Welding Gloves Guide: AS/NZS 2161.4, TIG MIG Stick & Materials Selection

Welding gloves are arguably the most-replaced item of welding PPE — and the most often badly chosen. The wrong glove either fails (burn-through, seam split, melted lining) or actively works against you (loss of dexterity on TIG, restricted feed-hand mobility on MIG, premature fatigue on long jobs). This guide cuts through the confusion: TIG vs MIG vs stick gloves, the six leather grades that actually matter, what AS/NZS 2161.4 markings mean, cuff length, sizing, and the Bossweld + Frontier + BossSafe range we stock at AIMS. Scope: industrial welding hand protection (TIG, MIG, stick, plasma, oxy/acetylene, foundry, forge). Not for consumer grilling, oven mitts, or garden work — those require different (and usually cheaper) products.

Why welding gloves matter — the injury reality

Welding hand injuries are dominated by three mechanisms: contact heat (touching a hot workpiece, dropped electrode, slag splash), radiant heat (UV and IR from the arc), and mechanical impact/abrasion (hot spatter, sharp edges, falling stock). The arc itself runs at 1,100–6,000°C depending on process. Even a short bare-skin exposure to the arc's UV will produce a sunburn-equivalent injury within seconds — and that's just the radiation, before any actual contact with metal.

Welding glove failures are usually slow rather than dramatic: seams open up over weeks of use, fleece linings collapse and stop insulating, surface leather hardens and cracks. The result is a glove that looks intact but no longer protects to its rated level. Replacement intervals matter — most workshops budget 1–3 months for daily-use leather welding gloves, less for high-spatter MIG/stick work.

This guide assumes you already have eye protection, helmet, respirator, jacket and safety boots sorted. If not, see our companion guides on welding helmets, welding eye protection, the respirator guide for fume control, and safety boots. Hand protection without those is a partial solution.

The four glove categories: TIG, MIG, stick, and heat-resistant general

Welding gloves split into four functional categories. Picking the wrong category is the most common mistake we see at the counter — a TIG glove on stick work, or a thick MIG gauntlet for fine pipe TIG, both fail in predictable ways.

The TIG-glove-for-everything rule: a common pattern in Reddit r/Welding is welders using a TIG glove for everything up to about 200 amps, then switching to a MIG/stick glove above that. The logic: low-amp work generates manageable heat and dexterity dominates; high-amp work flips the balance toward heat protection. Reasonable rule for solo hobbyists. Production fab shops typically run a dedicated set per process.

Once you've chosen a category, narrow further on leather grade (next), cuff length, and lining. The 15 welding gloves at AIMS in /collections/welding-gloves cover all four categories — Bossweld dominates the range with TIG, MIG and stick options across goatskin, pigskin and split cowhide.

AS/NZS 2161.4 — the Australian welding glove standard

AS/NZS 2161.4:1999 (R2016) — Occupational protective gloves, Part 4: Protection against thermal risks (heat and/or fire) — is the Australian and New Zealand standard for thermal-rated protective gloves. It's the direct equivalent of EN 407, and most AU-supplied welding gloves cite both. Welding gloves sold for industrial use in Australia should carry the AS/NZS 2161.4 marking; gloves without it are not certified to perform in heat-and-fire conditions.

The standard tests gloves against six performance properties. Each is rated 0–4 (or 0–3 for one), with higher numbers indicating better performance.

You'll see a code like 413X4X on the glove — that's flame spread 4, contact heat 1, convective heat 3, radiant heat X (not tested), small splashes 4, large splashes X (not tested). An X means that property wasn't tested for that glove (typical for gloves not aimed at foundry work). For most welding work, look for level 3 or 4 on flame spread and at least level 2 on small splashes.

Two sister standards apply: AS/NZS 2161.1 (general requirements — sizing, dexterity grading, manufacturer marking) and AS/NZS 2161.3 (mechanical risks — abrasion, cut, tear, puncture; equivalent to EN 388). A welding glove should ideally carry all three markings. Safe Work Australia's Welding processes guidance explicitly references the AS/NZS 2161 set for hand protection compliance.

EN 12477 Type A vs Type B — the welder-specific standard

EN 12477 is the European protective glove standard specifically for welders, and AU-imported welding gloves often carry it alongside AS/NZS 2161.4. It splits welding gloves into two types based on the protection-vs-dexterity trade-off:

The trade-off explicit: Type A maximises heat and impact protection at the cost of dexterity; Type B maximises dexterity at the cost of heat performance. There's no Type A/B hybrid — by design, the standard forces a choice. Match Type A to stick/heavy MIG/plasma; match Type B to TIG/fine MIG.

