A bench grinder is a fixed, double-ended grinding machine bolted to a bench or pedestal. Where an angle grinder is taken to the work, the bench grinder stays put and the work is brought to it. That fixed position is what makes it the right tool for sharpening drill bits and chisels, grinding down welds, deburring fabricated parts, and keeping workshop tools in shape — tasks that demand controlled, repeatable contact between tool and workpiece. For flat surface deburring and precision linishing, see our belt sander and linisher guide; for manual deburring, edge breaking and controlled hand work where a power tool is overkill, see the Hand File Guide or the Deburring Tool Guide for swivel-blade hand deburrers (Shaviv, Noga, Bordo).

This guide covers the key decisions: wheel type, grit, speed rating, and whether you need a standard or slow-speed machine. It also covers the Australian safety requirements from SafeWork NSW under AS1788.1 and AS1788.2, and gives clear product recommendations so you can match the right bench grinder from AIMS Industrial to your actual work.

Browse AIMS Industrial’s bench grinder range →

What Is a Bench Grinder?

A bench grinder consists of an induction electric motor with a spindle protruding from each end. An abrasive wheel, wire wheel, or polishing buff is mounted on each spindle. The motor runs continuously; the operator brings the workpiece to the wheel face, controls the angle and pressure, and moves the work to achieve the desired result.

The key difference from portable grinding tools is the fixed mount. Because the grinder does not move, the operator has both hands available to control the workpiece, angles are consistent and repeatable, and the tool rest provides a stable reference surface. This makes bench grinders well suited to precision sharpening work where an angle grinder would be far too aggressive and difficult to control.

Bench Grinder vs Angle Grinder vs Die Grinder

For an in-depth guide to portable grinding, cutting, and disc types for angle grinders, see the AIMS Angle Grinder Guide.

What Are Bench Grinders Used For?

The bench grinder covers a broader range of tasks than many people realise. The two main categories are metalworking and tool sharpening, but there is meaningful overlap between them.

Metalworking Tasks

Deburring is one of the most common daily uses in fabrication and maintenance workshops — removing the sharp burr left after cutting, drilling, or machining metal. A 60-grit aluminium oxide wheel removes burrs quickly and cleanly. Bench grinders are also used for shaping mild steel components (grinding a chamfer, removing excess material), cleaning up welds, removing rust from fasteners and fittings, and restoring the profile of damaged or worn tool tips including cold chisels, punches, and centre punches.

Tool Sharpening

Drill bit sharpening, chisel sharpening, plane blade restoration, and garden tool maintenance (hoes, mattocks, lawn mower blades) are all well-suited to a bench grinder. The key for sharpening is controlling heat: too much heat draws the temper from high-speed steel (HSS) and carbon steel tools, softening the edge and making it unable to hold a cutting edge. The technique involves light contact, smooth arcs, and frequent cooling in a water dip tray. A white friable aluminium oxide wheel cuts cooler than a standard grey wheel for HSS tooling, and a slow-speed (1,450 RPM) grinder reduces heat risk further — more on this in the speed section below.

Surface Preparation and Cleaning

Wire wheel attachments on a bench grinder are highly effective for rust removal, paint stripping, cleaning threads, and removing scale from welds before inspection or painting. They reach into areas that are difficult to clean with an angle grinder and offer finer, more controlled action. Polishing and buffing wheels are used for surface finishing on metal components.

The Linisher: A Specifically Australian Term

In Australia and New Zealand, a linisher (also called a linishing machine) refers to a belt grinding machine used for flat stock grinding. In the United States and United Kingdom, the same machine is called a belt grinder or belt sander. Some bench grinders accept a linishing attachment that converts the machine to a belt grinder by fitting an abrasive belt between the wheel arbour and an idler arm. If a supplier or colleague refers to a bench linisher or bench grinder/linisher combination, they are describing this type of machine. AIMS stocks dedicated linishing attachments and combination units from Linishall.

Key Parts of a Bench Grinder

Understanding what each component does helps you use the machine correctly, maintain it properly, and spot problems before they become safety issues.

