Roll Pin Guide: Types, Sizes, Installation & Removal

What Is a Roll Pin?

A roll pin is a hollow, cylindrical fastener with a single longitudinal slot running the full length of its body. It is made from spring steel — formed into a cylinder that is slightly larger in diameter than the hole it is designed to fit. When you drive the pin into the hole, the slot closes under compression and the outer surface of the pin bears against the hole wall, creating an interference fit that holds the pin firmly in place without any threads, adhesive, or additional retention hardware.

The working principle is straightforward: the pin is oversized, the hole is at nominal diameter, and the spring force of the compressed steel keeps the pin retained. It cannot vibrate out, it will not back off under load, and it requires no precision tolerancing in the hole — a standard jobber-drilled hole at nominal diameter is all that is needed.

Roll pins are used wherever you need to lock a component to a shaft, create a pivot point, or retain a part in a fixed axial position. The most common application is securing gears, pulleys, sprockets, and levers to shafts — the pin passes through aligned holes in both the shaft and the component, locking them so they rotate or move together. They appear in agricultural machinery, industrial gearboxes, automotive linkages, conveying equipment, and general maintenance workshops across Australia.

For a general overview of pin fastener types — including split pins, cotter pins, and clevis pins — see the Split Pin and Cotter Pin Guide and the Clevis Pin Guide.

One Pin, Five Names

If you have worked in the Australian trade for any length of time, you have heard roll pins called several different things. They are all the same product. Understanding the names matters: when you are at a fastener counter, all five of these terms might be used interchangeably by the person serving you, or printed on the packaging.

Roll Pin

The most widely used term in Australia and internationally. It describes how the pin is made: a flat sheet of spring steel, rolled into a cylindrical shape with the two edges forming the characteristic longitudinal slot. This is the term you will find in most supplier catalogues and engineering standards documentation.

Spring Pin

The technically correct generic term. A spring pin is any pin that uses spring force to retain itself in a hole — this covers both slotted and coiled designs. In practice, "spring pin" and "roll pin" are used interchangeably for the slotted type. The DIN and ISO standards use "spring pin" as the governing term. If a drawing specifies "spring pin" without further qualification, confirm whether slotted or coiled is intended before ordering.

Sellock Pin / Selock Pin / Sel-Lok

A widely used Australian and UK trade name. "Sellock" — also spelled "selock," "sel-lok," or "sellok" — originated as a brand name and became genericised in the Australian hardware and fastener trade, in the same way "Biro" became the common word for a ballpoint pen. If a boilermaker, fitter, or maintenance tradie asks for a sellock pin in an Australian workshop, they want a standard metric roll pin. The Blackwoods catalogue lists them as "Pin Roll Spring Sel-Lok ZP." United Fasteners calls them "Sellock Spring Pins." Cost Less Bolts lists them as "Sel-Lock Spring Pin Metric." Different labels — exactly the same product.

The term "sellock" carries particularly strong commercial intent in online searches — search data shows it attracting click costs of over $110 per click on paid search, reflecting the high purchase intent of people who use that specific trade vocabulary.

Tension Pin

Another name for the slotted spring pin, particularly common in North American industrial literature. The name refers to the working principle: the compressed pin creates radial tension against the hole wall. You will encounter this term in ASME B18.8.2 (the US imperial standard) and in some Australian engineering drawings that follow US conventions.

Slotted Spring Pin

The fully descriptive technical name: a spring pin, of the slotted (single-slot) variety. This distinguishes it explicitly from the coiled spring pin (covered in the next section). When a specification reads "slotted spring pin," it means this product — not a coiled type. The two are not interchangeable in all applications, and their dimensional and performance characteristics differ.

Slotted vs Coiled Spring Pins: What is the Difference?

There are two distinct types of spring pin on the market. They look superficially similar and serve the same fundamental purpose, but they have meaningfully different performance characteristics. Getting this right matters in applications that see sustained vibration, shock loading, or repeated assembly and disassembly cycles.

