are safe for most electronic components when used correctly. CRC 5-56 can be used sparingly for moisture displacement in electrical connectors but is not a substitute for a dedicated electronic cleaner where residue-free results are required.
Read moreParts Washer Guide: Solvent vs Aqueous Selection
Parts washers: solvent vs bioremediation, CRC SmartWasher and Purasolve range compared, sizing by workshop volume, disposal economics and AS 1940 compliance.
Read moreContact Cleaner Guide: AS/NZS 3000 Compliance, MAF Sensor Warning & Electrical Selection
Contact Cleaner Guide: Electrical Contact Cleaner, Plastic-Safe Use, Energised Equipment & AU Brands May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial Contact cleaner is a fast-evaporating dielectric solvent designed to clean electrical contacts, switches, relays, connectors and electronic assemblies without leaving conductive or insulating residue. Used in workshop maintenance for ECU connectors, fleet vehicle wiring loom faults, motor servicing, audio equipment, and electronics repair — but the wrong product, the wrong technique, or the wrong moment can damage plastic enclosures, dissolve wire markings, or compromise dielectric properties. This guide covers what contact cleaner actually is, when to use it versus brake cleaner versus WD-40, plastic safety, AS/NZS compliance for energised work, the CRC and WD-40 brand range stocked at AIMS, and the common mistakes that cost electronics technicians their warranty claims. AIMS Industrial stocks the full range of industrial electrical contact cleaners across CRC, WD-40 Specialist, Molytec and Dy-Mark Protech — plus the CRC Lectra Clean electric motor and equipment cleaner range for motor-specific applications. Contact the AIMS team or call (02) 9773 0122 for technical selection advice or bulk supply. Electrical Contact Cleaner — Quick Reference (Compatibility Table) Electrical contact cleaners remove oxidation + flux residue + dust from live electrical contacts without damaging plastics or leaving residue. They are NOT interchangeable with general degreasers, brake cleaner or MAF (mass air flow) sensor cleaner — each is formulated for a specific job. Common AU products + their correct use below. Product Type Use On Contacts? Notes Electrical Contact Cleaner (CRC 2-26, CO Contact Cleaner) Yes — designed for this Plastic-safe, non-conductive, leaves no residue MAF Sensor Cleaner Yes — but expensive Sensor-specific formula; OK on contacts but overkill Brake Cleaner (chlorinated) No — attacks plastics Damages connectors, insulation + sensor housings Brake Cleaner (non-chlorinated) Caution — test first Plastic-safer but may leave residue General Degreaser (CRC Co Contact) No — leaves residue Residue traps moisture + accelerates corrosion Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) 99% Yes — manual cleaning Workshop / lab grade only; slow evaporation WD-40 (original) No — leaves oily film Causes dust + dirt to adhere; not for contacts CRC 5-56 Limited — short-term Moisture-displacing but not contact-specific Critical: Always de-energise circuits before cleaning unless the contact cleaner is explicitly rated for live use. Test plastic compatibility on a hidden area first. For automotive sensors (O2, MAF, MAP), use sensor-specific cleaner — generic contact cleaner can deposit silicone that poisons the sensor element. AIMS stocks cleaning chemicals, degreasers, CRC range, WD-40 + silicone spray. What is contact cleaner? Contact cleaner is a fast-evaporating solvent formulated specifically for electrical and electronic equipment — non-conductive when wet, dielectric, residue-free on the formulas designed for precision work, and chemically distinct from a workshop degreaser or brake cleaner. The defining characteristics are dielectric strength (won't conduct electricity), zero residue (won't leave a film that attracts dust or interferes with contact pressure), and fast evaporation (the solvent must clear before equipment is re-energised). Contact cleaner removes oxide layers from contact surfaces, flushes dust and debris from connectors and switches, displaces moisture from accidentally-wetted electronics, and dissolves the carbon film that builds up on heavily-used switches and potentiometers. The performance differential between brands is small for the cleaning step itself; the differential that matters is residue profile, plastic compatibility, dielectric strength and flammability. ⚠️ This is industrial electrical contact cleaner — not contact LENS cleaner If you're looking for contact lens cleaner — the saline or peroxide solution used to clean optical contact lenses — you're in the wrong place. This guide covers industrial electrical contact cleaner. For contact lens cleaning solutions see your optometrist, pharmacy or eye care specialist. The two products are completely unrelated. Industrial electrical contact cleaner is a flammable hydrocarbon solvent that will damage soft contact lens material and burn your eyes. Boston, Menicon Progent, Bausch & Lomb and similar contact lens products are saline-based solutions in completely different chemistry families. Don't confuse the two. Contact cleaner vs brake cleaner vs WD-40 — the disambiguation These three workshop aerosols look similar in the can, smell similar in the air, and partially overlap in chemistry. They are not the same product. Substituting one for another is the single most common mistake in workshop electrical maintenance. Product Residue Designed for Wrong use Contact cleaner None (zero-residue formulas) or conditioning film (DeoxIT-style) Electrical contacts, switches, PCBs, connectors, relays — dielectric, non-conductive when wet Heavy oil/grease removal (not enough solvency); brake friction surfaces (not formulated for the application) Brake cleaner None — dries to nothing Brake dust, oil contamination, weld prep on metal Electronics (some formulas leave conductive residue; attacks plastic enclosures more aggressively) WD-40 original Yes — leaves a thick oily film Water displacement, light lubrication, rust loosening Electrical contacts (oily film attracts dust, can short low-current contacts, interferes with switch action) WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner None This is a different product to original WD-40 — chemically a true contact cleaner Don't confuse the blue/yellow original WD-40 can with the WD-40 Specialist contact cleaner SKU The cardinal rule: "WD-40 is a contact cleaner" is wrong unless you mean the WD-40 Specialist range. Original WD-40 (the blue and yellow can) is a light lubricant and water displacement spray — it leaves an oil film that's the opposite of what an electrical contact needs. The WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner is the correct product in the WD-40 family for electrical work. For more on what original WD-40 is designed for (and isn't), see our WD-40 FAQ. For brake-side cleaning work see the Brake Cleaner Guide; for general workshop degreasing see the Industrial Degreaser Guide. The three products live alongside each other in any working shop — they solve different problems with different chemistry. Flammable vs non-flammable contact cleaner Most modern AU contact cleaners are flammable hydrocarbon-based formulas. The non-flammable formulations historically used chlorinated solvents (perchloroethylene, trichloroethylene) — but Cat 1A carcinogen classifications and environmental concerns have shifted most AU products to non-chlorinated chemistry. Type Primary solvent Flammable Typical use Flammable hydrocarbon Hexane, heptane, naphtha, isopropyl alcohol blend Yes AU workshop default. Most CRC, WD-40 Specialist, Molytec, Dy-Mark Protech products. Non-flammable chlorinated Tetrachloroethylene or methylene chloride No Legacy formulations — being phased out. Some specialist industrial SKUs still available. HFE / HFC fluorinated Hydrofluoroether or hydrofluorocarbon No Specialist electronics manufacturing — high cost, very low VOC. The flammability rule: Never spray flammable contact cleaner on hot equipment, near sparks, near open flame, or onto a live high-current circuit where arcing is possible. Always de-energise equipment before cleaning where practical (see AS/NZS 4836 section below). Allow full evaporation before re-energising — minimum 2 minutes for trace amounts on small contacts, 5-15 minutes for heavy application or in cool/humid conditions. The aerosol propellant adds flammability — typically LPG. Even "low-VOC" formulas can be flammable as aerosols. The historical AU naming convention — "CRC CO" (Contact Cleaner Original) and "CRC NF" (Non-Flammable) — referred to flammable and non-flammable variants respectively. Both names still appear in search but the CRC product line has been simplified at retail. The current CRC Contact Cleaner range at AIMS is the standard hydrocarbon (flammable) formula in 150g, 311g, 350g and 400g aerosol sizes. Plastic-safe formulas — what's at risk and which products are tested Contact cleaner solvents attack plastics. Some formulations are "plastic-safe" (tested compatible with most engineering thermoplastics); others will craze, embrittle or soften ABS, polycarbonate, polystyrene and acrylic with prolonged contact. Plastic Risk with standard contact cleaner Notes ABS (relay housings, connector bodies) High Crazes and embrittles. Brief contact usually OK; pooling causes damage. Polycarbonate (display windows, light pipes) High Crazes immediately on contact. Cracks may appear hours later. Polystyrene (low-cost cases) Very high Dissolves rapidly. Avoid all contact. Acrylic (PMMA — clear gauge faces, lenses) Very high Crazes and clouds immediately. Polypropylene (battery cases, terminal blocks) Low Generally resistant. Brief overspray usually fine. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) Very low Resistant. Safe for most applications. PTFE / Teflon Very low Chemically inert. Safe. Nylon (cable ties, harness clamps) Low-medium Generally resistant; some plasticiser leaching with prolonged exposure. PVC (cable insulation, conduit) Medium Brief contact OK; prolonged exposure softens and leaches plasticiser. Rubber (NBR, EPDM seals) Medium NBR swells; EPDM tolerates brief contact. Practical rules: For relay housings, connector bodies, switch housings and any visible plastic — apply contact cleaner sparingly via short bursts, not flood spray. Most damage is from pooling, not brief contact. For acrylic and polycarbonate (gauge faces, display windows, light pipes) — mask before spraying, or use a different cleaning method (isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud is the safe alternative). The WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner publishes a plastic-safe compatibility list. The standard CRC and Dy-Mark formulas list compatibility on the SDS. When in doubt, test on a hidden surface for 60 seconds before treating a visible area. Can I use contact cleaner on live electrical equipment? No — not safely, and not legally for most work in Australia. AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules require electrical work to be carried out on de-energised equipment under most circumstances, and the contact cleaner SDS for every major brand explicitly states the product is for use on de-energised equipment only. The combined risk profile is: Flammability: Most contact cleaners are flammable hydrocarbon aerosols. Spraying near a live circuit where arcing is possible — a switch making/breaking, a relay closing, a contactor cycling, a brush motor commutating — creates ignition risk. Dielectric breakdown: Solvent in liquid form has different dielectric properties to solvent fully evaporated. Spraying flooding amounts of solvent across an energised assembly can cause flashover between conductors that would otherwise have safe clearance. Shock risk: The person spraying becomes a path to ground via the wet aerosol stream. Low-voltage circuits are usually safe; mains-voltage and higher are not. The relevant standards: AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules — primary AU standard for electrical installation. Work on de-energised equipment is the default; energised work