Buy Extraction Removal Tools Online in Australia
When a bolt shears off flush with the casting, a screw head strips before it breaks free, or a Recoil-style thread insert spins loose in its hole, you need a proper screw extractor set on the bench — not a chisel and a lot of hope. AIMS Industrial stocks a genuine trade-grade range of screw extractors, stud pullers, stud removers and thread insert extraction tools from Champion, Bordo, Sutton Tools, P&N, Recoil, Ko-Ken, Trax, Stahlwille and Hansa, so whatever's snapped, stripped or seized in your job, there's a tool in this range built to get it out cleanly. Not sure which one suits your job? Our Stud Extractor Guide: Removing Broken Studs & Bolts covers selection in detail.
This collection covers the full spread of fastener extraction and removal work: reverse-fluted "Easy-Out" style screw extractors for broken bolts and studs, square taper extractors for stubborn or rounded screws, socket-drive screw and stud pullers for cylinder head studs and exhaust manifold studs, dedicated thread insert extraction tools for damaged wire inserts, one-way security screw removal tools, and the left-hand drill bits that go with most extractor sets. It's built for mechanics, fitters, maintenance techs and engineers who need to recover a broken fastener without wrecking the surrounding thread, the casting, or the job timeline.
All 41 products in this range are genuine stock lines carried by AIMS Industrial — real brands, real specifications, no guesswork. If you're not sure which extractor suits your job, our team in Sydney is happy to talk you through it.
Extraction tool types at a glance
Not every broken fastener needs the same tool. Use this table to narrow down which style of extractor suits the job in front of you.
| Tool type | Best for | How it works | Brands in this range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reverse-fluted (Easy-Out style) screw extractors | Broken bolts, studs and screws snapped off flush or below the surface | A pilot hole is drilled into the broken fastener, the tapered reverse-cut flutes are driven in, and anticlockwise turning force bites the flutes into the metal as it backs the fastener out | Sutton Tools (Easy-Out), Champion, P&N |
| Square taper screw extractors | Broken or rounded screws where a direct, non-drilled grip is preferred | A tapered square shank is driven or tapped into the fastener and turned with a spanner or tap wrench | Bordo |
| Socket-drive screw & stud pullers | Broken or seized studs, especially cylinder head and exhaust manifold studs | A socket-drive tool grips the stud so a ratchet or torque wrench can apply controlled, even extraction force | Ko-Ken, Trax, Stahlwille |
| Straight rod stud extractors | Studs with enough protrusion above the surface to engage a rod-style extractor | A knurled or cammed rod locks onto the exposed stud thread as it's turned | Trax |
| Thread insert extraction tools | Damaged, cross-threaded or incorrectly installed wire thread inserts | A notched tip engages inside the insert coil and winds it out without damaging the parent thread | Recoil |
| One-way (anti-theft) screw removal tools | Tamper-resistant, one-way security screws that a standard driver can't back out | A reverse-cutting tip engages the single-slot head and drives it anticlockwise | Champion |
| Impact-rated bolt extractor sockets | Rounded or damaged bolt heads and nuts, used with an impact wrench | A spiral internal profile grips the rounded fastener under impact torque | Bordo |
| Removal pins & splined nuts | Splined and other internal-drive fasteners not suited to a standard socket | A socket-drive pin matched to the splined profile allows controlled removal and re-installation | Stahlwille |
| Left-hand stub drills | Pre-drilling a broken fastener before extraction — and sometimes backing it out on their own | The reverse flute can catch and unwind the fastener during drilling, before the extractor is even needed | Included in most Sutton Tools and Bordo extractor sets |
How to choose the right screw extractor set
Getting a broken fastener out in one piece comes down to matching the tool to the job and working the process in the right order. A few things to check before you buy:
- Match the extractor to the fastener diameter, not the drill bit you happen to have. Every screw extractor set is sized to a specific range of fastener diameters — the packaging or spec sheet for each set states the range it covers. Sutton Tools' Easy-Out sets run from a 5-piece #1–#5 set (M603S15) up to a 6-piece #1–#6 set (M603S15A) and 10-piece sets with left-hand or right-hand drills included (M603S20 / M603S20L). P&N's carbon steel sets cover a stated 3–18 mm range. Recoil's RC50003 insert extraction tool covers M4–M24 (Nc#6–1) thread inserts in a single tool.
