Jigsaw Blade Guide: T-Shank, U-Shank, TPI & Materials

A jigsaw is one of the most useful tools in any workshop or tradesperson's kit — and one of the most blade-dependent. The same Bosch or Makita jigsaw that produces a glass-smooth curve in melamine will tear plywood to fluff and burn through aluminium if you put the wrong blade in. Blade selection is not optional fine-tuning; it is the single biggest variable in jigsaw performance. The right blade for the wrong material is just a wrong blade.

This guide walks the full selection: T-shank vs U-shank, the Bosch T-code naming system, TPI selection (the 2-to-4-teeth-in-cross-section rule that has held since the cordless era began), blade material from HCS through bi-metal to carbide TCT, the wood-metal-specialty-laminate-aluminium-stainless-fibre-cement matrix that drives every blade-pack purchase decision, tear-out reduction (reverse-tooth, masking tape, anti-splinter insert, Festool's zero-clearance foot), plunge cuts, blade length, and the forum-validated mistakes that catch beginners and trade alike. It's written for AU cabinet installers, electricians, plumbers, panel beaters, laminate floor installers, van builders, fence installers and the workshop teams who buy jigsaw blades in packs.

AIMS Industrial stocks 18 Sutton Tools jigsaw blade SKUs — the complete Sutton range covering T-shank and Euro-shank options for wood, metal, aluminium, plastic, stainless, fibre cement and multi-purpose applications. Sutton Tools is the largest-selling AIMS cutting tool brand and the AU repeat-purchase workshop standard.

What does a jigsaw blade actually do?

A jigsaw blade is a narrow, flat cutting blade that reciprocates vertically inside a jigsaw, cutting on the upstroke (or downstroke, for reverse-tooth blades) as the operator pushes the saw forward through the material. The narrow profile lets a jigsaw cut curves and internal holes that a circular saw cannot — that is the whole point of the tool. Trade-off: the narrow blade is also the least rigid cutting blade in a workshop, which is why feed rate, blade selection, and material thickness matter more for a jigsaw than for any other power saw.

Jigsaw blades are not interchangeable with other reciprocating cutting tools. The shank is different from a reciprocating saw blade (recip blades are longer and use a 1/2" universal shank), different from a hacksaw blade (hand tool, fixed frame), and completely different from a bandsaw blade (continuous loop). Don't substitute — the shank standard alone makes it physically impossible to chuck the wrong blade type even if you wanted to.

T-shank vs U-shank — the first decision

The shank is the top end of the blade that locks into the jigsaw's blade clamp. Two standards dominate — T-shank and U-shank — and choosing the wrong one is the most common AU jigsaw blade selection mistake. From r/Tools on blade compatibility: "Are you trying to use old U-shank blades?" — the universal top answer when a jigsaw drops blades repeatedly.

The pre-purchase check: open your jigsaw's blade clamp, remove the existing blade, look at the top end. T-shank blades have a flat-top T-profile that drops into a slot. U-shank blades have a U-shaped tang with two semicircular cut-outs that locate over a pin or screw. They are visually distinct — once you have seen each, you cannot confuse them.

If your jigsaw is missing its existing blade and the manual is gone, look for tool-free blade-change levers near the chuck (T-shank indicator) or a hex socket head visible at the blade entry (U-shank indicator). When in doubt, AIMS recommends T-shank — matches the vast majority of AU jigsaws sold since 2010.

The Bosch T-code system decoded

Bosch's T-shank blades use a coded naming system that has become a near-universal industry reference — many AU tradies buy by Bosch code even when using a different brand of jigsaw. Understanding the code helps you select the right blade across any manufacturer's range, including Sutton.

Sutton's H4xxx system maps similar variables but with the brand's own coding. Sutton names by blade length × TPI × material rather than the Bosch single-letter pattern code. The two systems coexist in AU workshops — an electrician might keep a Sutton 5-piece set in the ute and reference Bosch T118A by code when ordering an OEM replacement for a Bosch-branded blade pack.