requires specific authorisation and procedure. AS/NZS 4836:2023 Safe working on or near low-voltage electrical installations and equipment — defines minimum approach distances, isolation procedures, PPE for working on or near energised low-voltage equipment. Lock-out / Tag-out (LOTO) procedure under each state's WHS regulations — formal isolation before cleaning work begins. The practical workflow: Isolate the circuit — disconnect, lock out, tag out per company LOTO procedure. Verify dead with a voltage tester rated for the supply voltage. Allow capacitive discharge time on equipment with large filter caps (VFDs, inverters, switchmode power supplies). Apply contact cleaner — spray, work the connector/switch through several actuations, allow full evaporation. Wait — minimum 2 minutes for trace amounts, 15+ minutes for heavy application or in cool conditions. Reconnect and re-energise. Some products advertise "use on energised equipment" — typically chlorinated or HFE/HFC-based non-flammable formulas. Even these require operator judgement: if there's any possibility of arcing during cleaning, isolate first. The convenience of skipping LOTO is rarely worth the consequences. PCB and electronics cleaning — contact cleaner vs IPA Contact cleaner is acceptable for PCB connector cleaning, edge-card contact cleaning, through-hole component contacts and large switch contacts. For delicate SMT (surface-mount technology) work, flux residue removal after soldering, and electronics manufacturing assembly cleaning, isopropyl alcohol (IPA) at 90%+ concentration is the standard cleaner. Application Best cleaner Why Edge-card connector (RAM, expansion cards) Contact cleaner Fast, displaces oxide, removes dust effectively D-SUB / DB9 / DB25 connector pins Contact cleaner Same — designed for this application Audio jack and headphone socket Contact cleaner (or DeoxIT for premium audio) Contact cleaner for routine; DeoxIT D5 leaves conditioning film for vintage gear SMT pad flux residue (after rework) IPA 99% on cotton bud Precision, no excess solvent pooling on neighbouring components Through-hole solder joint cleaning IPA Same precision rationale Switch contacts (relay, toggle, microswitch) Contact cleaner Penetrates internal mechanism via case vents Potentiometer (analog volume knobs) Contact cleaner (or DeoxIT F5 specialty) Spray inside via case vent, work pot through full travel Conformal coated PCBs Manufacturer-approved cleaner only Some conformal coatings dissolved by contact cleaner solvents Optoelectronics (LED, photodiode lenses) IPA + lint-free wipe Avoid solvent residue on optical surfaces The boundary: Contact cleaner is fast and effective for general electrical maintenance — workshop, automotive, motor, switch, connector work. IPA is the precision tool for benchwork on PCBs and electronics manufacturing. For audio equipment restoration, the DeoxIT family (D5, F5, GoldX) is specialty — leaves a conditioning film that protects against re-oxidation. AIMS doesn't currently stock DeoxIT — it's a CAIG niche product available through electronics specialty retailers. Automotive sensors and connectors — and what NOT to spray Contact cleaner is the standard workshop tool for diagnosing and fixing intermittent automotive electrical faults. ECU connectors, body harness connectors, sensor leads, lamp sockets, switch packs and trailer harness terminals all benefit from periodic contact cleaning. Standard automotive contact cleaning procedure: Disconnect the battery — even for low-voltage work. Modern vehicle electronics dislike sudden circuit changes; static-sensitive ECUs can be damaged. Identify the connector — pin count, locking style, retention clip. Spray contact cleaner into both halves of the connector — generous on the male side, brief blast on the female. Mate and unmate the connector several times — the wiping action is what cleans contact surfaces. Final spray, then allow 5-10 minutes for full evaporation. Reconnect, reconnect the battery, verify operation. What NOT to spray with contact cleaner: MAF sensors (Mass Air Flow): The heated platinum-wire or hot-film element is destroyed by hydrocarbon solvent. Use a dedicated MAF sensor cleaner — chemically distinct from contact cleaner, no propellant residue, no oily film. O2 sensors (Oxygen sensors / Lambda): The ceramic element and platinum catalyst layer are contaminated by silicone vapours common in lubricant sprays. Most contact cleaners are OK but never use silicone-based aerosols (window squeak silicone spray, etc.) near O2 sensors. ABS wheel speed sensors and Hall-effect sensors: Generally OK with contact cleaner; the magnetic sensing element is sealed. Optical sensors (cameras, lidar, parking sensors): Solvent leaves film on optics — use IPA + lint-free wipe instead. For brake-side cleaning work — caliper rebuilds, brake dust removal, weld prep on brake-related fabrication — see the Brake Cleaner Guide. Brake cleaner and contact cleaner are not interchangeable: brake cleaner is more aggressive on plastics and not formulated for dielectric strength. Audio equipment cleaning — potentiometers, switches, gold contacts Vintage audio gear restoration, professional audio mixing console maintenance and electric guitar repair all use contact cleaner as a primary maintenance tool. The application is slightly different from automotive work. Potentiometers (volume, tone, EQ pots): The wiper inside a pot ages and oxidises over time, causing scratchiness, dead spots and sudden jumps in level. Spray contact cleaner into the case via the small vent slot (don't pry the case open), then rotate the pot through its full travel 20-30 times to work the cleaner across the carbon track and wiper. Allow 5 minutes evaporation before powering up. Switches: Same approach — work the mechanism through its full range while wet, allow evaporation, retest. Toggle switches, rotary switches and slide switches all respond to this treatment. Gold-plated connectors (RCA, XLR, balanced 1/4"): Use contact cleaner sparingly. Gold doesn't oxidise; if a gold connector is dirty, the contamination is dust, dirt or sulphide tarnish on the plating. Light spray, wipe with lint-free cloth. DeoxIT vs CRC philosophy: The CAIG DeoxIT family (D5 cleaner, D100 concentrate, GoldX gold-treatment, F5 fader lubricant) is the gold standard for premium audio restoration. DeoxIT D5 leaves a conditioning film that protects against re-oxidation; CRC Contact Cleaner dries to zero residue. For routine maintenance, CRC is cheaper and equally effective. For vintage gear where the contacts will sit for years between use, DeoxIT's conditioning film is worth the higher cost. AIMS doesn't stock DeoxIT but can source on request. Motor & electrical equipment cleaning — CRC Lectra Clean Contact cleaner is the right product for connectors, contacts and switch mechanisms. For larger electrical equipment — motor windings, generator coils, contactor stacks, switchgear — the workshop-tier product is the CRC Lectra Clean Electric Motor & Equipment Cleaner in 400g aerosol, or the CRC Lectra Clean 4L TCE-Free for dip cleaning and brush application. Lectra Clean is a heavy-duty electrical-grade degreaser — solvent-based, dielectric, fast evaporating, designed to flush oil, grease, dust and contamination from motor windings without leaving residue or damaging insulation varnish. The 4L TCE-Free variant is specifically formulated without trichloroethylene (a Cat 1A carcinogen) and complies with stricter solvent regulations. When to use Lectra Clean vs contact cleaner: Small connector, switch, relay → contact cleaner. Motor windings, contactor stack, switchgear, large electrical assembly → Lectra Clean. Outdoor electrical equipment, generator coils, transformer bushings → Lectra Clean (more volume capacity). For electric motor selection, lifespan factors and IP rating context, see the Industrial Electric Motor Guide. The CRC Electrical Parts Cleaner Quick Drying 400g is the third option in the AIMS range — sized between contact cleaner and Lectra Clean, suited to medium-scale electrical parts cleaning. Australian WHS, SDS and disposal requirements Contact cleaners are scheduled hazardous chemicals under Australian WHS regulations. Workshops handling them have specific obligations under the model WHS Act and the chemicals regulations. SDS register: A current Safety Data Sheet must be available for every contact cleaner product in use. CRC, WD-40, Molytec, Dy-Mark and other major suppliers publish current SDS online. AIMS can supply SDS documentation on request. Solvent exposure standards (Safe Work Australia): Solvent WES TWA (8-hr) WES STEL (15-min) Notes n-Hexane 20 ppm — Common contact cleaner solvent. Peripheral neuropathy risk with chronic high exposure. n-Heptane 400 ppm 500 ppm Lower toxicity than hexane. Common replacement. Isopropyl alcohol 400 ppm 500 ppm Used as solvent and propellant. Petroleum naphtha (light) — — Variable composition. Check SDS for specific WES. Tetrachloroethylene (legacy NF) 50 ppm 200 ppm Cat 1A carcinogen. Used in some legacy non-flammable formulas. Ventilation: Use contact cleaner in ventilated areas. For prolonged or enclosed-space use, local exhaust ventilation or organic-vapour respiratory protection is required — see the Respirator Guide for AS/NZS 1716 Type A or AB cartridge selection. PPE: Solvent-resistant nitrile gloves, safety glasses with side shields, organic-vapour respirator for enclosed-space use. Disposal: Non-chlorinated contact cleaner waste is typically controlled waste in most AU jurisdictions — licensed disposal required, not general waste, not the drain. Aerosol cans must be fully discharged before recycling; most councils accept fully-empty aerosols in metal recycling streams. Chlorinated formula waste is hazardous waste — licensed liquid waste contractor required. AU brand guide — CRC, WD-40 Specialist, Molytec, Dy-Mark, DeoxIT, Ambersil The AU contact cleaner market splits clearly between industrial supplier tier (CRC, WD-40 Specialist, Molytec, Dy-Mark Protech — AIMS stocked) and specialty niches (DeoxIT for audio, Ambersil for UK industrial, Boston/Bausch for contact lens — wrong product class). Brand Tier Range AIMS stocked? CRC Industrial flagship Contact Cleaner (4 sizes 150g/311g/350g/400g), Lectra Clean motor cleaner, Electrical Parts Cleaner Quick Drying ✅ Full range WD-40 Specialist Industrial Fast Drying Contact Cleaner 290g — chemically distinct from original WD-40 ✅ Yes Molytec Industrial AU M866 Electric Component and Contact Cleaner Aerosol 300g ✅ Yes Dy-Mark Protech Industrial AU Contact Cleaner Flammable 350g ✅ Yes DeoxIT (CAIG) Specialty audio premium D5, D100, GoldX, F5 — leaves conditioning film Source on request — electronics specialty retailers usually stock Ambersil UK industrial Various electrical-grade cleaners Not stocked — source on request Boston / Bausch & Lomb / Menicon Contact lens (wrong product class) Saline-based contact lens cleaning solutions Not stocked — see optometrist Selleys / Penrite / Repco / Bunnings own-brand Consumer DIY Single-can retail Not stocked — direct to consumer retailers CRC dominates the AU industrial market — the Contact Cleaner four-size lineup (150g for occasional, 311g for general workshop, 350g for medium-use, 400g for high-volume) covers nearly every workshop scenario. WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner is the chemically-similar credible Tier 2 alternative — important not to confuse with the famous blue/yellow original WD-40 which is NOT a contact cleaner. Molytec M866 is an AU-formulated industrial option. Dy-Mark Protech is the entry-tier industrial option. AIMS-stocked range deep dive Product Size Price guide Best for CRC Contact Cleaner 150g 150g $14.73 Occasional use, kit bag, low-volume electrician CRC Contact Cleaner 311g 311g $31.15 General workshop, medium volume CRC Contact Cleaner 350g 350g $22.00 General workshop, AU standard size CRC Contact Cleaner 400g 400g $26.59 High-volume workshop, fleet maintenance WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner 290g $21.36 WD-40 ecosystem buyers; plastic-safe formula Molytec M866 Electric Component and Contact Cleaner 300g $13.89 AU