- Drill the correct pilot hole first. For reverse-fluted extractors, a pilot hole is drilled into the centre of the broken fastener to the diameter specified for that extractor size, before the extractor itself is driven in.
- Always turn anticlockwise, and don't force it. Reverse-cut flutes bite in as anticlockwise torque is applied. Forcing an extractor that's not engaging properly risks snapping the extractor itself inside the hole — which is a harder problem than the one you started with.
- Consider a socket-drive puller for studs, not screws. Where a stud is snapped flush or below the surface, a socket-drive stud puller (Ko-Ken, Trax, Stahlwille) lets you apply controlled torque with a ratchet or torque wrench rather than hammering in a tapered extractor. Where enough of the stud protrudes above the surface, a straight rod extractor (Trax ZW-3, ZW-4) can grip the exposed thread directly.
- Heat and penetrating oil help on seized fasteners. For badly corroded or seized fasteners, apply penetrating oil and heat before attempting extraction — this reduces the load on the extractor and lowers the risk of it snapping.
- Match drive size to your ratchet or torque wrench. Ko-Ken's screw/stud pullers are available in 1/2" and 3/4" drive — pick the drive size that matches the torque tool you already have on the bench.
Left-hand drill bits: why they're included in extractor sets
Most Sutton Tools and Bordo screw extractor sets include a left-hand stub drill alongside the extractors themselves, and it's not just a convenient accessory. A left-hand drill bit cuts in the opposite rotational direction to a standard drill bit. When you drill into a broken, seized fastener with a left-hand bit running in a normal (clockwise-set) drill, the flutes can catch on the fastener as they cut — and because the bit is turning in the "unscrewing" direction relative to a right-hand thread, this sometimes backs the fastener straight out during drilling, before the extractor is ever used.
It doesn't happen every time — a badly corroded or over-tight fastener may still need the extractor to finish the job — but it's a genuinely useful first step, and it's why the two tools are packaged together. Drill on a slow speed with cutting oil, keep the bit centred, and be ready for the fastener to spin free unexpectedly.
Brands in this range
Every product in this collection is a genuine stock line from an established manufacturer — no unbranded or unverifiable tooling.
- Sutton Tools — Australian-owned manufacturer of precision cutting tools and threading accessories. Their Easy-Out screw extractor sets are a long-standing trade standard for removing broken fasteners without re-drilling or damaging surrounding material.
- Bordo — Australian cutting tool brand supplying square and reverse-fluted screw extractors, left-hand stub drill combination sets, and impact-rated bolt extractor sockets, trusted by engineers and machinists across trade and industrial work.
- Champion — supplies the one-way (anti-theft) screw removal tool for tamper-resistant security screws, plus a 5-piece screw extractor set for general workshop and maintenance use.
- P&N — Australian cutting tools brand also known for files, drill bits, taps and dies. Their reverse-spiral screw extractor sets cover a stated 3–18 mm range for snapped, stripped and corroded fasteners.
- Recoil — Australian precision thread repair brand. The RC50003 insert extraction tool is purpose-built to remove damaged or incorrectly installed Recoil wire thread inserts from M4 to M24 without damaging the parent material thread.
- Ko-Ken — Japanese precision tool brand supplying socket-drive screw and stud pullers in 1/2" and 3/4" drive, plus metric and A/F sized sets, for controlled extraction with a ratchet or torque wrench.