Slotted Spring Pin (Roll Pin) — DIN 1481 / ISO 8752

A single flat sheet of spring steel, rolled into a near-complete cylinder with one longitudinal slot. The cross-section is an open circle — a C-shape — with the two sheet edges forming the slot gap. When compressed into a hole, the slot closes partially and the outer cylindrical surface bears against the hole wall with high contact stress along the full length of the pin. This creates the interference fit that retains the component.

Slotted spring pins are the economical standard for the majority of applications: single-direction or moderate loading, low-to-moderate vibration, and assemblies that are installed once and rarely disassembled. They are slightly stiffer than coiled pins and develop a higher initial radial force, which gives them excellent retention in standard drilled holes. They are the default choice in most Australian maintenance workshops.

Limitations: In high-fatigue applications — repeated shock loading, sustained vibration, or cyclic stress — the single-wall cross-section can initiate a fatigue crack at the slot corners over time. These corners are the highest stress-concentration points in the pin geometry. Slot orientation also materially affects service life: installing a slotted pin in the wrong rotational orientation can reduce its useful life by up to 50%. For applications where these limitations matter, coiled pins are the upgrade path.

Coiled Spring Pin (Spiral Pin) — DIN 1482 / ISO 8750

A coiled spring pin is made from a strip of spring steel coiled approximately 2.25 turns around its axis. The result is a multi-layer cylinder: the cross-section shows two or more overlapping walls rather than a single wall. This fundamentally changes the performance profile.

Because the coils can flex independently of each other, a coiled pin distributes load and radial force across multiple contact points simultaneously. Shock and vibration are absorbed far more effectively than with a slotted pin. There is no single stress-concentration point analogous to the slot corners on a slotted pin — fatigue resistance is substantially higher as a result.

Key advantages of coiled pins:

• No slot orientation requirement: Because load is distributed symmetrically around the multi-coil cross-section, a coiled pin performs identically regardless of its rotational orientation during installation. A significant practical advantage in rapid-assembly production environments.
• Reusable in the same hole: Coiled pins can be removed and reinstalled in the same hole because the coil spring-back is consistent and the pin does not flare or deform during removal the way a slotted pin sometimes can.
• Better vibration and shock resistance: The multi-coil geometry damps micro-movement under vibration more effectively than the single-wall slotted design.

When to choose coiled over slotted: high-vibration environments (agricultural machinery, mining equipment, drivetrains); applications with repeated assembly and disassembly; shock-load situations; and wherever pin fatigue life is a design concern. Coiled pins cost more than slotted pins — for most standard maintenance applications, slotted pins are sufficient.

Interchangeability note: Slotted and coiled pins to the same nominal diameter and length have the same external dimensions and fit the same hole. They are dimensionally interchangeable for a direct replacement. However, their spring rates and radial forces differ — for a critical application, check the original specification before substituting one type for the other.

Roll Pin Materials

Most roll pins are carbon spring steel. For most applications that is all you need — but there are situations where material choice matters significantly. Getting it wrong causes corrosion, contamination, premature failure, or regulatory non-compliance in food and pharmaceutical applications.

Carbon Spring Steel (Standard) — Zinc-Plated

Typically 1070 or equivalent high-carbon spring steel. Strong, elastic, good fatigue resistance, and the default choice for the vast majority of industrial, agricultural, and mechanical applications. Carbon steel roll pins are standardly supplied zinc-plated — bright zinc or yellow-chromate passivated — which provides a base level of corrosion protection for indoor and dry conditions. The zinc plating is not a heavy corrosion barrier: it is not suitable for outdoor long-term exposure, marine environments, or wet-process industrial plant without a material upgrade.