industrial entry tier, value option Dy-Mark Protech Contact Cleaner Flammable 350g $17.44 AU industrial entry tier CRC Lectra Clean Electric Motor & Equipment Cleaner 400g aerosol $28.34 Motor windings, contactor stacks, large electrical assemblies CRC Lectra Clean TCE-Free 4L 4 litres $321.26 Dip cleaning, brush application, bulk motor servicing CRC Electrical Parts Cleaner Quick Drying 400g $16.44 Medium-scale electrical parts cleaning between contact cleaner and Lectra Clean Browse the full contact cleaners collection or the broader parts washers and cleaners range for adjacent products. Common contact cleaner mistakes Mistake What goes wrong Fix Using original WD-40 (blue/yellow can) as a contact cleaner Heavy oil film attracts dust, shorts low-current contacts, sticks switches Use a true contact cleaner. WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner is fine; original WD-40 is not. Spraying on energised equipment Fire risk (flammable), flashover risk, shock risk, AS/NZS 3000 non-compliant De-energise per AS/NZS 4836 + LOTO. Re-energise after evaporation. Flooding plastic enclosures Crazing, embrittlement, eventual cracking of ABS/PC/polystyrene Short bursts, not flood spray. Use plastic-safe formula for visible plastics. Re-energising too quickly Solvent vapour ignites in arcing contact; flashover 2 minutes minimum for trace amounts; 5-15 minutes for heavy application. Spraying MAF sensor with contact cleaner Destroys hot-wire sensing element Use dedicated MAF sensor cleaner only. Using brake cleaner on electronics Conductive residue (some formulas), aggressive plastic attack Use contact cleaner. Brake and contact cleaners are not interchangeable. Spraying on optical sensors / camera lenses Residue on optics; clouding IPA + lint-free wipe. Skipping the actuation step Cleaner sits in the connector but doesn't reach the contact wiping surface Spray, then mate/unmate connector several times to wipe contacts clean. Selection checklist Is this electrical/electronic work? Yes → contact cleaner. No → use brake cleaner or degreaser (see Brake Cleaner Guide / Industrial Degreaser Guide). Is the equipment de-energised? Required for almost all work per AS/NZS 3000. LOTO before spraying. Plastic-rich enclosure? Choose a plastic-safe formula (WD-40 Specialist or CRC standard with light application). Audio equipment / vintage gear? CRC Contact Cleaner for routine; DeoxIT D5 for premium conditioning (source on request). Motor windings or large electrical assembly? CRC Lectra Clean rather than contact cleaner. MAF sensor? Dedicated MAF cleaner, not contact cleaner. SMT board / PCB rework? IPA 99% rather than contact cleaner for precision work. Volume more than 2 cans/week? Move to the 400g size or talk to AIMS about bulk supply. For supply, SDS documentation or technical selection advice, contact the AIMS team or call (02) 9773 0122. Frequently Asked Questions What is contact cleaner? Contact cleaner is a fast-evaporating dielectric solvent designed to clean electrical contacts, switches, relays, connectors and electronic assemblies. Key properties: non-conductive when wet, zero residue (on residue-free formulas), fast evaporation, dielectric strength. Most modern AU contact cleaners are hydrocarbon-based (flammable); some legacy formulas are chlorinated (non-flammable). Distinct from brake cleaner (different application focus) and original WD-40 (which leaves an oil film and is not a contact cleaner). Is contact cleaner the same as contact LENS cleaner? No — completely different products in completely different chemistry families. Industrial contact cleaner is a flammable hydrocarbon solvent for electrical and electronic equipment. Contact lens cleaner is a saline or peroxide-based ophthalmic solution. Don't use industrial contact cleaner on contact lenses — it will damage the lens material and burn your eyes. For contact lens cleaning, see your optometrist or pharmacy. Can I use contact cleaner on live electrical equipment? No — not safely and not legally for most AU electrical work. AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules require work on de-energised equipment under most circumstances. Contact cleaner SDS documentation for all major brands states use on de-energised equipment only. The combined risk is flammability (most formulas are flammable hydrocarbons), dielectric breakdown (liquid solvent across an energised circuit can cause flashover), and shock risk. Isolate per AS/NZS 4836 and LOTO, clean, allow evaporation, re-energise. Does contact cleaner damage plastic? Depends on the plastic and the formula. ABS, polycarbonate, polystyrene and acrylic can craze and embrittle with prolonged contact cleaner exposure. HDPE, polypropylene, PTFE and nylon are largely resistant. Some products (WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying, certain CRC formulas) are tested plastic-safe. Practical rule: short bursts not flood spray for plastic enclosures, mask acrylic/polycarbonate surfaces, test on a hidden surface if unsure. What's the difference between flammable and non-flammable contact cleaner? Flammable contact cleaners use hydrocarbon solvents (hexane, heptane, naphtha, IPA blends) plus aerosol propellant — most modern AU products. Non-flammable contact cleaners historically used chlorinated solvents (perchloroethylene, trichloroethylene) but these are Cat 1A carcinogens and most have been phased out. Specialist non-flammable HFE/HFC fluorinated cleaners exist for electronics manufacturing but cost significantly more. AU workshops default to flammable hydrocarbon formulas with proper ventilation and ignition control. Can I use WD-40 as a contact cleaner? Original WD-40 (blue and yellow can) — no. It leaves a thick oil film that attracts dust, sticks switch mechanisms and can short low-current contacts. WD-40 was designed as a water-displacement spray and light lubricant, not an electrical contact cleaner. WD-40 Specialist Fast Drying Contact Cleaner — yes. That's a chemically distinct product in the WD-40 Specialist range, formulated specifically for electrical work, fast-evaporating with no residue. Don't confuse the two. Is CRC Contact Cleaner safe on circuit boards? Yes for general PCB connector and contact cleaning. CRC Contact Cleaner dries to zero residue and is non-conductive when wet. For precision SMT (surface-mount) work or flux residue removal after rework, isopropyl alcohol 99% is preferred — better precision, no excess solvent pooling near sensitive components. For conformal-coated PCBs, check the conformal coating manufacturer's compatibility before spraying — some coatings dissolve with contact cleaner solvents. What's the difference between contact cleaner and brake cleaner? Different design priorities. Contact cleaner is formulated for electrical work — dielectric strength, plastic compatibility, zero residue for contact pressure preservation. Brake cleaner is formulated for brake surface cleaning — aggressive solvency on oil and brake dust, often more aggressive on plastics, not formulated for dielectric strength. Don't substitute brake cleaner for contact cleaner in electronics — risk of conductive residue (some formulas) and plastic damage. Don't substitute contact cleaner for brake cleaner on caliper assemblies — not aggressive enough on brake fluid contamination. Can I use contact cleaner on car ECU connectors? Yes — contact cleaner is the standard workshop tool for ECU connector cleaning. Procedure: disconnect the battery first (modern ECUs dislike sudden circuit changes), spray contact cleaner into both halves of the connector, mate and unmate several times to wipe contacts, final spray, allow 5-10 minutes evaporation, reconnect battery and verify operation. Effective for intermittent fault diagnosis caused by corroded, dirty or oxidised connector pins. Is contact cleaner safe on a MAF sensor? No — use a dedicated MAF sensor cleaner. Mass Air Flow sensors use a heated platinum-wire or hot-film element that is destroyed by hydrocarbon solvents. Standard contact cleaner formulas, brake cleaner and degreaser all damage MAF sensors. CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner is chemically distinct — no propellant residue, no oily film, formulated specifically for the hot-wire element. DeoxIT vs CRC Contact Cleaner — which is better? Different design philosophies. CRC Contact Cleaner dries to zero residue — fast, cheap, suited to routine workshop maintenance and connectors that will be cycled or reused soon. DeoxIT D5 leaves a conditioning film that protects against re-oxidation — preferred for vintage audio gear, premium switches, and contacts that will sit unused for months or years. DeoxIT D5 is the audio restoration gold standard but costs 4-6x as much per can as CRC. For routine work, CRC is the better economic choice. AIMS doesn't currently stock DeoxIT — source through electronics specialty retailers. How long should I wait before re-energising after spraying contact cleaner? Minimum 2 minutes for trace amounts on small contacts. 5-15 minutes for heavy application, cool or humid conditions, or large enclosed assemblies. The risk of re-energising too soon is solvent vapour igniting in arcing contacts at switch-on (flashover) and dielectric performance degradation while solvent is still present. When in doubt, wait longer — there is no benefit to rushing this step. What is CRC CO and CRC NF — are they the same product? Legacy AU/NZ naming convention. "CO" originally meant "Contact Cleaner Original" — the standard formulation. "NF" meant "Non-Flammable" — the chlorinated solvent variant. The current AIMS-stocked CRC Contact Cleaner is the standard hydrocarbon (flammable) formula in 150g/311g/350g/400g sizes. The non-flammable chlorinated variant has largely been phased out due to Cat 1A carcinogen classification. The keywords "CRC CO" and "CRC NF" still appear in search but reflect legacy product naming. Can I use contact cleaner on a keyboard? Generally not the right tool. Mechanical keyboard switches are sealed; contact cleaner can pool inside the case and craze plastic. Membrane keyboards are even worse — the conductive trace layer can be damaged. Better approach: compressed air to blow out debris, isopropyl alcohol 99% on a cotton bud for stuck keys, full disassembly for severe contamination. Contact cleaner is overkill and risky for routine keyboard maintenance. What's the workplace exposure standard for contact cleaner solvents in Australia? Safe Work Australia exposure standards for common contact cleaner solvents: n-Hexane 20 ppm TWA (peripheral neuropathy risk), n-Heptane 400 ppm TWA / 500 ppm STEL, Isopropyl alcohol 400 ppm TWA / 500 ppm STEL, Tetrachloroethylene (legacy NF) 50 ppm TWA / 200 ppm STEL (Cat 1A carcinogen). Use contact cleaner in ventilated areas; for prolonged or enclosed-space use, organic-vapour respiratory protection is required. Does contact cleaner leave a residue? A true contact cleaner is formulated to flash off and leave no conductive residue, which is why it's used on live-signal contacts and circuit boards. Some electrical cleaners intentionally leave a light lubricating film — useful on switch contacts, but unwanted on high-impedance signal paths. Check whether the product is residue-free or leaves a film, and match that to the job. Will contact cleaner remove flux residue or conformal coating from a circuit board? Contact cleaner is made to flush dust, oxidation and light grease, and it will lift some flux residue, but it is not a dedicated flux remover and won't reliably strip cured conformal coating — use a purpose-made flux remover or coating stripper for those. On a board, test on a small area first and confirm the cleaner is plastic-safe before wider use. See the CRC range. Can contact cleaner restore a corroded earth or battery connection? It helps: spraying and working the joint flushes out the oxide and salts that raise resistance on earth straps, battery terminals and chassis grounds. For a badly corroded connection, clean it mechanically first, then flush with contact cleaner, and protect the finished joint with a suitable terminal grease or protectant so the corrosion doesn't return.