TPI selection — the 2-to-4-teeth rule

Teeth Per Inch (TPI) is the fundamental cutting characteristic of any saw blade — jigsaw, recip, hacksaw, bandsaw. Higher TPI = finer, smoother cut. Lower TPI = faster, rougher cut with better chip clearance. The canonical selection principle, validated across r/woodworking, r/BeginnerWoodWorking and AU trade practice:

"You want 2 to 4 teeth in the cross section of material that you are cutting. Too fine a blade and the chips can't clear, the blade clogs and burns. Too coarse and you tear the material." — r/BeginnerWoodWorking, paraphrased from multiple practitioner threads

Worked example for jigsaw work:

• 16 mm plywood: 16 mm = 0.63". With 2-4 teeth engaged at any moment, target 3 to 6 TPI per inch of stock, which translates to a 10-13 TPI blade in practice (the cross-section is short relative to blade length).
• 3 mm aluminium sheet: very thin stock — high TPI for clean cut, but aluminium needs aggressive tooth pitch for chip clearance. Use 8-10 TPI (Sutton H4531002 Metal Aluminium 100mm 8.5 TPI is purpose-matched).
• 0.8 mm sheet steel: thin gauge steel needs high TPI to avoid tear — 24-36 TPI (Sutton H4470752 36 TPI is the purpose-matched product).
• 6 mm acrylic / plastic: 8-10 TPI for clean cut without melting.

The rule of thumb that always works: thinner stock = higher TPI; thicker stock = lower TPI; harder material = bi-metal or carbide TCT teeth. The 2-to-4-teeth-in-cross-section principle is the underlying engineering reason.

Blade material — HCS, HSS, bi-metal, carbide grit, TCT

Jigsaw blade body material determines how the blade performs against different workpiece materials. Five primary blade materials cover the AU range:

The cost ladder runs roughly: HCS (lowest) < HSS < bi-metal < carbide grit < carbide TCT (highest). Match the blade material to the workpiece and the budget — carbide TCT on softwood is fine but expensive; HCS on stainless steel breaks teeth on the first cut.

From r/vandwellers on van conversion body steel cutting: "Bosch T118AHM jigsaw blades are the best I've found. We use them at work for cutting out [van window steel]." The HM (Hard Metal) suffix marks carbide-tipped blades suitable for vehicle bodywork. Sutton's H4560802 TCT Ultra is the equivalent AIMS-stocked product.

Material × TPI matrix — the canonical selection chart

Counterintuitive rule worth highlighting: aluminium needs LOW TPI (~8-10), not high. The reason is chip clearance — aluminium chips are sticky and weld to the teeth on high-TPI blades. The wide tooth pitch on a low-TPI blade gives chips somewhere to go before the next tooth comes around. From r/metalworking: "You need the lowest TPI hacksaw blade you can find for aluminum. Machine cuts on aluminum are generally done with wood blades." Sutton's H4531002 Metal Aluminium 100mm 8.5 TPI is exactly purpose-matched to this.

Wood blades — clean cut, fine cut, laminate, reverse-tooth, long life

The wood range covers everything from rough framing through cabinet-grade finish. Sutton's H43 and H44 wood blade series matches each common AU wood application:

• H4311002 Wood Clean Cut 100mm 10 TPI — everyday clean-cut wood blade. AU plywood and softwood standard at intermediate length.
• H4411152 Wood Extra Fine Cut 115mm 10 TPI — for cabinet-grade work where surface finish matters. Longer blade for thicker stock.
• H4421302 Wood Clean Cut 130mm 8.5 TPI — long blade, faster cut for thicker softwood. Composite decking application.
• H4431152 Wood Laminate 115mm 13 TPI — designed specifically for laminate and melamine. Higher TPI handles the brittle decorative surface.
• H4440802 Wood Laminate Long Life 80mm 13 TPI — extended-edge-life variant for kitchen and cabinet installers running multiple laminate benchtop cuts in one shift.