If your glove carries both AS/NZS 2161.4 and EN 12477 Type A, it's certified for stick and heavy work. EN 12477 Type B equates to a TIG-rated AU glove. Gloves sold without either standard reference are not appropriate for industrial welding regardless of how good the leather looks.

Leather grades decoded — six options compared

Glove leather is not interchangeable. Six grades dominate the welding glove market, each with distinct performance characteristics. The grade matters as much as the rating because the leather determines durability, dexterity, breathability and price for the same nominal thickness.

Goatskin is the TIG dexterity king. Natural lanolin keeps the leather supple even after heat cycling, and the tight grain resists abrasion despite being thinner than cowhide. It's why most premium TIG gloves are goatskin — the Bossweld TIG long and the Bossweld Goat Skin TIG 36cm with reinforced fingers and cowhide cuff use goatskin on the palm with cowhide on the protective cuff section.

Cowhide split is the budget MIG/stick standard. "Split" refers to the lower (suede side) layer of cowhide after the top grain is separated; it's cheaper than top-grain and remains heat-resistant, just less abrasion-resistant. Most production workshops default to cowhide split for stick and heavy MIG. The Goat Split 40cm unlined and Goat Split 40cm fleece-lined at AIMS use this construction with full 40cm gauntlet cuffs.

Pigskin's water resistance distinguishes it. Cowhide hardens after a wet/dry cycle (rain, sweat, washing). Pigskin doesn't — it stays soft. Critical for outdoor or marine welding where the glove gets wet. Less common in AU welding glove ranges than cowhide and goatskin.

Deerskin softest, but durability shorter. Premium TIG choice for fine pipe work where every degree of finger movement matters. Doesn't last as long as goatskin under repeated spark contact.

Elkskin and buffalo are specialty. Elkskin is the fire-resistance king at premium price — North American foundry standard, not common in AU industrial supply. Buffalo is for forge/blacksmith work or where extreme abrasion (barbed wire fencing, demolition) is the dominant risk; overkill for welding.

Lining materials — the heat-protection trade-off

The lining is what keeps the inside of the glove cool when the outside is hot. Three lining types dominate, with a fourth specialty option.

• Unlined — maximum dexterity, minimum heat protection. Standard for TIG. The Bossweld Goat Split unlined 40cm uses this approach.
• Cotton lined — light insulation, comfortable, affordable. Standard for MIG and light stick. Sweat absorbent — but matted cotton stops insulating once it's saturated.
• Fleece lined — heaviest insulation in mainstream products. Standard for stick, heavy MIG, and cold-environment work. The Bossweld Goat Split fleece-lined 40cm is the AIMS workhorse for stick.
• Kevlar/aramid stitched and lined — flame-resistant stitching prevents seam failure under heat (cotton stitching is the #1 short-life failure point on cheap gloves). The BossSafe Yellow Aramid Stitched and the entire Frontier Ultimate Welder Aramid Gauntlet range use aramid stitching for extended life. Worth the upgrade for daily-use professional welders.

Aluminised heat shields and glove savers are a specialty fourth category. The BT/Bossweld Aluminised Kevlar Glove Saver (left hand) is a radiant-heat barrier worn over a normal welding glove for overhead welding, foundry pour observation, or any sustained radiant exposure. It reflects radiated heat rather than absorbing it.

TIG welding gloves — geometry and dexterity priorities

TIG gloves are the lightest in the welding range, prioritising tactile feedback so the welder can feel the filler rod's diameter and the puddle's behaviour through the leather. Goatskin is dominant; the glove typically runs unlined or thin-cotton-lined; cuffs are short to medium (28–36cm). The Bossweld TIG Long and Goat Skin TIG 36cm represent the AIMS TIG offering — both with reinforced fingers (the wear-out point) and cowhide cuff sections for forearm protection.

Reinforced fingers matter. The fingertip and inside of the index/thumb wear out first because that's where the welder grips the filler rod and torch. A TIG glove without reinforcement at these points typically fails in weeks. Look for visible double-leather construction at the fingertips — every quality TIG glove has it.

For TIG learning, see the TIG Welding Guide for process technique. The glove choice supports the technique — don't compromise dexterity for heat protection on TIG, you'll lose puddle control.