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Read morePenetrating Oil & Spray Lubricants: What to Use and When
What Is Penetrating Oil? Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity solvent-based lubricant designed to wick into the tight gaps between corroded, seized or rusted threaded fasteners and joints. The thin carrier solvent flashes off after creeping into the joint, leaving a lubricant film that breaks the friction bond between rust and metal. It's the first tool to reach for on a stuck bolt, seized fitting, frozen hinge or rusted pin — before resorting to heat, impact or extraction. Is penetrating oil the same as WD-40? Not exactly. WD-40 (the original blue-can product) is a multi-purpose water displacement spray with mild penetrating action. Dedicated penetrating oils — like CRC 5-56, Aerokroil, Plus Gas and WD-40 Specialist Penetrant — have stronger, more aggressive solvent formulations specifically engineered to free seized fasteners. For light corrosion WD-40 may do the job; for badly seized fasteners use a dedicated penetrant. For a full rundown on what WD-40 is actually for (and where CRC 5-56 and dedicated penetrants take over), see our WD-40 FAQ. Need to pick the right Loctite product? Our Loctite Application Guide maps every grade to its job. For grease gun selection (lever, pneumatic, battery), see our grease guns range. For tin snips and aviation shears (straight, left-cut, right-cut), see our snips and shears range. Penetrating Oil & Spray Lubricants: What to Use and When May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial Penetrating Oil & Spray Lubricants: What to Use and When May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial Penetrating Oil & Spray Lubricants: What to Use and When Apr 28, 2026 AIMS Industrial Pick up the wrong can and you will waste time, money, and sometimes damage what you are trying to fix. In Australian workshops, the most common error is treating WD-40 or CRC 5-56 as an all-purpose lubricant — applying it to chains, bearings, and hinges that need lasting protection, not a light penetrant that evaporates in an hour. The second most common error is reaching for silicone spray when you need something that will actually penetrate rust. This guide covers every major category of spray lubricant and penetrating oil available in Australia: what each product is formulated to do, where it performs well, where it fails, and which products AIMS Industrial stocks for trade and industrial applications. The WD-40 vs lubricant debate gets a definitive answer. So does every related question about CRC 5-56, INOX MX3, silicone spray, dry PTFE, and the rest of the field. Products covered: WD-40 Original, WD-40 Specialist range, CRC 5-56, INOX MX3, INOX Lanox MX7, CorrosionX, Rocol, Molytec, Dy-Mark, Helmar, and 3-in-1 Oil. WD-40 vs CRC 5-56 vs Aerokroil — Penetrating Oil Quick Reference Penetrating oils break the bond between rusted threads, seized fasteners + corroded joints. Despite popular use, WD-40 is a water-displacing oil — not a true penetrating oil. The comparison below shows what each product is actually designed for. Product Best Use Penetration Rating WD-40 (Original) Water displacement, light lube, displacing moisture from electrics Low — not a true penetrant CRC 5-56 Multi-purpose — light penetrating, lubricating, water-displacing Medium CRC Knock'er Loose Heavy penetrant — seized fasteners + rust High WD-40 Specialist Penetrant Capillary action — rusted fasteners High Aerokroil (Kano Labs) Premium — extreme penetration via molecular size Very High — industry benchmark PB Blaster Workshop seized bolts + automotive High Loctite Freeze + Release Thermal shock + penetrant combined Very High — best for stubborn rust ATF + Acetone (50/50 DIY) Workshop home brew — surprisingly effective Very High — independent tests confirm Critical: WD-40 is the brand name people reach for, but it's NOT the strongest penetrant. For seized fasteners use a dedicated penetrant + give it 15-30 minutes (longer if rust is heavy). Apply, tap with a hammer to set up vibration, then attempt removal. Heat (oxy torch) is the most effective rust-breaker but creates fire risk. AIMS stocks inspection, WD-40, CRC, Loctite, lubrication + cutting lubricants. What Is a Penetrating Oil? A penetrating oil is a low-viscosity fluid formulated to creep into the microscopic gap between corroded metal surfaces — seized fasteners, rusted threads, stuck bolts, corroded electrical contacts — and chemically break the bond created by rust, oxidation, and mineral scale. It achieves this through a combination of solvents, surfactants, and light carrier oils that wick along metal surfaces via capillary action. The key distinction: penetrating oil is not a lubricant in the practical sense. A lubricant creates a lasting film between moving surfaces to reduce friction over time. A penetrating oil breaks corroded joints apart. Most penetrating oils contain very light carrier oils that evaporate within hours — they provide short-term lubrication as a side effect, but no lasting protection. Using them as a substitute for a proper lubricant is one of the most common and costly maintenance errors in industrial environments. How penetrating oils work Solvent component: Dissolves rust, mineral deposits, and corrosion products that bind metal surfaces together. Petroleum-based solvents are most common; some formulations use synthetic or bio-based solvents. Surfactant component: Reduces surface tension, allowing the fluid to wick into micro-gaps by capillary action. This is the property that makes a penetrating oil different from simply applying engine oil to a rusted bolt. Carrier oil: Suspends the solvents and surfactants, provides temporary lubrication during the break-free process, and helps flush corrosion debris. In INOX MX3 and CorrosionX, the carrier oil is formulated to remain on the surface and provide ongoing corrosion inhibition. The quality difference between penetrating oils comes from the surfactant package and carrier oil volatility. A well-formulated surfactant gets fluid into the joint faster and deeper. A less volatile carrier oil provides better post-application corrosion protection — which is why INOX MX3 outperforms WD-40 for long-term protection despite functioning similarly as an initial penetrant. WD-40: Penetrating Oil, Lubricant, or Solvent? This is the most argued question in every trade workshop and internet forum on the subject. The r/YouShouldKnow thread "WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant" generated over 390 comments. Here is the straight answer. WD-40 is primarily a water-displacement fluid and light penetrating oil. The name stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula" — it was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen at the Rocket Chemical Company for corrosion protection on Atlas missile components. It was never designed to be a long-term lubricant. What WD-40 contains Petroleum-based mineral spirits (solvent — primary constituent) Light mineral oil (temporary lubricant, approximately 25% of formulation) Liquefied petroleum gas propellant (aerosol form) Proprietary surfactants and corrosion inhibitors WD-40's own website acknowledges that the product provides lubrication — they address the "WD-40 is not a lubricant" myth in their FAQs. It does lubricate. The issue is that the light mineral oil evaporates relatively quickly, so WD-40 Original is not suitable as a long-term lubricant. As a penetrating oil, it works adequately for light to moderate corrosion; for heavily seized fasteners, dedicated penetrating oils outperform it. Where WD-40 works well Displacing moisture from electrical contacts and connections Freeing mildly stuck or lightly rusted hinges, latches, and pivots Short-term surface rust prevention on tools and exposed metal Removing sticker and adhesive residue from metal and glass Loosening mildly corroded nuts and bolts before the main penetrant soak Where WD-40 falls short Heavily corroded or seized fasteners: Modest surfactant formulation compared to dedicated penetrants. For badly rusted joints, use CRC 5-56, INOX MX3, or a purpose-built penetrant. Long-term lubrication: WD-40 evaporates. Using it on chains, bearings, or hinges means constant reapplication and poor protection in between. Rubber and plastic components: Petroleum solvent content can degrade certain rubber compounds and craze some plastics. Check compatibility before use. Food-processing environments: WD-40 Original is not food-safe. Bicycle chains: WD-40 strips existing lubricant without adequately replacing it. The WD-40 Specialist range WD-40 has addressed the limitations of their original formula with the Specialist range — purpose-built products for specific applications. The range includes: Specialist Penetrant (faster-acting, comparable to CRC 5-56), Specialist Silicone, Specialist Dry PTFE Lubricant, Specialist White Lithium Grease, and Specialist Chain Lubricant. If you have been using WD-40 Original for everything, switching to the appropriate Specialist product is a material improvement. CRC 5-56 vs WD-40: The Australian Workshop Standard In Australian trade workshops — manufacturing, fleet maintenance, electrical, mining support, construction — CRC 5-56 has largely displaced WD-40 Original as the go-to penetrating fluid. Both are petroleum-based water-displacement penetrants, but there are meaningful differences. Property WD-40 Original CRC 5-56 Penetrant aggressiveness Moderate Moderate to good Corrosion inhibition Light Better — leaves a protective film Electrical use Good Good — marketed to electricians specifically Trade availability (AU) Excellent — everywhere Excellent — electrical and industrial wholesalers Food safety No No For the core use case — water displacement and light penetration on mildly corroded components — CRC 5-56 and WD-40 Original perform similarly. CRC has a slight edge in corrosion inhibition because its carrier oil leaves a better protective residue. Neither is the right choice for heavy corrosion or long-term lubrication. Types of Spray Lubricants Not all spray lubricants are penetrating oils. There are six distinct product categories, each engineered for a different job. Using the wrong category is the root cause of most maintenance spray errors. 