For laminate, melamine and visible-face plywood cuts, the standard technique is reverse-tooth blade combined with masking tape over the cut line. Most jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke, which means the teeth pull material upward through the cut and tear the upper surface. Reverse-tooth blades have the teeth pointing the other way and cut on the downstroke — the upper face stays clean, the lower face gets the tear-out (which is fine if the cut face is on top and the off-cut is on bottom). Reverse-tooth wood blades are a recurring AU cabinet-installer request and most AU jigsaw blade ranges include at least one reverse-tooth option.

Metal blades — sheet thin vs profile vs aluminium

Metal jigsaw cutting splits into three distinct categories with different TPI requirements:

For mixed-metal applications or unknown gauge, the practical rule: start with the higher-TPI blade and step down if the cut is too slow. The reverse approach (low TPI on thin sheet) tears the metal at the entry. Cutting speed should always be slow on metal — metal jigsaw cutting at low speed with steady forward pressure produces clean kerfs; high speed produces overheated blades and torn metal.

Specialty blades — plastic, ceramic, fibre cement, stainless TCT

Four specialty applications justify their own blade design:

• Plastic / acrylic / PVC. Plastic melts at high temperature, so the blade must clear heat fast. Sutton H4551002 Specialty Plastic 100mm 8.5 TPI uses a tooth geometry that avoids melt-and-weld behaviour. Cut slowly, don't apply downward pressure.
• Ceramic tile and glass. Hard, brittle materials. Standard toothed blades chip or fracture the workpiece. Sutton H4580801 Specialty Carbide Grit Ultra 80mm uses bonded tungsten carbide grit on the cutting edge — abrasive cutting action that grinds rather than tears. Water cooling on tile is essential to prevent overheating the bond.
• Fibre cement sheet (Hardies, Villaboard). Abrasive on standard blade teeth — standard wood blade dulls in three cuts. Carbide grit is the only effective blade material. Sutton H4580801 doubles for tile and fibre cement.
• Stainless steel. Work-hardens and is hard on HSS teeth. Carbide-tipped TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) blade is the practical answer. Sutton H4560802 Stainless Steel TCT Ultra 80mm 23 TPI — carbide teeth brazed to steel body, designed specifically for stainless work. Same blade type that AU van builders use for cutting body steel.

Reducing tear-out — reverse-tooth, masking tape, anti-splinter insert, zero-clearance foot

Tear-out is the single biggest complaint about jigsaw cutting. The good news: four techniques stack on top of each other to reduce tear-out by 90%+ compared to a bare cut with a standard blade.

For AU cabinet and laminate installers using Sutton blades in a workshop-grade Makita or Bosch jigsaw, the practical stack is: reverse-tooth or laminate-specific blade + masking tape + anti-splinter insert installed. That combination produces near-Festool-clean cuts on Sutton H4431152 / H4440802 laminate blades in a Makita HR or Bosch GST jigsaw.

Plunge cuts and internal cuts — the starter-hole technique

To cut an internal opening (a sink hole in a benchtop, a switch cutout in a wall panel, a window in a cabinet door), the blade has to start somewhere inside the panel without an existing edge. Two techniques:

1. Drill starter hole. Drill a hole inside the cutout shape large enough for the jigsaw blade to fit through (typically 10-12 mm hole). Drop the blade through, start the jigsaw, cut outward to the line, then follow the cut line around the perimeter. The standard AU technique — from Whirlpool AU "Tool to trim kitchen pantry board": "start from a drill hole in middle of the cut and then work outwards in each direction."
2. Plunge cut. Tilt the jigsaw forward onto the front edge of the foot, with the blade clear of the workpiece. Run the jigsaw at full speed, slowly lower the blade into the workpiece by rolling the saw back onto the foot. Risky on hardwood, MDF, laminate (kickback potential); the safer technique is the starter-hole approach.

For laminate kitchen benchtop sink cutouts, the standard practice is: drill four corner holes inside the cutout line, drop the jigsaw blade through one hole, cut to the corner, lift, drop in next corner hole, repeat. Avoids reverse-cutting around a tight corner that breaks blades.