Motor — Induction motors are standard on quality bench grinders. They are robust, maintenance-free, and well suited to intermittent workshop use. Power ratings run from 280 W on a 6” light-duty model to 750 W and above on heavy-duty 8” industrial machines. In Australia, mains frequency is 50 Hz, so standard induction motors run at 2,900 RPM (2-pole) or 1,450 RPM (4-pole). This differs from the United States where 60 Hz mains produces 3,450 RPM or 1,725 RPM — be aware of this when reading US bench grinder guides or spec sheets.

Spindle and flanges — The motor shaft extends from each side. Wheels are clamped between matching recessed flanges. Per AS1788.2 (adopted by SafeWork NSW), flanges must be at least one-third of the wheel diameter. The spindle must be free of burrs, the wheel must fit freely but not loosely, and the clamping nut must be tightened only enough to hold the wheel firmly — overtightening can crack the wheel.

Wheel guards — Cast or pressed steel guards enclose the wheel to the greatest practicable extent. They serve two functions: containing wheel fragments if the wheel bursts, and preventing accidental contact with the rotating wheel. Guards must not be removed or defeated. An adjustable tongue (spark deflector) at the opening compensates for wheel wear as the wheel diameter decreases.

Eye shields — Most bench grinders include a transparent plastic eye shield on an adjustable arm. These are useful but are not a substitute for safety glasses. SafeWork NSW is explicit on this: eye protection must be worn for all grinding operations regardless of whether a machine-mounted shield is fitted. See the AIMS Safety Glasses Guide for AS/NZS-compliant eyewear options.

Tool rest — The adjustable platform directly in front of the wheel face. This is where the workpiece is supported during grinding. SafeWork NSW and AS1788.2 require the gap between the tool rest and the wheel face to be maintained at less than 2 mm as the wheel wears down. A large gap allows the workpiece to jam between the tool rest and the wheel, causing wheel fracture or loss of control. Check and readjust this gap every time a wheel is dressed or replaced. The tool rests supplied with most basic bench grinders are adequate for general use but can be upgraded to precision aftermarket rests for sharpening jig work.

On/off switch and E-Stop — Standard bench grinders use a simple on/off switch. Industrial and workshop models may be fitted with an emergency stop button (E-Stop) that allows knee operation to immediately kill the machine. Abbott & Ashby offer a pedestal-mount E-Stop kit as standard on some models and as an accessory for others — useful for any workshop with multiple operators or where the grinder is regularly used in close proximity to other people.

Bench Grinder Sizes

Bench grinder size refers to the wheel diameter the machine accepts. In Australia, the practical range runs from 150 mm (6”) to 250 mm (10”), with 200 mm (8”) being the most widely sold size for trade and light industrial use.

150 mm (6”) Bench Grinder

A 6” bench grinder is the right choice for a home workshop, small trade setup, or anywhere bench space is limited. Power ratings are typically 280–370 W. The smaller wheel diameter means lower peripheral surface speed at the same RPM compared to an 8” machine, which makes 6” models inherently better for fine sharpening work where heat control is critical. The trade-off is slower stock removal and a narrower range of compatible wheels. Abbott & Ashby supply a 6” industrial bench grinder (280 W), and Linishall’s BG150 offers a heavy-duty 350 W 6” option for more demanding light-trade applications.

200 mm (8”) Bench Grinder

The 8” is the standard for trade workshops and light industrial applications. At 2,900 RPM, an 8” wheel has a substantially higher peripheral surface speed than a 6” at the same RPM — this means faster stock removal and more productive grinding, but also more heat at the workpiece contact point. Power ratings run from 600 W to 750 W. The wider wheel (typically 25 mm standard, 32–38 mm on heavy-duty models) gives a larger working surface, and the greater wheel mass means more consistent speed under load. The 8” is the default recommendation for most AIMS customers.

250 mm (10”) and Larger

Ten-inch bench grinders are heavy-duty industrial machines for sustained high-volume grinding work. Linishall manufactures 10” models in their BG series. These are not the right tool for a general-purpose workshop — they are for high-throughput maintenance environments, toolroom grinding, and applications where productivity at scale justifies the additional cost and floor space.

Which Size Do I Need?