MIG welding gloves — heat balance and spatter resistance

MIG gloves sit between TIG and stick. They need enough heat protection to handle MIG spatter (particles up to 1500°C bouncing off the workpiece) and enough dexterity to handle the wire feed gun comfortably. Cowhide split or pigskin dominate; cotton or fleece lining; medium to long gauntlet cuffs (35–40cm) to protect against spatter rolling up the sleeve.

The Bossweld Blue Welders Gauntlets, Blue Comfort 40cm, Green & Gold 16" and Black & Gold 16" are the AIMS MIG range. The 16-inch (40cm) cuff length is the standard for production MIG to keep spatter out of the sleeve cuff. The Frontier Gauntlet (one size fits all) is the budget option.

For MIG technique and gun handling see the MIG Welding Guide. Match glove to amperage: under 200A you can run a TIG glove if dexterity matters; above 200A switch to a MIG gauntlet.

Stick welding gloves — heaviest duty and the left-hand-only convention

Stick welding (SMAW/MMA) generates more heat and bigger spatter than MIG, and the electrode is held in close proximity to the work for the entire bead. The glove for stick is the heaviest in the welding range: split cowhide (or elkskin in premium), heavy fleece lining, full 40cm+ gauntlet, often Kevlar/aramid stitching for seam integrity.

The left-hand-only buying convention. Stick welders typically wear a heavy stick-spec glove on their electrode hand (left hand for right-handers) and a lighter MIG or general-purpose glove on their other hand. The reason: the electrode hand needs maximum heat protection while gripping the rod close to the arc; the other hand handles the electrode holder cable, holds the workpiece, or feeds new electrodes — tasks where dexterity matters more than heat.

Two AIMS products explicitly serve this market as left-hand-only sales: the BossSafe Left-Hand Red Heavy Duty Welding Gloves (pair — both gloves left-handed) for the electrode hand, and the Frontier Leftie Welder Aramid Gauntlet Green (pack of 12, all left-hand) for the same role in volume. This is not about welder handedness — it's about buying convention. A right-handed welder buying a "leftie" pair is buying two left-hand gloves to cover the electrode hand for two days before replacing. The captures the 90 mo AU search volume for "lefties welding gloves" + "left hand welding gloves" + similar.

For stick welding technique and electrode selection see the Stick Welding Guide. The Bossweld Goat Split fleece-lined 40cm is the AIMS stick workhorse if you're not buying left-hand-only.

Cuff length — why 16-inch / 40cm is standard for serious work

The cuff is the glove's forearm extension. Two reasons it matters: spatter management (sparks rolling up the sleeve land on bare skin if the cuff is too short) and forearm protection (radiant heat from the arc burns exposed skin within seconds). Cuff length should overlap with the welding jacket sleeve by at least 5cm to prevent the gap-burns that are common with short-cuff gloves.

Heat-resistant general gloves — foundry, forge and hot handling

Heat-resistant gloves overlap with welding gloves in materials but not in design priority. Foundry, forge, kiln-tending and hot-metal handling need sustained contact heat protection — gloves rated to AS/NZS 2161.4 contact heat level 3 or 4 (350°C–500°C threshold). Welding gloves are designed for spark/spatter and short contact; heat-resistant gloves are designed for sustained grip on hot stock.

The BT/Bossweld Aluminised Kevlar Glove Saver is the AIMS option for radiant-heat work. For sustained hot-metal handling, look for "kiln" or "foundry" rated gloves at level 3+ contact heat — these are typically thicker and heavier than welding gloves and have shorter dexterity ratings.

What heat-resistant gloves are NOT for: grilling, oven mitts, BBQ. We get this question regularly — yes, welding gloves are heat-resistant, but they're sized and fitted for arc-welding ergonomics, not kitchen reach. A purpose-built BBQ/oven mitt is cheaper and fits the application better. The 600/mo "heat resistant gloves" search cluster has consumer audience contamination — this guide explicitly scopes to industrial use.

Aluminised heat shields and glove savers

Aluminised gloves and glove savers are the specialty radiant-heat solution for overhead welding, foundry observation and any work involving sustained exposure to radiated heat. The aluminium coating reflects infrared radiation rather than absorbing it — a radically different protection mechanism from leather, which absorbs and slowly transmits heat through the fabric.

The BT/Bossweld Aluminised Kevlar Glove Saver (left hand) is sold as a glove saver — meaning you wear it over a standard leather welding glove for the radiant-heat exposure portion of the job, then remove it for normal work. The Kevlar substrate gives flame resistance; the aluminised face reflects radiant energy. Worn alone it doesn't have the contact-heat performance of a dedicated leather glove.