Stainless Steel — Grade 420 (Most Common) or Grade 304

Used where corrosion resistance is required: food processing equipment, marine hardware, outdoor and agricultural machinery exposed to weather, pumps handling corrosive media, and any application where the pin is in regular contact with moisture, cleaning chemicals, or salt. Grade 420 (martensitic stainless) provides better spring properties than austenitic grades and is the standard stainless choice for spring pins. Grade 304 is available for more aggressive environments. Stainless spring pins carry a significant cost premium over carbon steel and are less universally stocked; for critical applications, allow extra sourcing lead time.

Alloy Steel (Hardened and Tempered)

Used in very high shear and shock-load applications where standard carbon spring steel performance is insufficient. Less common in everyday maintenance work, but specified in heavy drivetrain applications, mining equipment, and high-cycle machinery where pin failure would cause significant consequential damage. Not a standard stock item — typically sourced to order.

DIN 1481 / ISO 8752: Understanding the Standard

Metric roll pins in Australia are manufactured and specified to DIN 1481 (the German industrial standard) or its direct equivalent ISO 8752. In practice these two standards describe the same product to the same dimensions, and the terms appear interchangeably on supplier datasheets and engineering drawings. ASME B18.8.2 is the equivalent US imperial standard, relevant when working on American-designed machinery.

How to Read the Designation

A full DIN 1481 designation reads: Spring Pin DIN 1481 – 5 × 30. Breaking that down: DIN 1481 is the governing standard; 5 is the nominal pin diameter in millimetres; 30 is the pin length in millimetres. A 5 × 30 pin is 5 mm nominal diameter and 30 mm long. The actual manufactured diameter will be slightly larger than 5 mm — the standard specifies an oversized range so the pin compresses on insertion. For coiled pins, the governing standard is DIN 1482 / ISO 8750, with the same designation format.

Hole Tolerance

DIN 1481 specifies a hole tolerance of H13 or H14 at the nominal diameter. This corresponds to a relatively wide tolerance — the kind produced by a standard jobber drill bit drilling into steel without reaming. This is by design: roll pins work in standard drilled holes. This is the critical differentiator from dowel pins, which require a precision H7 reamed hole. If you are replacing a dowel pin with a roll pin, the existing hole is acceptable as-drilled. If you are replacing a roll pin with a dowel pin, the hole will need to be reamed to H7 tolerance.

Chamfered Ends

All DIN 1481 spring pins have chamfers at both ends. The chamfer guides the pin into the hole mouth without the edge catching. Either end can go in first — there is no designated entry end on a standard roll pin.

Roll Pin Sizes: Diameter, Length and Drill Size Chart

The most common question when ordering roll pins is: what drill size do I need? The answer is simple: drill the hole to the nominal pin diameter. A 5 mm roll pin goes into a 5 mm hole. The pin is manufactured oversize and will compress on entry. You do not drill undersize; you do not ream the hole.

Oversized hole warning: If the drilled hole is oversized beyond H14 tolerance, the pin will not develop sufficient radial force. The pin will be loose and may vibrate free or fail to transmit torque reliably. If the pin slides in by hand without resistance, the hole is too large. Options: use the next size up pin, bush the hole and re-drill, or switch to a precision dowel pin with a reamed close-tolerance hole.

Pin length selection: For a through-pin locking a hub to a shaft, the pin length should equal or slightly exceed the outer diameter of the hub. Drive to flush or 0.5–1 mm below the outer surface. Protruding pins catch on housings and interfere with adjacent rotating components. Recessed pins are acceptable for most applications.

How to Install a Roll Pin

Roll pin installation has a few critical details that tradespeople regularly get wrong. The two most common — wrong punch type and wrong slot orientation — are easy to avoid once you know what to look for.