Blade length and stroke — matching to material thickness

Jigsaw blades come in length classes from approximately 55 mm to 150+ mm overall. The cutting length is roughly half the overall length (the rest is shank plus body above the workpiece). Rule: blade cutting length should be at least 1.5× the workpiece thickness with stroke length factored in.

The Sutton H49 5-piece sets cover multiple lengths and tooth patterns in one pack — the H4900005 Multi-Purpose Set is the AU workshop default starter pack. The H4910005 Wood Cutting Set and H4920005 Metal Cutting Set are the specialised 5-packs for trades that work one material category most days.

Feed rate — cut slower for straight, clean cuts

The single most effective fix for poor jigsaw performance is to slow the feed rate. From r/woodworking top answer (24 votes) to a beginner's question on jigsaw blade wandering and bending: "cut slower, you are moving too fast causing the blade to deform."

The mechanism: a jigsaw blade is narrow and flexible. When the operator pushes the saw forward faster than the blade can cut through material, the blade flexes — backward, sideways, or both — rather than cutting straight. The cut wanders, the blade bends, and the cut emerges out of square at the bottom face. Slower feed = blade has time to cut at full depth = straight, square cut.

Combined with the right blade selection, slowing the feed rate also reduces:

• Blade snap (forced bending fatigues the blade)
• Burning on hardwood (overheating from forced cut without enough TPI for chip clearance)
• Tear-out (forced cut tears fibre rather than shearing it cleanly)
• Battery drain on cordless jigsaws (motor working against jammed blade pulls higher current)

The discipline: let the blade do the work. If the cut is slow, switch to a more aggressive blade (lower TPI for wood, lower TPI for aluminium specifically, bi-metal or TCT for hardened steel). Don't push harder.

Sutton H4 series naming decoded

Sutton's jigsaw blade naming uses a different system from the Bosch T-code — Sutton names by length, TPI and material rather than by tooth pattern letter. Once you read a few Sutton codes the pattern is consistent:

• H4xxxxxx — H4 prefix = Sutton jigsaw blade series
• The first additional digit roughly classifies blade application:
  • H43 / H44 wood blades
  • H45 metal and specialty
  • H49 pre-packed sets
• Remaining digits encode length (e.g. 100, 115, 130 mm) and TPI
• Trailing 2 = 2-pack; 0005 = 5-piece set

Worked examples:

• H4411152 — H44 wood metal series, 115 mm length, 2-pack — Wood Extra Fine Cut 115mm 10 TPI 2 Pack
• H4470752 — H44 sheet metal, 75 mm length, 2-pack — Metal Sheet 75mm 36 TPI 2 Pack
• H4541302 — H45 metal profile, 130 mm length, 2-pack — Metal Profile 130mm 25 TPI 2 Pack
• H4900005 — H49 set, 5-piece — Multi-Purpose Set

The Sutton system is straightforward once recognised. Buyers building stock typically order by application (H43 wood for cabinet workshops, H44 metal for fabrication, H49 sets for general workshops).

Common jigsaw blade mistakes

AU brand reality — Sutton stocked, premium OEMs source-on-request

AIMS Industrial stocks the complete Sutton Tools jigsaw blade range — 18 SKUs across T-shank wood, T-shank metal, T-shank specialty, T-shank pre-packed sets, and Euro-shank (U-shank) legacy blades. Sutton Tools is the largest-selling AIMS cutting tool brand and the AU repeat-purchase workshop standard — the brand AU tradespeople buy by the 2-pack week after week.

Sutton T-shank wood (5 SKUs): H4311002 Wood Clean Cut 100mm 10 TPI, H4411152 Wood Extra Fine Cut 115mm 10 TPI, H4421302 Wood Clean Cut 130mm 8.5 TPI, H4431152 Wood Laminate 115mm 13 TPI, H4440802 Wood Laminate Long Life 80mm 13 TPI.