This product is left-hand only because radiant overhead work and foundry-pour observation typically expose one hand more than the other. Pair with a normal right-hand welding glove from the same range for matched protection.

Sizing welding gloves correctly

Australian welding gloves use the AS/NZS 2161.1 size scale: numeric sizes 6–13 corresponding to hand circumference at the knuckles in centimetres. Size 9 (medium) fits a 23–24cm hand circumference; size 11 (large) fits 27–28cm. Most AU brands sell S/M/L/XL labelling that maps to sizes 8/9/10/11 respectively.

Sizing matters more than fabric grade. A correctly sized welding glove maintains grip without restriction. Common sizing mistakes:

• Too loose: glove rotates on the hand mid-grip, fingertips don't reach the leather end, dexterity collapses, glove feels "floppy" on the wire feed gun. Fix: drop a size.
• Too tight: restricted blood flow during a long bead, finger fatigue within 30 minutes, sweat doesn't dissipate, leather hardens faster from absorbed sweat. Fix: go up a size or try a different brand's sizing system.
• One-size-fits-all gauntlets (like the Frontier Gauntlet One Size Fits All) work for medium-to-large hands but not for small hands or extra-large hands. Budget option, not a precision fit.

Try gloves on with the welding jacket sleeve in place — the cuff overlap is part of the fit.

AIMS welding glove range — Bossweld, Frontier, BossSafe and BT/Bossweld

AIMS stocks 15 welding gloves across four brands at /collections/welding-gloves. Bossweld dominates (8 products) covering TIG through stick. Frontier (4) and BossSafe (2) add aramid-stitched and left-hand-only options. BT/Bossweld (1) adds the aluminised glove saver. We do not stock Elliotts (the dominant Australian welding glove brand by search volume) or imported brands like Tillman; if you're brand-loyal to Elliotts Big Red, our Bossweld and BossSafe equivalents cover the same AS/NZS 2161.4 performance levels at comparable price points.

TIG (dexterity priority):

• Bossweld TIG Welding Glove — Long (Pair) — extended cuff TIG, goatskin palm
• Bossweld Goat Skin TIG with Reinforced Fingers, Cowhide Cuff Unlined 36cm (Pair) — premium TIG with reinforced fingers

MIG (heat-and-dexterity balance):

• Bossweld Blue Welders Gauntlets
• Bossweld Blue Comfort Welding Glove (40cm)
• Bossweld Green & Gold Welding Glove 16" (Pair)
• Bossweld 16" Black & Gold Welding Glove (Pair)
• Frontier Gauntlet Welders Gloves One Size Fits All — budget

Stick (maximum heat):

• Bossweld Goat Split Leather Unlined 40cm
• Bossweld Goat Split Leather Fleece-Lined 40cm (Pair) — workshop workhorse
• BossSafe Left-Hand Red Heavy Duty Welding Gloves (Pair — both left-hand) — electrode hand stick

Aramid-stitched professional (extended seam life):

• BossSafe Yellow Aramid Stitched Welding Glove (Pair)
• Frontier Ultimate Welder Aramid Gauntlet Red — Pack of 12
• Frontier Leftie Welder Aramid Gauntlet Green — Pack of 12 (left-hand)
• Frontier Welder Reinforced Palm Aramid Gauntlet Blue — Pack of 12

Specialty radiant heat:

• BT/Bossweld Glove Saver Aluminised Kevlar (left hand)

If you need a glove we don't stock — Tillman, Elliotts Big Red, Lincoln Electric specific lines — call the AIMS team on (02) 9773 0122. We can usually source through our supplier network.

Care, maintenance and when to discard

Welding gloves are consumables, not capital equipment. Average life for daily-use leather welding gloves is 1–3 months for stick/heavy MIG and 3–6 months for TIG. Aramid-stitched gloves typically last 30–50% longer than cotton-stitched at the seams.

Care during use:

• Don't wash leather gloves with water — the wet/dry cycle hardens cowhide. Brush off slag and dirt with a stiff brush.
• Don't store in direct sunlight — UV degrades leather faster than welding spark exposure.
• Don't dry on a heat source after sweating — surface heat hardens leather. Air-dry only.
• Rotate two pairs if you weld daily — letting one pair air out 24 hours doubles service life.