If your primary use is sharpening chisels, plane blades, drill bits, and garden tools in a home workshop: choose a 6” model. If your primary use is trade metalwork, maintenance grinding, or general workshop use with occasional sharpening: choose an 8” model. If you are specifying for a production environment or toolroom with sustained heavy use: consider an 8” heavy-duty or 10” machine from the Linishall range.

Bench Grinder Wheels: Types, Grit and Selection

The wheel is the cutting tool. Getting it right matters more than which grinder brand you buy. The wrong wheel produces poor results, overheats workpieces, and creates safety risks. The right wheel, correctly dressed and speed-matched, is a precision instrument.

Wheel Types by Abrasive

Aluminium oxide — brown/grey (A) is the standard all-purpose wheel that ships with most bench grinders. It is well suited to grinding mild steel, high-speed steel, and general-purpose metalwork. It is harder and less friable than white aluminium oxide, which means it retains its shape well but runs hotter at the contact point. Fine for metalwork; less ideal for HSS tool sharpening where heat management is critical.

White aluminium oxide (WA) is a softer, more friable version of aluminium oxide. When a grain dulls, it breaks away more easily, exposing a fresh cutting edge. This self-sharpening action means the wheel runs cooler, making it the preferred choice for sharpening HSS chisels, plane blades, and lathe tools where drawing temper is a real risk. White wheels are commonly available in 8” format and are a worthwhile upgrade for any workshop focused on woodworking or fine tool maintenance.

Silicon carbide — green (GC) is used for grinding tungsten carbide tooling, such as carbide-tipped router bits, lathe inserts, and drill bits with carbide tips. Do not use a standard aluminium oxide wheel on carbide — it will glaze and generate excessive heat without effective cutting.

Silicon carbide — black (C) is suited to non-ferrous metals (aluminium, copper, brass), cast iron, stone, and ceramic. It is more friable than green SiC and cuts at a lower pressure.

CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are the premium option for HSS tool sharpening. They maintain their shape indefinitely (no dressing required), run extremely cool, and deliver a precise, consistent bevel. The initial cost is high, but a CBN wheel outlasts dozens of conventional wheels for woodworking sharpening applications.

Wire wheels are not abrasive in the grinding sense — they clean and de-scale rather than remove metal. Crimped wire is used for light cleaning and paint removal; knotted wire for aggressive rust and scale removal. Check the maximum RPM rating; wire wheels must not exceed their rated speed. The Wire Brush & Wire Wheel Guide covers full RPM matching by brush size, bristle injury safety, and the Linishall + Pferd wire wheel range stocked at AIMS.

Polishing and buffing wheels (sisal, cotton, felt) are used with polishing compound for surface finishing. These require lower speeds than abrasive wheels — ensure your grinder speed is compatible.

Grit Selection Guide

A practical workshop setup is two wheels: one coarse (36–46 grit) for heavy work and reshaping damaged edges, and one medium-fine (80–100 grit) for sharpening and finishing. Running both on the same grinder is the standard trade configuration — most bench grinders ship with a 36 and 60 grit wheel for exactly this reason.

On the PAA question “which wheel is finer, 60 grit or 36 grit?”: 60 grit is finer. Higher grit numbers mean smaller abrasive particles and a smoother finish. Lower grit numbers mean coarser abrasive and faster, more aggressive cutting.

Understanding Wheel Markings

Every abrasive wheel carries a marking system that identifies its composition. A typical marking looks like: A 60 K 5 V 35 m/s. Reading left to right: abrasive type (A = aluminium oxide), grit size (60), grade/hardness (K = medium-soft on an A–Z scale where A is softest and Z is hardest), structure number (density of abrasive, optional), bond type (V = vitrified, the most common for bench grinding wheels), and maximum operating speed (35 m/s in this example). The maximum speed on the wheel label must always be checked against the spindle speed of your grinder — this is a SafeWork NSW and AS1788.2 requirement, not a guideline. For a complete breakdown of abrasive types, spec codes, grit and grade selection — including wheel dressing and ring testing — see the AIMS Grinding Disc and Wheel Guide.

Wheel Speed Rating: Non-Negotiable

The maximum operating speed marked on an abrasive wheel must exceed the spindle speed of the grinder it is fitted to. Installing a wheel with an insufficient speed rating is a serious safety risk: the wheel can burst at operating speed, ejecting fragments at lethal velocity. SafeWork NSW documents an example of a 300 mm abrasive wheel that fractured during operation, resulting in a fatality. This is not a theoretical risk. Check every wheel before fitting.