Sutton T-shank metal (5 SKUs): H4470752 Metal Sheet 75mm 36 TPI (thin sheet), H4480752 Metal Sheet 75mm 21 TPI, H4510752 Metal General Purpose 75mm 13 TPI, H4531002 Metal Aluminium 100mm 8.5 TPI, H4541302 Metal Profile 130mm 25 TPI.

Sutton T-shank specialty (3 SKUs): H4551002 Specialty Plastic 100mm 8.5 TPI, H4560802 Stainless Steel TCT Ultra 80mm 23 TPI (carbide-tipped — vehicle body steel + stainless), H4580801 Specialty Carbide Grit Ultra 80mm (no-teeth carbide grit — tile, fibre cement, ceramic).

Sutton T-shank pre-packed sets (3 SKUs): H4900005 Multi-Purpose Set 5-piece (workshop default), H4910005 Wood Cutting Set 5-piece, H4920005 Metal Cutting Set 5-piece.

Sutton Euro-shank / U-shank (2 SKUs): H437 Euro Shank Wood General Purpose, H432 Euro Shank Wood Splinter Free — for older Ryobi and budget consumer jigsaws still on the legacy U-shank.

Honest scope — not stocked at AIMS: Bosch-branded T-series blades (T101B / T118A / T144D etc.), Makita OEM, DeWalt, Milwaukee OEM, Diablo, Hikoki / Hitachi, Festool, Ryobi OEM, Stanley, Irwin. Each is a legitimate AU market brand for its niche; AIMS sources through supplier network on request for OEM-branded jigsaw blade packs. Day-to-day AIMS stock is the Sutton range above. Sutton's H4 series technically matches and substitutes for Bosch T-codes in most applications — the Sutton stock is the AU workshop's repeat-purchase consumable, the OEMs are the same-size premium-tier substitutes when warranty or brand-match procurement specifies them.

Selection by trade

AIMS selection checklist — 7 pre-purchase questions

1. T-shank or U-shank? Check your jigsaw's existing blade; T-shank fits 90%+ of current AU jigsaws.
2. What material are you cutting? Wood, metal sheet, metal profile, aluminium, plastic, laminate, ceramic, fibre cement, stainless — each calls for a different Sutton blade in the range.
3. What thickness? Match cutting length to 1.5× workpiece thickness; match TPI to the 2-to-4-teeth-in-cross-section rule.
4. Tear-out a concern? Reverse-tooth or laminate-specific blade + masking tape + anti-splinter insert. The stack reduces tear-out 90%+.
5. Single project or repeat purchase? For repeat-volume work, step up to the Long Life laminate variant or use the appropriate 5-piece set.
6. HCS, HSS, bi-metal or carbide TCT? HCS for wood. HSS for metal. Bi-metal for mixed material. Carbide TCT for stainless and vehicle body steel. Carbide grit for ceramic and fibre cement.
7. Are you doing internal cuts? Plan starter holes (10-12 mm drilled inside the cutout line) and route the cut from each starter hole to the perimeter.

Need help matching Sutton jigsaw blades to your job mix or building a workshop stock pack? Contact the AIMS team — Sutton Tools is the largest AIMS-stocked cutting tool brand and we know the range. The complete Sutton jigsaw blade range is at /collections/sutton-tools.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a T-shank and U-shank jigsaw blade?

T-shank is the modern Bosch industry standard — fits 90%+ of current jigsaws across Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Hikoki, Festool, Metabo, Ozito and most Hitachi. T-shanks have a flat-top T-profile that locks into a tool-free quick-change clamp. U-shank (Euro shank, universal shank) is the legacy double-tang standard, still found on older Ryobi and some budget consumer jigsaws — locked by a screw rather than tool-free clamp. Check the existing blade in your jigsaw before buying. AIMS stocks 16 Sutton T-shank blades and 2 Sutton U-shank options.

Do all jigsaw blades fit all jigsaws?