Discard signs:

• Seam openings anywhere on the glove (cotton stitching has burned out)
• Hardened, cracked or curling leather — protection rating is gone even if the glove looks intact
• Visible burn-through, holes or patches of melted lining
• Lining bunched, matted or shifted out of position
• Cuff frayed or torn — spatter will breach the cuff

Don't try to extend a damaged welding glove "until the next replacement order." A burn injury costs more than the glove.

Common mistakes — eight forum-validated errors

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the Australian standard for welding gloves?

AS/NZS 2161.4:1999 (R2016) — Occupational protective gloves, Part 4: Protection against thermal risks (heat and/or fire) — is the Australian and New Zealand standard. It's directly equivalent to EN 407, and most welding gloves carry both markings. Welding gloves should also carry AS/NZS 2161.1 (general requirements) and ideally AS/NZS 2161.3 (mechanical risks). The AS/NZS 2161.4 marking shows six performance levels: flame spread, contact heat, convective heat, radiant heat, small splashes molten metal, and large splashes molten metal — each rated 0–4.

Can I use TIG welding gloves for MIG welding?

For MIG work below about 200 amps, yes — many welders prefer the TIG glove's dexterity for fine wire feed control. Above 200A, the increased spatter and heat exposure overwhelms the thinner TIG leather and a MIG-specific gauntlet is needed. The Reddit r/Welding consensus is "TIG gloves up to 200A, swap to MIG above". For dedicated production MIG work or heavy MIG (>250A), use a purpose-built MIG glove with cowhide split leather and fleece lining.

Are MIG or TIG gloves thicker?

MIG gloves are noticeably thicker. TIG gloves prioritise dexterity and use thin goatskin or deerskin (typically 0.7–1.0mm leather), often unlined or with thin cotton lining. MIG gloves use thicker cowhide split or top-grain (typically 1.2–1.5mm+ leather) with cotton or fleece lining. The thickness difference is functional: TIG needs filler-rod feel; MIG needs spatter resistance.

What type of gloves are recommended for stick welding?

Stick (SMAW/MMA) needs the heaviest welding gloves: split cowhide or elkskin, heavy fleece lining, full 40cm+ gauntlet, ideally aramid-stitched seams. Stick generates more heat and bigger spatter than MIG, and the electrode hand is held in close proximity to the arc for the entire bead. Many stick welders buy left-hand-only "leftie" gloves (like the BossSafe Left-Hand Red Heavy Duty pair) for the electrode hand and pair with a lighter MIG glove on the other hand for cable handling and electrode changing. EN 12477 Type A is the relevant European rating for stick.

Is goatskin or cowhide better for welding gloves?

Different applications. Goatskin wins for TIG and fine MIG work — its natural lanolin keeps the leather supple, the tight grain resists abrasion despite being thinner, and the thinness preserves dexterity. Cowhide (especially split cowhide) wins for stick and heavy MIG — it's thicker, heat-resistant, abrasion-resistant, and cheaper for the same volume. Both are AS/NZS 2161.4 compliant when properly constructed; choose based on process. Workshops with multiple welding processes typically run both.

What is the best leather for welding gloves?

There's no single best — the answer depends on the process. Goatskin for TIG dexterity. Cowhide split for stick/heavy MIG durability. Pigskin if water resistance matters (outdoor/marine welding). Deerskin for premium TIG fine-pipe work. Elkskin for premium foundry/blacksmith heat. Buffalo for forge or barbed-wire-adjacent work. The leather grade matters as much as the AS/NZS 2161.4 rating because it determines durability, dexterity and price for the same nominal performance level.

Should you wear gloves when TIG welding?

Always. TIG generates the same UV and IR radiation as MIG and stick — even a few seconds of bare-skin exposure to a TIG arc produces a sunburn-equivalent injury. The arc temperature is 1,100–6,000°C; bare skin at any distance suffers radiated heat injury within seconds. The temptation to remove gloves for "better feel" on fine work is the #1 hand-injury cause among hobbyist TIG welders. Use a thin goatskin TIG glove if dexterity is the issue — never bare hands.

Why are some welding gloves left-hand only?

Stick welders typically wear a heavy stick-spec glove on their electrode hand and a lighter MIG/general-purpose glove on the other hand. The electrode hand needs maximum heat protection while gripping the rod close to the arc; the other hand handles cable, holds the workpiece, or feeds new electrodes — tasks where dexterity matters more. A "leftie" pair is two left-hand gloves to cover the electrode hand for two days before replacing. This is buying convention, not handedness — a right-handed welder typically has their electrode in the dominant hand and would buy right-hand-only pairs (less common in AU supply). The BossSafe Left-Hand Red Heavy Duty pair is the AIMS option for left-handed electrode work.