Tools Required

• Dedicated roll pin punch: A roll pin punch has a small raised nub on the driving face. This nub seats on the outer rim of the hollow pin and drives it from the wall — not from inside the bore. Do not use a standard flat-faced punch. A flat punch of the same diameter as the pin, or any punch smaller than the pin OD, can enter the hollow bore and splay the pin walls outward. Once expanded, the pin seizes in the hole and is effectively impossible to remove without destroying it and the bore. This is the most common and most preventable roll pin mistake. Always use a dedicated roll pin punch.
• Hammer or arbor press: A hammer works for most installations. An arbor press gives more controlled vertical entry and is preferred for tight assemblies and production environments.
• Light lubricant (optional): A small amount of machine oil on the pin OD eases installation in tight holes. Use food-safe lubricant for food-adjacent applications.

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Drill the hole to the nominal pin diameter. For a 5 mm pin, use a 5 mm drill bit. No reaming required.
2. Deburr the hole mouth if there is a raised burr from drilling. A sharp burr can deflect the pin on entry.
3. Align the component and shaft so the holes are concentric and fully in-line.
4. For slotted pins: set the slot orientation before driving (see section below).
5. Present the pin chamfered end first into the hole mouth.
6. Position the roll pin punch on the rim of the pin and confirm the nub is seated on the outer rim, not inside the bore.
7. Drive the pin with controlled, progressive hammer blows. Do not use a single heavy strike — progressive driving keeps the pin aligned.
8. Drive to flush or 0.5–1 mm below the surface. Do not leave the pin protruding.

Slot Orientation: Why It Matters

This is the most underappreciated technical detail in roll pin installation, and it causes a disproportionate number of premature fatigue failures.

In a slotted spring pin, the slot is the structural weak point. The pin's bending stiffness is lowest in the plane through the slot opening. If the primary load acts through that plane, the pin flexes more and increases bending stress at the slot corners — the fatigue crack initiation sites. Engineering data shows that a slotted pin with the slot parallel to the primary load direction can have service life reduced by up to 50%.

The rule: orient the slot perpendicular to the primary load direction. For a shaft-to-hub connection locking a gear, pulley, or sprocket: orient the slot so it faces toward and away from the shaft axis — perpendicular to the shaft centreline, not along it. For a pivot pin with primarily bending load: orient the slot at 90° to the bending load direction.

Coiled spring pins require no orientation. The multi-coil cross-section distributes load symmetrically. For applications where slot orientation is difficult to control during assembly, coiled pins eliminate the requirement entirely.

How to Remove a Roll Pin

Through-hole removal is straightforward. Blind-hole removal is where problems arise — and where the wrong approach damages the hole, the component, or both.

Through-Hole Removal

Position the roll pin punch — nub on the rim — and drive steadily from one side. If the pin is seized from corrosion, apply penetrating oil, wait at least 15 minutes, and try again before applying more force. Forcing a corroded pin without penetrant risks distorting the bore.

Blind Hole Removal — Four Methods

A blind hole does not pass all the way through the component. The pin goes in from one side only. Standard punch-through removal is not possible. These are the four methods that work:

Method 1: Grease Hydraulic

Pack the hollow bore of the pin completely full of thick grease — no air gaps. Find a punch that is a close fit to the inside bore diameter. Drive the punch firmly into the grease-filled bore. The incompressible grease transmits hydraulic force to the closed end of the pin and presses it back out of the hole. This is the cleanest method when the bore is accessible. A well-fitting punch is essential — a loose punch just displaces the grease without building pressure.

Method 2: Tap Method

Run a tap of appropriate size into the hollow bore to cut threads into the bore wall. Thread a bolt or stud into the tapped bore, then pull with a slide hammer or bearing puller. Do not over-torque the tap — spring steel is hard, and the goal is to thread the bore wall, not break the tap.

Method 3: Self-Tapping Screw

Drive a self-tapping screw into the hollow bore until it bites firmly. Use the screw head as the extraction grip point — lever against the surrounding surface or attach a slide hammer. Best for larger pin sizes (6 mm and above) where the bore is wide enough to accept a useful self-tapping screw.