No. The shank standard must match. T-shank blades fit T-shank jigsaws (the modern industry default). U-shank blades fit U-shank jigsaws (legacy and budget). The two are visually distinct — T-shank has a flat T-profile top; U-shank has a U-shaped tang with two semicircular cut-outs. Within the matching shank standard, blade length and tooth pattern are interchangeable across brands — a Sutton T-shank blade fits a Makita / Bosch / DeWalt / Milwaukee T-shank jigsaw without modification.

How many teeth should a jigsaw blade have?

The canonical rule across r/woodworking, r/BeginnerWoodWorking and AU trade practice: 2 to 4 teeth in the cross section of the material you are cutting. Thinner stock = higher TPI; thicker stock = lower TPI. Practical examples: thin sheet steel (0.5-1.5 mm) needs 24-36 TPI; medium steel (1.5-3 mm) needs 21-25 TPI; cabinet plywood needs 10-13 TPI; thicker softwood needs 6-10 TPI. Aluminium is the counterintuitive exception — needs LOW TPI (8-10) for chip clearance, not high.

Why does aluminium need a low TPI blade?

Aluminium chips are sticky and tend to weld to the blade teeth on high-TPI blades. A low-TPI blade (Sutton H4531002 Metal Aluminium at 8.5 TPI) gives the chips somewhere to go between teeth before the next tooth comes around. High-TPI blades on aluminium clog within seconds — the blade jams and burns. This is the same engineering reason metal-cutting bandsaw blades have lower TPI than wood blades. r/metalworking direct: "You need the lowest TPI hacksaw blade you can find for aluminum."

How do I stop my jigsaw cut from wandering off the line?

Slow down. r/woodworking top answer to this exact question: "cut slower, you are moving too fast causing the blade to deform." A jigsaw blade is narrow and flexible — when you push the saw forward faster than the blade can cut through material, the blade flexes sideways and the cut wanders. Combine slow feed with the right blade for the material and a sharp blade (replace worn HCS blades early), and most wandering disappears. A guide rail or speed-square edge guide also helps for straight cuts longer than 200 mm.

How do I prevent tear-out when cutting laminate or melamine?

Stack four techniques: (1) Use a reverse-tooth or laminate-specific blade like Sutton H4431152 Wood Laminate 115mm 13 TPI or H4440802 Long Life. Reverse-tooth blades cut on the downstroke so the upper face stays clean. (2) Apply wide masking tape over the cut line — gives fibres a backing surface. (3) Install the anti-splinter insert that ships with most modern jigsaws. (4) For premium-finish work, a zero-clearance foot (Festool standard, or sacrificial plywood under the workpiece) eliminates the gap between blade and foot. The stack reduces tear-out 90%+ versus a bare cut with a standard blade.

What blade should I use for cutting fibre cement sheet (Hardies)?

A carbide grit blade with no conventional teeth. Sutton H4580801 Specialty Carbide Grit Ultra 80mm is the AIMS-stocked product. Fibre cement is highly abrasive — standard HCS or HSS toothed blades dull within three or four cuts. The carbide grit blade uses tungsten carbide grit bonded to the cutting edge in place of teeth, cutting by abrasion rather than shearing. The same blade works for ceramic tile, glass, and abrasive composite materials. Slow cutting speed; water cooling on tile and porcelain prevents bond overheating.

Can I use a metal jigsaw blade to cut wood?

Technically yes, practically no. A high-TPI metal blade (e.g. 21-36 TPI) on wood cuts very slowly, burns the wood, and clogs with sawdust because the tooth pitch is too small for wood chip clearance. The faster, cleaner option is the correct wood blade with appropriate TPI (8.5-13 TPI for most wood applications). The reverse case — wood blade on metal — doesn't work at all: HCS wood teeth are too soft and the tooth pitch too coarse for metal. The Sutton range has dedicated blades for each material category.

What is the difference between HCS, HSS, bi-metal, and carbide TCT?