1. Penetrating oils Low-viscosity, high-surfactant formulations designed to wick into corrosion and break seized joints. Light carrier oil provides temporary lubrication only. Not designed for long-term lubrication. Examples (AIMS): CRC 5-56, INOX MX3, CorrosionX, Dy-Mark Penetrating Oil Use for: Seized fasteners, rusted pivots, moisture displacement Do not use for: Long-term lubrication, chains, bearings, rubber seals 2. Silicone spray lubricants Silicone polymer in a carrier solvent. Solvent evaporates, leaving a slippery, clear silicone film. No petroleum — safe on rubber and most plastics. Does not attract dust. Suitable for non-load-bearing applications where a clean, long-lasting film is needed. Examples (AIMS): CRC Silicone Lubricant, Helmar Silicone Spray Use for: Rubber seals, window tracks, door runners, plastic sliding surfaces, conveyor and treadmill belts Do not use for: Surfaces to be painted (silicone prevents adhesion), electrical contacts, load-bearing metal-on-metal, woodworking 3. Dry lubricant sprays (PTFE/Teflon) PTFE particles in a carrier solvent. Solvent evaporates completely, leaving a dry, invisible PTFE film with no sticky residue — will not attract dust or grit. PTFE is the same material used in non-stick cookware. Examples (AIMS): Rocol Dry PTFE Lubricant, CRC Dry Film PTFE Use for: Cables, cable housings, locks, padlocks, bicycle chains (dry conditions), jig table slides Do not use for: High-load applications (insufficient film strength), wet or muddy environments 4. White lithium grease sprays Aerosol-delivered white lithium grease. Heavier and longer-lasting than penetrant-type sprays. Suitable for metal-on-metal sliding contact where spray application is more practical than direct grease. For a full overview of grease types, see the Grease Types & Selection Guide. Use for: Gate hinges, metal drawer runners, exposed sliding joints, trailer couplings Do not use for: Precision bearings, chains, rubber or plastic surfaces 5. Chain lubricants Formulated to penetrate chain link interfaces and remain on the chain under centrifugal load. Available as wet chain lube (oil-based, for heavy industrial chains and wet conditions) or dry chain lube (wax/PTFE-based, for bicycles and dusty conditions). For detailed guidance see the Industrial Roller Chain Guide. Examples (AIMS): Rocol Chain Lubricant, CRC Chain Lube Do not use WD-40 as a chain lubricant — it strips existing lubricant and leaves no lasting film. 6. Corrosion inhibitor sprays Designed primarily for long-term corrosion protection rather than immediate penetration. Leave a durable, water-resistant film on metal surfaces — most effective in marine, agricultural, and outdoor industrial environments. Examples (AIMS): INOX MX3, INOX Lanox MX7 (food-grade), CorrosionX Use for: Marine fittings, outdoor electrical connections, agricultural machinery, exposed fasteners in coastal environments These are for protecting clean or already-treated metal, not for treating active rust that's already present — if rust needs treating first, see AIMS's Rust Converter Guide for how to deal with it in place before applying ongoing protection. INOX, Lanox and Other Australian Penetrant Brands Of the major brands available in Australian workshops, the strongest performer for coastal and agricultural conditions is also one of the least well-known outside the trade. INOX MX3 INOX is made in Brisbane. Developed for Australian conditions, it has become the standard penetrant and corrosion inhibitor in Australian marine, agricultural, and heavy industrial applications. The MX3 product combines penetrating oil, lubricant, and corrosion inhibitor in one formulation. Key advantages over WD-40 and CRC 5-56: the carrier oil is less volatile (lasting protective film after use), corrosion inhibition is significantly better in salt spray testing, and it is generally safe on rubber and most plastics (check SDS for specific polymer compatibility). The trade-off is slightly slower initial penetration — for badly seized fasteners, some tradespeople apply CRC 5-56 first to initiate penetration, then follow with INOX MX3 for protection. Available at AIMS Industrial. INOX Lanox MX7 The food-grade version of INOX MX3. H1 lubricant registered — approved for incidental food contact. Meets FDA, USDA, and Australian food contact requirements. Does not contain petroleum distillates. Required in any HACCP-accredited food processing, beverage, or packaging facility where maintenance spray may contact food or food-contact surfaces. Do not use WD-40, CRC 5-56, or standard INOX MX3 in these environments. Available at AIMS Industrial. CorrosionX Originally developed for the US aviation industry, CorrosionX offers exceptional penetration and corrosion inhibition in wet and salt-laden environments. Used by the Royal Australian Navy, commercial marine operators, and mining teams in coastal Queensland. Works via Polar Bonding — molecules orient perpendicular to the metal surface, forming a persistent barrier against moisture and oxygen. More expensive than INOX or CRC; the right choice for severe environments where the cost of corrosion damage justifies the premium. Available at AIMS Industrial. Rocol UK industrial brand with strong Australian trade distribution. Rocol's spray range focuses on specific industrial applications: dry PTFE spray, chain lubricants, anti-corrosion coatings, and food-grade lubricants. Rocol Dry PTFE Lubricant is the standard choice for cable and lock applications in Australian maintenance workshops. Available at AIMS Industrial. Molytec, Dy-Mark, and Helmar Molytec produces molybdenum disulphide-based lubricants and anti-seize compounds for extreme-pressure assembly applications — not penetrating oils. When you free a seized fastener, applying a Molytec anti-seize on reassembly prevents recurrence. See the Anti-Seize Compound Guide for selection guidance. Dy-Mark and Helmar are general Australian industrial maintenance spray brands offering penetrant, silicone lubricant, contact cleaner, and dry lubricant options — suitable for standard applications. When to Use Penetrating Oil vs Lubricant: Decision Guide The following table covers the most common maintenance spray situations in Australian trade and industrial environments, with the correct product type and notes for each. Situation Correct Product Notes Seized or rusted bolt/nut Penetrating oil (CRC 5-56, INOX MX3) Apply, wait minimum 20 minutes, reapply. See technique section below. Hinge needing long-term fix White lithium grease or silicone spray Penetrant evaporates. Use grease for metal-on-metal, silicone for plastic/rubber hinge components. Bicycle or motorcycle chain Dedicated chain lube (wet or dry) WD-40 strips existing lube. Use dry lube in dusty conditions, wet lube in wet or heavy-load conditions. Door and window runners/tracks Silicone spray No oil staining on rubber seals or plastic tracks. Electrical connections — moisture WD-40 or CRC 5-56 Short-term. For outdoor or marine connections, use CorrosionX for lasting protection. Metal-on-metal sliding (guide rails) Silicone spray or dry PTFE Oil attracts grit in workshop environments. Dry film preferred. Marine fittings and rigging INOX MX3 or CorrosionX Salt-resistant formulation essential. Food processing machinery Lanox (INOX MX7) or NSF H1 lubricant Legal and HACCP requirement. No petroleum products. High-load fastener assembly Anti-seize compound (Molytec, Loctite) Prevents seizing on reassembly. Different application, different timing. Rusty tools — clean and protect CRC 5-56 or WD-40 to clean, INOX MX3 for storage protection Two-step: clean the rust, then apply a protective coat. Cable inners and brake cables Dry PTFE spray Oil lubricants collect grit inside cable housing and cause premature wear. Locks and padlocks Dry PTFE or graphite spray Oil lubricants gum up lock internals over time. Rubber seals and O-rings Silicone spray Petroleum solvents degrade rubber compounds. Silicone is compatible with most seal rubbers. Plastic sliding or moving parts Silicone spray Petroleum solvents can craze some plastics. How to Use Penetrating Oil on Seized Bolts and Rusted Fasteners The majority of penetrating oil failures are technique failures, not product failures. The single most common mistake is applying the product and trying to turn the fastener within 30 seconds. Penetrating oil requires time to work. Penetrating oil is the foundation of every fastener removal procedure. For the dedicated stud and broken-fastener removal techniques (cam-grip extractors, weld-a-nut method, drilling out), see our Stud Extractor Guide; if extraction damages the parent thread, our Stripped Thread Repair Guide covers the Recoil and Helicoil thread insert recovery. Step 1: Clean the area Remove loose rust, dirt, and grease from around the fastener before applying penetrant. The fluid needs to reach the thread contact interface — surface contamination slows penetration. A wire brush or rag is sufficient. Step 2: Apply at the thread interface Direct the spray at the point where the fastener enters the nut or casting — the thread contact line — not just the head of the bolt. If it has a nut, spray both the top and bottom thread interfaces. Penetrant needs to wick into the gap between male and female thread. Step 3: Wait — this is the critical step Minimum wait for mild rust: 15–20 minutes. Heavy corrosion: reapply every 20 minutes for 2–4 hours. Severely seized fasteners: reapply and leave overnight. The capillary action that drives penetrant into the thread gap is slow. Impatience is the primary cause of stripped bolt heads and broken fasteners. Step 4: Apply heat if available Heat expands metal and opens the joint, allowing penetrant to wick deeper. Use a gas torch or heat gun — not an open flame near aerosol penetrant. Apply heat to the nut (outer component), not the bolt where possible. Allow the joint to cool slightly before attempting to turn — the contraction cycle helps break the rust bond. Do not apply aerosol penetrant to a component that is still hot. Step 5: Apply shock and work back-and-forth An impact wrench (rattle gun) is more effective than sustained hand torque — the shock loading disrupts the rust bond rather than just applying continuous rotational force that strips the head. If using hand tools, apply a sharp hammer blow to the head of the bolt before using the wrench. Work the fastener in both directions rather than trying to undo it in one continuous rotation — tighten slightly, then loosen. The alternating motion scrubs corrosion off the thread contact surfaces. Step 6: When it still will not move Options: a longer overnight soak, a nut splitter (cuts the nut off without damaging the stud), a bolt extractor (left-hand drill bit and extractor socket for broken bolts), or cutting and welding a new nut onto a rounded fastener. If the screw won't turn because it's a one-way (clutch-head) security screw rather than a seized one, no amount of soaking or heat will help — see our One-Way Screw Removal Guide for the removal methods that actually work on these. Once free, apply anti-seize compound on reassembly to prevent recurrence. See the Anti-Seize Compound Guide and note that torque values for dry threads do not apply directly when anti-seize is used. For