Method 4: Heat Annealing

Heat the area around the pin to approximately 400–500°C — a dull red on the steel surface. The heat anneals the spring steel, relaxing the temper and eliminating the radial interference force. Once cooled, the pin can be removed with minimal force. Caveats: this permanently destroys the pin. Never use heat near seals, O-rings, flammable fluids, or lubricants. Use appropriate PPE — heat-resistant gloves, safety glasses, face shield.

Common Mistakes

These four mistakes account for the overwhelming majority of roll pin installation and removal failures encountered in Australian maintenance workshops.

1. Wrong Punch — Expanding the Pin in the Bore

The most common and most costly roll pin mistake. A flat punch or a punch smaller than the pin OD enters the hollow bore on contact. Every hammer blow then expands the pin walls outward. The more you drive, the more firmly the pin locks in place. The pin generally cannot be driven out at this point — it needs to be drilled out, which risks the bore. Fix: use a dedicated roll pin punch with a nub that seats on the outer rim.

2. Drilling the Hole Oversized

If the hole is drilled oversize — even half a millimetre in smaller pin sizes — the pin will not develop enough spring force to create a reliable interference fit. The pin vibrates free, walks under cyclic loading, or fails to transmit torque. If the pin slides in by hand without resistance, the hole is too big. Remedies: use the next pin size up, bush and re-drill, or redesign the joint.

3. Wrong Slot Orientation on High-Load Applications

For slotted pins in torque-transmitting or vibration-prone applications, the slot must be perpendicular to the primary load direction. Ignoring this on a gearbox shaft or drivetrain pin can halve service life. Where correct slot orientation is difficult to guarantee, switch to coiled spring pins.

4. Using a Roll Pin as a Shear Pin

A common and damaging mistake in agricultural and outdoor power equipment. A shear pin is soft and designed to break cleanly under overload, protecting the drivetrain. A roll pin is spring steel — engineered not to fail. If substituted for a shear pin on a PTO drive, auger, or mower deck, the roll pin will not break when the system overloads. The force travels into the gearbox and driven components instead, causing far more damage. Always replace shear pins with the correct specified material.

Common Applications

Roll pins appear across a wide range of mechanical assemblies in Australian industry, agriculture, and engineering maintenance.

Gear and Sprocket Retention on Shafts

The most common application. The pin passes through aligned holes in the shaft and hub, locking the gear, sprocket, or pulley so it rotates with the shaft. For light to medium duty torque transmission this is simple, economical, and reliable. For high torque or precision gearboxes, a key and keyway is more appropriate — follow the original design specification.

Pivot Pins and Hinge Pins

Roll pins create pivot points in mechanical linkages, agricultural implement joints, loader arms, and manually operated mechanisms. The interference fit keeps the pin from walking out longitudinally under cyclic loading without any secondary retention hardware.

Handle and Lever Retention

Tool handles, valve handles, and lever mechanisms are commonly retained by a single roll pin through the handle socket and the shaft or stem. Quick to install, easy to replace when a handle is damaged.

Agricultural Machinery

Roll pins appear throughout tractors, planting equipment, harvesters, spreaders, and three-point linkage implements. They are a standard maintenance consumable on Australian farms. Remember: they are not interchangeable with shear pins on PTO drives and cutting mechanisms.

Automotive and Vehicle Maintenance

Gearshift linkages, brake linkages, steering columns, and door latch mechanisms commonly use roll pins. Always match the original OEM diameter and material when replacing in automotive applications.

General Engineering Maintenance

For maintenance teams, roll pins are a standard consumable. Keeping an assortment of common metric sizes on the shelf — 2 mm through 8 mm in typical lengths — covers the majority of routine replacement tasks without sourcing individual sizes on short notice.

Roll Pin vs Dowel Pin vs Cotter Pin vs Shear Pin

Pin fasteners cover a range of designs and purposes. Here is how roll pins compare with the three other pin types most commonly encountered in Australian maintenance and engineering work.