- Trax — Australian brand supplying both socket-style and straight rod stud extractors for broken exhaust manifold and cylinder head studs, in imperial and metric sizing.
- Stahlwille — German precision tool manufacturer. Their stud remover sets (including the 25-piece SW905/25, M5–M16) and removal pins for splined internal fasteners bring German engineering to specialist stud and splined-fastener extraction.
- Hansa — automotive workshop accessories brand, supplying a 13-piece hex extractor set for rounded-off hex-drive fasteners, alongside trim clip and panel removal tool sets for automotive interior work.
Frequently asked questions
What is a screw extractor and how does it work?
A screw extractor is a small hand tool used to remove a broken, stripped or seized screw, bolt or stud when there's no head left to grip with a normal driver or spanner. Most designs are reverse-fluted or tapered — you drill a pilot hole into the broken fastener, drive the extractor in, and turn it anticlockwise. The reverse-cut flutes bite into the fastener as you turn, backing it out of the hole.
What size screw extractor do I need for a broken bolt?
Match the extractor size to the diameter of the broken fastener, not the size of hole you'd like to drill. Every extractor set states the fastener size range it covers — for example, Sutton Tools' Easy-Out sets run from a 5-piece #1–#5 set up to a 6-piece #1–#6 set, while P&N's carbon steel sets cover a 3–18 mm range. Check the specific pilot drill diameter listed for the extractor size you're using before you start drilling.
How do I use a left-hand drill bit to remove a broken screw?
Fit the left-hand drill bit to a standard drill running in its normal (forward/clockwise) direction, and drill into the centre of the broken fastener at a slow speed with cutting oil. Because the bit cuts in the opposite direction to a standard right-hand thread, it can sometimes catch and unwind the fastener during drilling — extracting it before you even need the extractor itself. If it doesn't come free this way, continue with the pilot hole and use the matching screw extractor as normal.
What's the difference between a screw extractor and a stud puller?
A screw extractor (Easy-Out style or square taper) is generally driven into a drilled pilot hole in the broken fastener and turned with a tap wrench or pliers. A stud puller is a socket-drive tool that clamps or grips onto a stud — often one that's still protruding, or accessible via a socket — allowing you to apply controlled torque with a ratchet or torque wrench rather than hammering a tapered tool into a hole. Stud pullers such as the Ko-Ken and Trax ranges in this collection are typically used on cylinder head studs, exhaust manifold studs and similar applications.
Can I use a screw extractor on a damaged thread insert?
Not a standard screw extractor — use a dedicated thread insert extraction tool instead, such as the Recoil RC50003, which is purpose-built to remove damaged, cross-threaded or incorrectly installed wire thread inserts (M4–M24) without damaging the parent material thread. A standard screw extractor isn't designed to engage the coil of a wire thread insert and risks damaging the surrounding thread.
What is a one-way (anti-theft) screw removal tool?
One-way security screws have a head designed so a standard screwdriver can drive them in but can't turn them back out — they're used on security cages, signage, public fittings and tamper-resistant assemblies. A one-way screw removal tool, such as the Champion OWS-RT, has a reverse-cutting tip that engages the single-slot head and allows it to be turned anticlockwise for removal.
Socket-drive stud extractor or straight rod stud extractor — which do I need?
It comes down to how much of the stud is exposed. A socket-style stud extractor is the better choice for a stud that's broken off flush with or below the surface, since it grips around the stud rather than needing to engage exposed thread. A straight rod stud extractor is suited to a stud with enough protrusion above the surface for the rod to engage and grip directly.
What do I do if the extractor itself snaps inside the hole?
Stop applying force immediately — a snapped extractor is hardened steel and considerably harder to remove than the original fastener. Avoid drilling it out with standard bits; this usually needs specialist EDM (spark erosion) removal or a machine shop. To avoid this in the first place, apply steady anticlockwise torque only, use penetrating oil and heat on seized fasteners before extraction, and never force an extractor that isn't engaging properly.