thread locking and sealing information see also the Thread Locking & Sealing Guide. Silicone Spray Lubricant: What It Is and When to Use It Silicone spray is not a penetrating oil and not a general-purpose lubricant substitute for WD-40 — it deposits a silicone polymer film that's petroleum-free, non-greasy and safe on rubber, vinyl and most plastics, making it the right choice for door and window seals, tracks and runners, conveyor belts and plastic-on-plastic contact. Keep it away from anything due to be painted or glued, and away from electrical switches and connector contacts. For the full picture — properties, application technique, food-grade options, and exactly where it should and shouldn't go — see our Silicone Spray Guide. Dry Lubricant Spray: Best Applications Dry lubricant sprays are underused in Australian workshops — partly because they are less familiar, partly because the invisible dry film makes people assume they have not worked. They are essential where oil-based lubricants attract contaminants or leave unacceptable residue. How dry PTFE spray works PTFE particles suspended in a fast-evaporating carrier solvent. Apply, wait 5–10 minutes for the solvent to evaporate, and a dry, invisible PTFE film remains. PTFE has one of the lowest friction coefficients of any solid material. The film is dry — it does not attract dust, grit, or metal particles. In dusty environments, a wet lubricant can turn into an abrasive paste of oil and airborne particles; a dry PTFE film lubricates without creating a contamination trap. Best applications Cable inners: Inner wire cables in machinery, bicycle brake and gear cables, vehicle handbrake cables. Apply to the inner wire before threading through the housing. Locks and padlocks: The correct lubricant for lock mechanisms. Oil lubricants dissolve factory grease in pin tumblers and collect dirt — over time making locks stiffer. PTFE spray or graphite powder is the standard lock lubricant. Bicycle chains (dry conditions): On gravel, trail, and dry-road bicycles, PTFE dry chain lube keeps the drivetrain clean. Switch to wet chain lube in wet or muddy conditions. Woodworking jig tables and fences: Dry film on cast iron table surfaces keeps workpieces sliding smoothly without oil contamination of the timber. Drawer slides, sewing machine mechanisms, precision equipment: Applications where cleanliness and residue-free lubrication matter. Not suitable for high-load applications (insufficient film strength) or wet/muddy conditions where the film washes off. Product Comparison: WD-40, 3-in-1, CRC 5-56, INOX MX3, Silicone Spray Product Type Primary Use Rubber/Plastic Safe Food Safe Long-Term Protection WD-40 Original Multipurpose penetrant/WD Moisture displacement, light penetration Limited No Poor — evaporates CRC 5-56 Penetrating oil / WD Penetration, moisture displacement Limited No Fair INOX MX3 Penetrant + corrosion inhibitor Penetration + lasting corrosion protection Yes (check SDS) No Good INOX Lanox MX7 Food-grade penetrant/lubricant Food processing, agriculture Yes Yes — H1 Good CorrosionX Penetrant + corrosion inhibitor Marine, aviation, severe environments Yes No Excellent 3-in-1 Oil Light machine oil General lubrication, hinges, sewing machines No (petroleum) No Fair — heavier than WD-40 Silicone spray Silicone lubricant Rubber, plastic, tracks, seals Yes No (check product) Good Rocol Dry PTFE Dry lubricant (PTFE) Cables, locks, clean environments Yes Some grades yes Moderate Molytec products Anti-seize / assembly lubricant High-load fastener assembly, extreme pressure Depends on grade Some grades Very good WD-40 vs 3-in-1 Oil 3-in-1 Oil (originally a blend of oil, lubricant, and rust preventive) is a light machine oil with a heavier base oil than WD-40's light mineral oil. For lubrication of precision mechanisms, hinges, and light machinery, 3-in-1 is a better choice than WD-40 because its heavier oil does not evaporate as quickly. For penetrating rust and displacing moisture, WD-40 is the better choice. Neither is suitable for heavy-duty lubrication or hostile environments. For a broader overview of industrial lubricant types and selection criteria, refer to the Industrial Lubricants Guide. Penetrating Oil Safety and Storage Aerosol penetrating oils and spray lubricants contain petroleum-based solvents and pressurised propellants. Standard precautions apply. Flammability: Most aerosol penetrants — WD-40, CRC 5-56, INOX MX3 — are flammable. Do not apply near open flames, welding arcs, or grinding sparks. Aerosol cans must not exceed 50°C. CorrosionX has a higher flash point and is classified as non-flammable in aerosol form in most jurisdictions — check the SDS. Ventilation: Aerosol mist in a confined space creates an inhalation risk from petroleum solvent vapours. Use in well-ventilated areas. In enclosed spaces (vessel interiors, pits, confined workshops), provide mechanical ventilation and wear respiratory protection for organic solvent vapours. The relevant Australian standard for confined space entry is AS 2865. Skin and eye contact: Wash skin thoroughly after prolonged contact — use a workshop industrial hand cleaner (citrus or walnut-shell formulation) rather than dish soap; petroleum distillates strip the skin lipid barrier on contact. Nitrile gloves provide adequate protection for most spray lubricant handling. For eye contact, flush with clean water for at least 15 minutes and seek medical assessment. Storage: Store upright in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and ignition sources. Partially full cans are hazardous waste — do not place in general waste or recycling. Empty cans can be recycled via most council kerbside programs. SDS documents for all products stocked at AIMS Industrial are available on request. Frequently Asked Questions What is penetrating oil used for? Penetrating oil is used to free seized, rusted, or corroded fasteners and joints — bolts, nuts, hinges, and pivots that have corroded together and cannot be turned by normal force. It contains solvents and surfactants that wick into the microscopic gap between corroded metal surfaces and break the rust bond. Secondary uses include moisture displacement from electrical connections, light corrosion protection on bare metal, and cleaning adhesive residue. Penetrating oil is not a long-term lubricant — use a proper grease or oil-based lubricant for ongoing lubrication needs. Is WD-40 a penetrating oil or a lubricant? WD-40 is primarily a water-displacement fluid and light penetrating oil. The name stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula." It does provide short-term lubrication through a light mineral oil component, and WD-40's own website acknowledges this. However, that mineral oil evaporates relatively quickly, so WD-40 Original is not suitable as a long-term lubricant for chains, bearings, hinges, or any application requiring a lasting film. For long-term lubrication, use a dedicated lubricant — white lithium grease, chain lube, grease, or machine oil depending on the application. What is the difference between WD-40 and 3-in-1 Oil? WD-40 is primarily a water-displacement penetrant — it excels at displacing moisture and freeing mildly corroded components, but its light oil evaporates and does not provide lasting lubrication. 3-in-1 Oil is a light machine oil with a heavier base oil that persists longer as a lubricant. For penetrating rust and moisture displacement, WD-40 is the better choice. For lubricating precision mechanisms, sewing machines, hinges, and light machinery where a thin, persistent oil is appropriate, 3-in-1 is a better choice than WD-40. Neither product is suitable for heavy-duty lubrication or harsh environments. Is CRC 5-56 the same as WD-40? CRC 5-56 and WD-40 Original are similar in function — both are petroleum-based water-displacement penetrating oils — but they are different products with different formulations. CRC 5-56 has slightly better corrosion inhibition in its carrier oil and is preferred in Australian trade environments, particularly by electricians and maintenance fitters. WD-40 has greater consumer brand recognition. For most standard penetrating and moisture-displacement tasks, either product is acceptable. For better corrosion protection or more demanding penetration, INOX MX3 outperforms both. What is INOX MX3 used for? INOX MX3 is an Australian-made penetrating oil, lubricant, and corrosion inhibitor in one product. It is used for freeing seized and rusted fasteners, displacing moisture from electrical connections, protecting metal surfaces from corrosion, lubricating hinges and pivots, and maintaining marine and agricultural equipment. Its primary advantage over WD-40 and CRC 5-56 is a less volatile carrier oil that provides lasting corrosion protection after application, rather than evaporating and leaving bare metal. INOX MX3 is generally safe on rubber and most plastics (check the product SDS for specific polymer compatibility). When should I use silicone spray instead of WD-40? Use silicone spray instead of WD-40 when the surface is rubber, plastic or vinyl, or when you need a long-lasting, non-greasy film rather than a penetrant that evaporates. Typical applications are door and window seals, tracks and runners, and conveyor belts. Don't use it near paint, adhesive or electrical switching contacts. See our Silicone Spray Guide for full application guidance, food-grade options and where it should and shouldn't go. Can I use WD-40 as a long-term lubricant? No. WD-40 Original is not suitable as a long-term lubricant. The light mineral oil component evaporates within hours, leaving inadequate lubrication and, in some cases, bare metal that is more susceptible to rust than before. For long-term lubrication, choose the product appropriate to the application: white lithium grease spray for metal hinges and sliders, chain lube for chains, silicone spray for rubber and plastic tracks, or grease for bearings and heavily loaded pivots. The WD-40 Specialist range includes purpose-built lubricants that are far more suitable for sustained lubrication than WD-40 Original. What is the best penetrating oil for seized bolts? For lightly corroded fasteners, CRC 5-56 or WD-40 Specialist Penetrant perform adequately. For heavily seized or badly rusted fasteners, INOX MX3 or CorrosionX provide better penetration combined with corrosion protection after the joint is freed. The technique matters as much as the product: apply generously, wait at least 20 minutes (2–4 hours for severe corrosion), reapply, apply heat if possible, and use an impact wrench rather than sustained hand torque. Overnight soaking with multiple applications is the most effective approach for heavily corroded fasteners. What is dry lubricant spray best used for? Dry lubricant spray (PTFE/Teflon-based) is best used in applications where wet lubricants attract contaminating dust, grit, or debris. Common applications include cable inners and cable housings, locks and padlocks, bicycle chains in dry/dusty conditions, woodworking jig table surfaces, drawer slides in dusty workshops, and sewing machine mechanisms. The PTFE film is dry and invisible — it lubricates effectively without leaving a sticky residue. It is not suitable for high-load metal-on-metal contact or wet/muddy environments where the film would wash away. Is INOX food safe? INOX MX3 (the standard product) is not food safe — it contains petroleum-based components and should not be used in food-processing environments. INOX Lanox MX7 is the food-safe version: it carries H1 lubricant registration, is approved for incidental food contact, and meets FDA, USDA, and Australian food safety requirements. Lanox does not contain petroleum distillates. For any maintenance spray application in a food-processing facility, beverage plant, or food-handling environment, use Lanox MX7 or another NSF H1-registered product. How long should I leave penetrating oil on a rusted bolt? At minimum, 15–20 minutes for mildly rusted fasteners. For moderate corrosion, reapply every 20 minutes over 2–4 hours. For severely seized bolts — rusted solid or corroded into a casting — apply generously and leave overnight, reapplying before bed and again in the morning before attempting to turn. Most penetrating oil failures are the result of trying to turn the fastener within the first 30–60 seconds. The capillary action that drives penetrant into the thread gap requires time. Patience is the most effective penetrating oil technique. Can I use penetrating oil on bicycle chains? No — do not use penetrating oils such as WD-40 or CRC 5-56 as regular bicycle chain lubricants. Penetrating oils strip the factory lubricant from inside the chain's rollers and pins, leave a thin film that evaporates quickly, and leave the chain worse off than before. Use a purpose-formulated bicycle chain lubricant: dry chain lube (PTFE/wax-based) for dry and dusty conditions, or wet chain lube (oil-based) for wet weather and heavy-duty riding. If you have used WD-40 to clean a chain, allow it to evaporate fully, then apply a proper chain lubricant before riding. What is penetrating oil used for? Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity lubricant designed to creep into the narrow gaps between rusted, seized or corroded fasteners. It works by capillary action — wicking into the thread gap and breaking down rust at the contact surfaces — so that a stuck nut, bolt or fitting can be freed without snapping the fastener. Common uses include freeing rusted bolts on cars and trucks, releasing seized fittings in plumbing and pneumatics, and freeing rusted pins and bushes in agricultural equipment. How long does penetrating oil need to soak? Soak time depends on how badly the fastener is seized. For lightly stuck fasteners, a few minutes is usually enough. Heavily rusted fasteners benefit from soaking for an hour or overnight, with the oil reapplied periodically as it wicks into the joint. Tapping the fastener lightly with a hammer while soaking helps the oil work into the thread gap. Don't rush — patience here saves a broken bolt. Is WD-40 a penetrating oil? WD-40 is a multi-purpose water-displacing spray that has some penetrating action, but it is not as effective as dedicated penetrating oils on heavily seized fasteners. Products specifically formulated as penetrating oils have lower surface tension and better capillary action for getting into rust. WD-40 works fine for light tasks but for badly seized bolts, use a dedicated penetrant designed for the job. Can penetrating oil damage paint or rubber? Penetrating oils based on solvents can soften some paints and degrade some rubber components if left in contact for extended periods. Wipe off any overspray promptly and avoid spraying near rubber seals, hoses or painted surfaces unless the product is specifically marked as compatible. For applications near sensitive materials, choose a penetrant marked as safe on plastic and rubber. Shop Penetrating Oils and Spray Lubricants at AIMS Industrial AIMS Industrial stocks a full range of penetrating oils, spray lubricants, and maintenance sprays for trade and industrial use — including CRC, INOX MX3, INOX Lanox, CorrosionX, Rocol, Molytec, Dy-Mark, and Helmar products. Browse the complete range, available for trade ordering and delivery across Australia. Shop Penetrating Oils & Spray Lubricants at AIMS Industrial → For guidance on the broader range of industrial lubricants — greases, hydraulic oils, gear oils, and cutting fluids — see the Industrial Lubricants Guide. For hydraulic system-specific oil selection, see the Hydraulic Oil Guide. The full lubrication product range at AIMS covers everything from aerosol sprays to bulk drum supply. Pair this with cable-protection gear — see the AIMS grommets collection.
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Weld Like A Pro With CRC Weld-Aid®
The new and improved Weld-Aid® product range is “engineered to improve your welding productivity”, so you can do easier and cleaner welds. They are specifically designed for MIG welding. Nozzle-Kleen Nozzle-Dip HD Nozzle-Kleen #2 Weld-Kleen Weld-Kleen HD Weld-Kleen Anti-Spatter 350 Lube-Matic Wire Kleener and Lubricant Kleener Pads (Red) Lube Pads (Black) Combo Pack (Red and Black) Nozzle-Kleen This product group consists of the Nozzle Dip HD and Nozzle Kleen #2. These are engineered to prevent, reduce and remove spatter build-up on your welder nozzles, tips and diffusers, so you can use them longer. Nozzle-Dip HD It will neither clog your torch, nor contaminate your weld like petroleum jelly (from which most conventional nozzle dips are made), thanks to its unique water-based gel formulation. More benefits: Effectively cools your nozzles and tips Reduces spatter build-up Works on both hot and cold torches Does not drift into the liner Water-based Biodegradable Non-flammable Non-hazardous Non-flashing Non-toxic Paintable Buy the CRC Nozzle-Dip HD. Nozzle-Kleen #2 All you need is a light spray of "the world’s best-selling anti-spatter aerosol” on the nozzle, and you can start welding right away. More benefits: Can be used even on surfaces to be welded Spatter can easily be wiped away No need to scrape or grind the finish Leaves less smoke and odor Dries quickly Does not contain fluorocarbons Non-flammable Paintable Buy the CRC Nozzle-Kleen #2. Weld-Kleen This product group consists of the Weld-Kleen HD and Weld-Kleen Anti-Spatter 350. Use them if you want to spend more time welding and less time on grinding and cleaning up spatter. Weld-Kleen HD It protects your welder’s parts as well as your clamps, tooling and other fixtures with its heavy-duty base metal treatment. More benefits: Accepts pre-heating Dries quickly Non-flammable Paintable Buy the CRC Weld-Kleen HD. Weld-Kleen Anti-Spatter 350 It has a “superior performance versus other water-based anti-spatters". More benefits: Available in non-pressurized and pressurized (aerosol) dispensers Spatter just wipes away (no need to scrape and grind) Effective for use in torch blow-down systems Ready to use, no need to mix Environmentally friendly Biodegradable Non-hazardous Non-toxic Paintable Buy the CRC Weld-Kleen Anti-Spatter 350. Lube-Matic This product group consists of the Wire Kleener and Lubricant and Kleener Pads. Use them if you want to improve the lifespan of your tips and liners for up to 300%. Wire Kleener and Lubricant This easy-to-use welding wire cleaner and lubricant is designed to promote smoother wire feeding (specifically, fabricated and mild steel wires) by reducing drag and friction from the feeder to your welder. It is applied to Kleener Pads as needed (see below). More benefits: Decreases downtime caused by wire jamming Helps feed fabricated and mild steel wires Reduces wire drag by up to 60% Removes dirt Cuts rusts Buy the CRC Wire Kleener and Lubricant. Kleener Pads (Red) and Lube Pads (Black) Applied with the Wire Kleener and Lubricant, these pads will help keep your wires thoroughly cleaned and lubricated to maximise your torch’s effectiveness and lifespan. You can buy them separately or as a bundle. More benefits of Kleener Pads (Red): Reduce burnback by up to 50% Effective for all wire types Excellent with aluminium Buy the CRC Kleener Pads (Red). More benefits of Lube Pads (Black): Effective pre-treatment for smoother feeding of wires with poor cast, helix and rust Good for long feed liners Best used for the pre-treatment of wires Can be used on all types of steel wires (but not recommended with aluminium) Buy the CRC Lube Pads (Black). *Need help with a purchase decision? Contact us directly via chat or send an email to sales@aimsindustrial.com.au or call us on (02) 9773 0122 Need welding gear? The AIMS Welding collection covers everything from entry-level inverters to multiprocess welders. AIMS stocks a comprehensive Lubrication collection — Loctite, Anglomoil, Macnaught, Triple7 and CRC products. Looking for butt weld fittings? Our butt weld fittings range covers the common sizes and brands. People Also Ask — Weld Aid Anti-Spatter Products Q: What does weld spatter protection spray do? Weld anti-spatter spray is applied to the workpiece and surrounding areas before welding to prevent molten metal droplets from adhering to the surface. After welding, spatter falls away cleanly instead of bonding to the steel, dramatically reducing post-weld clean-up time and protecting adjacent surfaces from surface contamination. Q: Can weld anti-spatter be used inside the MIG gun nozzle? Yes, nozzle-dip anti-spatter products are specifically formulated for applying to or dipping the MIG gun nozzle to prevent spatter build-up inside the nozzle and on the contact tip. This extends nozzle and tip life, maintains shielding gas flow and reduces downtime for nozzle cleaning during extended welding operations. Q: Is weld anti-spatter spray safe to use on stainless steel? Standard petroleum or silicone-based anti-spatter products should not be used on stainless steel that will be painted or coated afterward, as silicone contamination causes fish-eye defects in coatings. Water-based or silicone-free anti-spatter products are available specifically for stainless steel applications. Q: How should anti-spatter spray be applied for best results? Apply a thin, even coat to the workpiece surface before welding, allowing it to flash off briefly if specified by the manufacturer. Avoid spraying directly onto the weld zone or joint gap as this can contaminate the weld and cause porosity. Nozzle dip products should coat the inside of the nozzle without blocking the gas outlet holes.