The practical rule: use a roll pin to lock a component to a shaft where precision location is not required. Use a dowel pin where precision alignment in a static joint is required (and ream the hole to H7). Use a split/cotter pin as secondary retention on a nut, clevis pin, or axle. Use the correct specified shear pin — never a roll pin — where the fastener must break under overload.

See the Split Pin and Cotter Pin Guide and the Clevis Pin Guide for detail on those fastener types. For fastener metric sizing context, see the Metric vs Imperial Fasteners Guide.

AIMS Industrial Spring Pin Range

AIMS Industrial stocks metric slotted spring pins (DIN 1481) in carbon steel and stainless steel, covering sizes 2 mm through 8 mm in the most common lengths. All sizes are sold individually or in bulk packs to suit workshop stock requirements.

For maintenance teams who need a broad size range without ordering individually, the Champion CA1715 Spring Pin Assortment Kit is a practical solution: 18 metric sizes from 2 mm to 6 mm, 360 pieces total, in a labelled assortment case. It covers the majority of routine replacement sizes in a single purchase.

View the full AIMS spring pin range. If you need a size, material, or quantity not listed online, get in touch — we can source to order.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a roll pin?

A roll pin is a hollow spring steel cylinder with a single longitudinal slot along its length. It is manufactured slightly oversized relative to the hole it fits. When driven in, the slot closes under compression and the pin springs against the hole wall, creating an interference fit that retains the pin without threads or adhesive. Roll pins are used to lock components such as gears, pulleys, and levers to shafts, and as pivot and hinge pins in mechanical assemblies.

What is the difference between a roll pin and a spring pin?

There is no functional difference — they are the same product. "Roll pin" describes how it is made (a sheet of spring steel rolled into a cylinder). "Spring pin" is the broader engineering term that appears in DIN 1481 and ISO 8752. Both names refer to the same slotted, hollow, spring-steel cylinder. The potential for confusion is that "spring pin" technically also covers coiled spring pins, which are a distinct product — so when precision matters, specify "slotted spring pin" or "roll pin" to be unambiguous.

What is a sellock pin or selock pin?

A sellock pin (also spelled selock or sel-lok) is the Australian and UK trade name for a standard roll pin or slotted spring pin. The term originated as a brand name and became genericised in the Australian fastener trade — the same way "Biro" became the common word for a ballpoint pen. If a tradesperson asks for a sellock pin, they want a standard metric DIN 1481 slotted spring pin. Blackwoods, United Fasteners, and Cost Less Bolts all stock them under this name. Same product, different label.

What is a tension pin?

A tension pin is another name for a slotted spring pin (roll pin), used mainly in North American industrial literature and in specifications following ASME B18.8.2. The name refers to the working principle: the compressed pin exerts radial tension against the hole wall. In Australian usage, "roll pin" and "sellock pin" are more common terms for the same product.

What is the difference between a slotted spring pin and a coiled spring pin?

A slotted spring pin (roll pin) is made from a single sheet of spring steel rolled into a C-shape with one slot. A coiled spring pin is made from a strip of spring steel coiled approximately 2.25 turns, giving a multi-layer cross-section. Coiled pins have better fatigue resistance, absorb vibration and shock more effectively, require no slot orientation during installation, and can be reused in the same hole. They cost more. For most standard maintenance applications, slotted pins are sufficient. For high-vibration, high-cycle, or shock-load applications, coiled pins are the better choice.

What size hole do you drill for a roll pin?

Drill the hole to the nominal pin diameter. For a 5 mm roll pin, drill a 5 mm hole. Roll pins are manufactured oversize and compress on entry to create the interference fit. No reaming is required. If the pin slides in by hand without any resistance, the hole is too large — use the next size up or bush and re-drill.

How do you install a roll pin correctly?

Drill to nominal diameter, align the components, and present the pin chamfered end first. Use a dedicated roll pin punch — it has a nub on the face that seats on the rim of the hollow pin, preventing the punch from entering the bore and expanding the walls. Drive with steady progressive blows to flush or slightly below the surface. For slotted pins, orient the slot perpendicular to the primary load direction before driving. Do not use a standard flat punch — it will enter the bore and seize the pin.