What is AS/NZS 2161.4?

AS/NZS 2161.4:1999 (R2016) is the Australian and New Zealand standard for occupational protective gloves protecting against thermal risks — heat and fire. It tests gloves on six performance properties (flame spread, contact heat, convective heat, radiant heat, small splashes molten metal, large splashes molten metal), each rated 0–4. The standard is the direct equivalent of EN 407. AU-imported welding gloves typically carry both markings. Safe Work Australia's Welding processes guidance references AS/NZS 2161.4 as the relevant hand-protection standard for welding work.

What's the difference between EN 12477 Type A and Type B?

EN 12477 splits welding gloves into two types based on protection-vs-dexterity trade-off. Type A is heavy welding (stick, heavy MIG, plasma, oxy/acetylene cutting, foundry) — minimum AS/NZS 2161.4 levels of flame spread 3, contact heat 1, convective heat 2, small splashes 3, with mechanical performance to AS/NZS 2161.3. Type B is high-dexterity welding (TIG, fine MIG, brazing) — lower minimum heat performance (flame spread 2, contact heat 1, small splashes 2) but minimum dexterity level 4 (the highest rating). The standard forces a choice — there's no Type A/B hybrid. Match Type A to stick/heavy MIG; match Type B to TIG.

Can I use welding gloves for grilling or oven work?

Welding gloves are heat-resistant, but they're sized and fitted for arc-welding ergonomics — not kitchen reach or BBQ-tongs use. The 40cm gauntlet that protects against MIG spatter just gets in the way around an oven door. A purpose-built oven mitt or BBQ glove (which doesn't need AS/NZS 2161.4 certification) is cheaper and fits the application better. The "heat resistant gloves" search cluster has consumer-audience contamination — this guide explicitly scopes to industrial welding and hot-metal handling.

How long should welding glove cuffs be?

For TIG, 28–36cm is typical. For MIG, stick, plasma and foundry, 16-inch (40cm) is the production standard. Extra-long 45cm+ cuffs are reserved for foundry pour observation, overhead welding and blacksmith work where sustained radiant exposure dominates. The cuff should overlap with the welding jacket sleeve by at least 5cm to prevent gap-burns at the wrist — the most common short-cuff injury site. Don't compromise on cuff length to save a few dollars; the bare forearm is the easiest place to get burnt during welding.

How do I size welding gloves correctly?

Measure hand circumference at the knuckles (excluding thumb). Size 9 (medium / "M") fits 23–24cm; size 11 (large / "XL") fits 27–28cm. AS/NZS 2161.1 specifies the size scale 6–13. Most AU welding gloves use S/M/L/XL labelling that maps to sizes 8/9/10/11 respectively. Try gloves on with the welding jacket sleeve in place — the cuff overlap is part of the fit. Common mistakes: too-loose gloves rotate on the hand and collapse dexterity; too-tight restrict blood flow and accelerate fatigue. If between sizes, go up for MIG/stick, down for TIG.

What's the best welding glove brand sold in Australia?

The most-searched AU brand is Elliotts (with the "Big Red" line), followed by Pyromate. AIMS does not stock Elliotts — our equivalent industrial-grade ranges are Bossweld (8 products covering TIG/MIG/stick, including the workshop-workhorse Bossweld Goat Split fleece-lined 40cm), Frontier (4 products including the aramid-stitched Ultimate Welder range and the Leftie Welder for left-hand stick), BossSafe (Yellow Aramid Stitched plus the Left-Hand Red Heavy Duty for stick electrode work), and BT/Bossweld (Aluminised Kevlar Glove Saver for radiant work). All are AS/NZS 2161.4 compliant and cover comparable price/performance points to Elliotts. If you need Elliotts specifically, call the AIMS team — we can usually source through our supplier network.

How long do welding gloves last?

Daily-use leather welding gloves typically last 1–3 months for stick and heavy MIG, 3–6 months for TIG. Aramid-stitched gloves (Frontier Ultimate range, BossSafe Yellow Aramid) typically last 30–50% longer than cotton-stitched at the seams — the seams are usually the first failure point on cheaper gloves. Care matters: don't wash with water (cowhide hardens after wet/dry cycles), don't dry on heat sources, store away from direct sunlight, rotate two pairs to let leather air out. Discard signs include open seams, hardened/cracked leather, burn-through holes, and shifted lining. Don't try to extend a damaged welding glove — a hand-burn injury costs more than the glove.