HCS (High Carbon Steel) is hardened carbon steel — flexible, cheap, best for wood. HSS (High Speed Steel) is harder carbon-plus-alloy — holds an edge longer, suited to metal and high-volume wood. Bi-metal blades have HSS teeth welded to a spring-steel body — the cutting edge stays hard while the body stays flexible, ideal for mixed material (wood with embedded nails). Carbide TCT (Tungsten Carbide Tipped) has tungsten carbide teeth brazed to a steel body — much harder than HSS, cuts stainless and vehicle body steel that breaks HSS teeth. Cost ladder: HCS < HSS < bi-metal < carbide TCT.

What does the HM in T118AHM mean?

HM stands for Hard Metal — the German term for tungsten carbide. A T118AHM blade is a Bosch-coded 75-92 mm T-shank metal blade with carbide (rather than HSS) teeth, intended for cutting hardened, abrasive or stainless materials. The equivalent AIMS-stocked Sutton product is the H4560802 Stainless Steel TCT Ultra 80mm 23 TPI — same cutting capability with Sutton's H4 naming applied. AU van builders use HM/TCT blades for cutting body steel window openings.

Why do my jigsaw blades keep falling out?

Most likely cause: you have a T-shank jigsaw and you're trying to use U-shank blades (or vice versa). r/Tools top answer to this exact question: "are you trying to use old U-shank blades?" The two shank standards lock differently and won't hold each other. Check the existing blade in your jigsaw and confirm it matches the new pack before buying. Less common causes: worn jigsaw blade clamp, build-up of sawdust in the clamp, or attempting to use a damaged blade with a bent shank. Sutton T-shank blades (H43, H44, H45, H49 series) fit the vast majority of AU current-model jigsaws.

How do I cut an internal hole or cutout with a jigsaw?

The standard AU technique — drill starter holes. Drill a 10-12 mm hole inside the area to be cut out, large enough for the jigsaw blade to fit through. Drop the blade through the starter hole, start the jigsaw with the blade at full speed, then cut outward to the cutout line and follow the perimeter. For laminate benchtop sink cutouts, drill four starter holes (one in each corner of the cutout) and cut to the corner from each starter hole. The plunge-cut technique (tilting the saw onto the foot front edge and rolling the blade into the work) is faster but riskier — kickback potential on hardwood and laminate. Whirlpool AU practitioner-validated rule: starter hole approach for any internal cut on visible-face material.

What jigsaw blade length do I need?

Match cutting length to 1.5× the workpiece thickness minimum. Common Sutton lengths: 75 mm blades (cutting length ~50 mm) for sheet metal and light plywood; 80 mm blades for laminate Long Life and stainless TCT; 100 mm blades (cutting length ~75 mm) for cabinet plywood, aluminium, plastic; 115 mm blades for cabinet hardwood and structural plywood up to ~55 mm; 130 mm blades (cutting length ~105 mm) for thicker softwood, hardwood and composite decking up to ~65 mm. A blade that's too short binds in thick stock; a blade that's too long flexes more than necessary.

Are Sutton jigsaw blades the same as Bosch?

Sutton jigsaw blades are designed to fit Bosch T-shank jigsaws and the wider T-shank ecosystem (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Hikoki, Festool, Metabo, etc.). Sutton uses its own H4xxx naming system rather than Bosch's T-code, but the blades match equivalent Bosch products in most applications — Sutton H4411152 Wood Extra Fine is a comparable substitute for Bosch T101B class; Sutton H4560802 Stainless TCT is comparable to Bosch T118AHM. Sutton is the AU repeat-purchase workshop standard for jigsaw blades. AIMS stocks the complete Sutton range; Bosch OEM blades source on request.

Where do I buy jigsaw blades in Australia?

AIMS Industrial stocks the complete Sutton Tools jigsaw blade range — 18 SKUs covering T-shank wood, metal, specialty, pre-packed sets, and Euro-shank legacy options. Sutton is the largest-selling AIMS cutting tool brand and the AU workshop repeat-purchase standard. See the Sutton Tools collection. For Bosch / Makita / DeWalt / Milwaukee / Festool OEM jigsaw blades, AIMS sources through supplier network on request. Contact the AIMS team with your jigsaw model and intended cutting application.