Which way should the slot face when installing a roll pin?

Orient the slot perpendicular to the primary load direction. For a shaft-to-hub connection (gear, pulley, or sprocket on a shaft), orient the slot so it faces toward and away from the shaft axis — not along it. Incorrect slot orientation can reduce service life by up to 50% in high-load or high-cycle applications. Coiled spring pins require no orientation — they perform identically regardless of rotational position.

What happens if you use the wrong punch size on a roll pin?

If you use a flat punch or a punch that is smaller than the pin OD, it enters the hollow bore of the pin rather than bearing on the rim. Every hammer blow then expands the pin walls outward against the hole. The more you drive, the more firmly the pin locks itself in place — at this point it generally needs to be drilled out, which risks damaging the bore. Always use a dedicated roll pin punch with a nub that seats on the outer rim of the pin.

How do you remove a roll pin from a blind hole?

Four methods work for blind holes: (1) Grease hydraulic — pack the hollow bore completely with grease, use a close-fitting punch to drive into the bore, and hydraulic pressure forces the pin out. (2) Tap method — run a tap into the bore to cut threads, thread in a bolt, and pull with a slide hammer or bearing puller. (3) Self-tapping screw — drive a self-tapper into the bore and lever against the surface. (4) Heat annealing — heat to dull red (~400–500°C) to relax the spring temper; the pin can then be removed with minimal force. Note: heat permanently destroys the pin and must not be used near seals or flammable materials.

Can you reuse a roll pin?

Coiled spring pins can be reused in the same hole because their spring-back is consistent and they do not typically flare or deform on removal. Slotted spring pins can theoretically be reused if undamaged — inspect for flaring at the ends, cracking at slot corners, or deformation of the bore. In practice, slotted pins are inexpensive enough that replacement is standard practice. Never reuse a slotted pin removed from a corroded or oversized hole.

Can I use a roll pin as a shear pin?

No. A shear pin is a deliberately weak component — made from soft brass, Grade 2 steel, or a specific alloy — designed to break cleanly under overload, protecting the gearbox and driven components. A roll pin is spring steel: tough, hard, and engineered not to fail. Substituting a roll pin for a shear pin on a PTO drive, auger, or mower deck means the pin will not break when the drivetrain overloads. The force travels into the gearbox and downstream components instead, causing far more expensive damage. Always replace shear pins with the correct specified material.

What is the difference between a roll pin and a dowel pin?

A roll pin is a hollow, slotted spring steel cylinder that fits a standard drilled hole (H13/H14 tolerance) and retains itself by interference fit. A dowel pin is a solid, precision-ground cylinder that requires a reamed H7 hole and is used for precision alignment of mating components in static assemblies. Roll pins tolerate loose hole tolerances and resist vibration well. Dowel pins require precision reaming and are used where dimensional repeatability is critical — engine blocks, jig fixtures, precision machinery. The two are not interchangeable in precision-alignment applications.

What material should I choose for a roll pin?

Carbon spring steel zinc-plated is the standard choice for indoor or dry industrial applications. Stainless steel Grade 420 is required for corrosion-prone environments: food processing, marine, outdoor machinery, and wet-process plant. Alloy steel suits very high shear or shock-load applications where spring steel performance is insufficient. For standard maintenance applications, carbon steel zinc-plated is the correct default.

What roll pins does AIMS Industrial stock?

AIMS Industrial stocks metric slotted spring pins (DIN 1481) in carbon steel and stainless steel, in sizes 2 mm to 8 mm across the most common lengths. The Champion CA1715 assortment kit (18 sizes, 2–6 mm, 360 pieces) is also available. View the full range at aimsindustrial.com.au/fasteners/pins/spring-pins/, or contact the team for sizes or quantities not listed.