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Does the CRC Evapo-Rust Really Work
CRC Evapo-Rust is a best-seller for many reasons. In this article, we answer these questions: What’s your opinion about the product? Does the CRC Evapo-Rust really work? How does it work? How much do I need to use? Do I need to fully submerge the whole item, or just the rusted surfaces? Will it corrode the rusted metal and other non-metal components? How long do I need to soak the rusted metal in it? Do I need to sand or scrub the rusted item after soaking it in? Can I reuse the liquid solution? Is it flammable? Is it harmful, hazardous and toxic? Feedback from users in real-life applications Disclaimer: The information compiled here is based on actual experience and diligent research. Nevertheless, it should not be treated as professional advice. As always, read the label and proceed with caution. What’s your opinion about the product? One Friday afternoon, our Sales Manager, Sam, soaked a bunch of rusted sprockets in Evapo-Rust solution. He took photos of the progress of what happened after soaking them (1) after two hours and (2) over the weekend. (He also brought a pair of pliers riddled with saltwater rust, which we also covered further below.) Quick verdict: Evapo-Rust works! Rusts gone. Here are the rusted sprockets before soaking. As you can see, some of them are heavily rusted on the surface, while some are not: Here they are after being soaked in pure Evapo-Rust after two hours: Comparison of the “untreated” (top-half) and “treated” (bottom-half) after being soaked for two hours: Here they are after being soaked into pure Evapo-Rust over the weekend: Most came off visibly “rust-free” after some thorough wiping, although Sam had to lightly steel-brush a few ones “to speed up the process” and get the same rust-free result. According to Sam: “I used CRC Evapo-Rust with some great results. The photos are time-lapse as well to show the different results. In short, the longer we leave product in solution, the better the results.” “Rusty sprockets will pose a problem if they are installed as they are. They will work, but the addition of grease will contaminate the lubricant and add to chain and sprocket wear. The trick is to keep the lubricant clear of any contaminants and prolonging the life of all wearing parts. Rust also destroys surface hardness and will accelerate wear." Does the CRC Evapo-Rust really work? The quick answer is a yes. It is designed to do one job -- remove rust -- and it does it well, provided, of course, that you use it properly and according to instruction. Here’s the CRC Evapo-Rust in action: It “effectively removes even deep rust on all types of mild steels and iron”. According to the technical data sheet, you should use the product as follows: Pre-clean item to remove oil and dirt. Rinse item and immerse item fully in Evapo-Rust for 20 minutes. Check progress periodically. Once rust is removed, rinse the item with water. To prevent re-rusting, simply dip the item back in Evapo-Rust solution and allow it to dry. Note: Deeply rusted parts (5 mm or deeper) may require overnight soaking. Evapo-Rust can be used over and over until performance drops off. When ready to dispose of spent solution, only the iron content of the solution will dictate disposal method. In most cases, it can be safely put down the drain. How does it work? EVAPO-RUST® works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Most chelating agents bind many different metals. The active ingredient in EVAPO-RUST® bonds to iron exclusively. It can remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly. Once the chelating agent has removed the iron, a sulfur-bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelator and forms a ferric sulfate complex which remains water soluble. This frees the chelating agent to remove more iron from rust. More tips from the technical data sheet c/o crceurope.com: If EVAPO-RUST® is used below 15°C, cleaning times will be extended. Warmer temperatures will improve rust removal capabilities. Store cool (above 0°C) and dry. How much do I need to use? That depends a lot on: Which product you are using: the spray gel or the liquid solution How many items you want to de-rust How rusted are the items in question How long you "soak” the items in its chemical While both the spray gel and liquid solution basically have the same formulation, the spray gel “clings” to the surface of the item in question so there’s no need to soak it. If you have the liquid solution, use it pure and undiluted. It’s ready to use right off the bottle, and there is no need to mix with water. In Sam’s experiment, he took a 5-litre Evapo-Rust solution container to fully submerge around 100 kilograms of sprockets of various sizes. (Fun fact: According to Microsoft Word, 100 kilograms is around the weight of an average professional basketball player.) Sam said he was able to “salvage back in the container about ¾ of the Evapo-Rust solution”. Do I need to fully submerge the whole item, or just the rusted surfaces? You only need to submerge the rusted areas. If the whole item is badly rusted all over, then yes, you’ll want to submerge it altogether, especially if it’s badly eaten by rust just like the tools and components in this video by CRC NZ: Will it corrode the rusted metal and other non-metal components? EVAPO-RUST® is safe to use on (not harmful to): Aluminium Brass Copper Non-oxide-based paints Plastics PVCs Rubber Vinyl In fact, Sam has another example, this time with his rusty pliers -- that he uses for fishing, so it is riddled with saltwater rust -- that are seized up and wouldn't spring open. After soaking them in 're-used' EVAPO-RUST® solution for two hours a soaking and a some mild cleaning up with a wire brush, he was happy with the result: How long do I need to soak the rusted metal in it? That depends a lot on how badly rusted parts are. In Sam’s experiment, the sprockets’ surfaces were significantly “rust-free” after a two-hour soak in pure EVAPO-RUST® but note that they are not heavily rusted to begin with. (He waited it out for another two days.) Do I need to sand or scrub the rusted item after soaking it in? Sam had to lightly brush off a few sprockets to achieve the desired result. Can I reuse the liquid solution? According to CRC’s video above, the technical data sheet and Sam's pliers example, yes you can reuse the solution “until the performance drops off”. Is it flammable? It is “non-caustic”, “non-flammable” and “contains no flammable materials”. We reckon the same is true for the liquid solution. However, keep in mind that it’s still a chemical product best kept away from obvious heat sources and open flames. Is it harmful, hazardous and toxic? Please use common sense and observe safety precautions when using the product, but for the record: According to the backside label of both the spray gel and liquid solution, they are “not classified as toxic material”, do not contain “acids, alkalis and petroleum” and are not harmful to the user and the environment. According to the safety data sheets of both the spray gel and liquid solution, they are “not classified as hazardous” as per Safe Work Australia criteria. According to the technical data sheet, they are “safe to use” and contain “no acids, hazardous air pollutants (HAPs) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs)”. Both have no strong fumes and odours that can cause irritation under normal conditions. Of course, it’s always best to take extra precautions if you have relevant pre-existing allergies and respiratory conditions. It has no food safety certification, although you can use it on parts of food equipment as long as it doesn’t directly come into contact with the food itself. Make sure to wash it off and dry completely before use. Buy Evapo-Rust now. Feedback: Ken H from Perth shared his experience with the CRC Evapo-Rust: "I have used it on a couple of things, and have had brilliant results. I have just restored two old motorcycles to "as new" condition, and for most of the components a wire buff or grit blasting worked well. But there are a few components which were too delicate for that. One in particular was the tool box on my 1963 A10 BSA. The sheet steel it is made from is too old/delicate to use grit blasting. The corners and confines make the wire wheel either inaccessible, or dangerous, as it catches on edges. Any acidic medium (if left too long) would dissolve it. Now, these tool boxes are NO LONGER AVAILABLE. They make them in India, and they are either poor quality or just don't fit. Too hit and miss. A second hand one in terrible condition (worse than mine was) sells for $300 - $400 AUD. So I HAD to save mine. Evapo-Rust was safe, and can be left as long as you like, as it DOES NOT DISSOLVE BASE METAL. The greatest point to remember is that Evapo-Rust saturates during use, and it does not convect / self-circulate. So, it will turn black (in areas close to the rust surface) as it absorbs rust, and then stays there against the surface / will not absorb any more. Once saturated, it is no longer of any use = dispose of it. The best way is to either "stir / circulate" the liquid, or (in a corner where the liquid is "black" and thus saturated) drawn off with a syringe and disposed of / allow unsaturated liquid to continue to work. See the attached pictures. Before and after: That tool box had sat on that bike for 40 years and had bad chrome with rust pitting under it, rust inside. Evaopo-Rust cleaned it enough for priming and painting. I also used it on a Triumph Stag bumper (very hard to get, they make replacements which are nowhere near as good as the original) to remove rust from the rear of it before preservation. The outside is chrome, but the inside barely treated, so they rust. The Evapo-Rust removes the inside surface rust, with no damage to existing chrome. It is a brilliant product. People Also Ask — Does the CRC Evapo-Rust Really Work Q: How does Evapo-Rust work to remove rust? Evapo-Rust uses selective chelation — a process where chelating agents bond to iron oxide (rust) molecules and hold them in solution, lifting them off the base metal without attacking the underlying iron or steel. It is water-based, non-toxic, non-flammable, and biodegradable. Unlike acid-based rust removers, it does not etch bare metal, making it safer for use on precision parts. That's a different mechanism entirely to a rust converter, which doesn't lift rust away at all — it chemically reacts with rust left in place and turns it into a stable, paintable compound. See AIMS's Rust Converter Guide for when that approach makes more sense than soaking or removal. Q: How long should I soak parts in Evapo-Rust? Light rust (surface oxidation): 30 minutes to 2 hours. Moderate rust: 4–8 hours. Heavy rust with pitting: overnight or up to 24 hours. Agitation (brushing or sloshing every hour) speeds up the process. Parts must be fully submerged. The solution turns dark brown as it absorbs rust — it can be reused until it stops working effectively (typically after removing approximately 300 g of rust per litre). Q: What is the best CRC product for long-term rust protection? For long-term storage protection, CRC SP-400 or CRC Dry Film PTFE provide durable barrier protection. For active corrosion prevention in wet or marine environments, CRC SP-350 (a heavy wax-based inhibitor) is preferred. CRC 2-26 is excellent for moisture displacement and contact protection but provides limited long-term film durability — apply monthly in harsh environments. Q: Can I use Evapo-Rust on chrome or aluminium parts? Evapo-Rust is safe on steel and iron and will not damage chrome plating, aluminium, copper, brass, solder, or most plastics during normal soak times (up to 24 hours). However, it is not effective at removing rust from aluminium — aluminium forms aluminium oxide, not iron oxide, and the chelating agents in Evapo-Rust are selective to iron. For aluminium oxidation, use an aluminium-specific cleaner.Is Evapo-Rust reusable? Yes — Evapo-Rust is a selective rust remover that keeps working until it's saturated with dissolved iron, so one batch can treat several rounds of parts before it stops working. Strain out debris between uses and store it sealed. Its effectiveness drops as it loads up with rust, so top up or replace it when parts stop coming out clean. See the CRC range. Is Evapo-Rust safe on paint, rubber and plastic? Evapo-Rust is water-based and non-acidic, so it only attacks rust and leaves sound paint, rubber, plastic and most non-ferrous surfaces alone — a key advantage over acid rust removers that can etch and damage. That makes it useful for parts with mixed materials. Rinse and dry parts after treatment, since freshly cleaned bare steel will flash-rust if left wet. For a general overview see our rust remover guide. How do I dispose of used Evapo-Rust? Because it's water-based, biodegradable and non-corrosive, small workshop quantities are far easier to handle than spent acid — but the dissolved iron means you should still follow your local trade-waste rules rather than assuming it can go straight down the drain. Check the product safety data sheet and your council or water-authority requirements for the correct disposal route.
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