Wheel Dressing: The Overlooked Essential

As a grinding wheel is used, the abrasive grains become dull and the spaces between them become clogged with metal swarf — a condition called loading or glazing. A loaded wheel generates excessive heat, cuts slowly, and vibrates unevenly. Dressing removes the outer layer of worn abrasive, exposing fresh sharp grains underneath.

A star wheel dresser (also called a nib dresser or revolving cutter dresser) is the standard tool. Hook the heel of the dresser over the tool rest, start the grinder, and apply the dresser to the wheel face with even, traversing passes. Dress lightly and frequently rather than heavily and rarely — SafeWork NSW specifically recommends this approach. Diamond dressers are an alternative that provide a finer, truer wheel face for precision sharpening work.

Standard Speed vs Slow Speed: Which Do You Need?

This is the most debated topic in bench grinder forums, and the answer is more nuanced than either camp admits.

Standard bench grinders run at 2,900 RPM in Australia (50 Hz mains, 2-pole motor). Slow-speed bench grinders run at 1,450 RPM (50 Hz, 4-pole motor). Note that these differ from the US equivalents (3,450 and 1,725 RPM) because US mains runs at 60 Hz — a detail that matters if you are reading American bench grinder guides.

The peripheral surface speed — the actual speed at the wheel rim — is what generates heat at the workpiece contact point. An 8” wheel at 2,900 RPM has a higher peripheral speed than a 6” wheel at the same RPM, meaning an 8” standard grinder runs “hotter” at the edge than a 6” machine at identical RPM.

When Standard Speed Is the Right Choice

For metalwork grinding, deburring, weld dressing, rust removal, reshaping cold chisels and punches, and any task involving aggressive stock removal: a standard 2,900 RPM grinder with a 36–60 grit aluminium oxide wheel is the correct tool. The higher speed provides productive cutting rates. Heat is managed through technique (light contact, smooth arcs, don’t hold the workpiece stationary).

When Slow Speed Makes Sense

For HSS tool sharpening (chisels, plane blades, woodturning tools, lathe tools), slow speed genuinely reduces the risk of heat damage. A 1,450 RPM grinder running a white friable aluminium oxide wheel is the safest combination for maintaining the temper of finely hardened steel. The slower speed also provides more control, which helps with precision bevel angles.

That said, many experienced woodworkers and machinists successfully sharpen HSS tools on standard-speed grinders by using white wheels, a very light touch, and a water dip tray. The slow-speed grinder is a comfort margin, not an absolute requirement, if technique is right. For a beginner sharpening for the first time, the slow-speed machine is the more forgiving choice.

The Practical Recommendation

If your work is primarily metalwork and maintenance grinding: buy a standard-speed 8” grinder. If your work is primarily woodworking tool sharpening and you have no metalwork use case: buy a slow-speed 6” or 8” grinder. If you do both: buy a standard 8” and fit one grey wheel (metalwork) and one white friable wheel (sharpening). Use light technique on the sharpening side and keep a water dip tray handy.

How to Use a Bench Grinder Safely

Bench grinders are covered by SafeWork NSW’s Safe Use of Abrasive Wheels fact sheet, which references Australian Standards AS1788.1 (Design, construction and safeguarding) and AS1788.2 (Selection, care and use). The following steps are drawn from these requirements.

Pre-Use Inspection

Before starting the grinder, check: the wheel is undamaged, unloaded, and dimensionally acceptable; the tool rest is adjusted to less than 2 mm from the wheel face and locked; the wheel guard is secure and undamaged; the adjustable tongue/spark deflector is set to the smallest practicable gap; the spindle has no excessive play; the electrical supply, leads, and RCD (where fitted) are in good condition.

The Ring Test

Before fitting a new or returned wheel, perform a ring test. Suspend the wheel from its bore (a finger through the centre hole for smaller wheels; on a clean, hard surface for large wheels). Tap the wheel lightly with a non-metallic implement — a screwdriver handle or wooden dowel works well. A sound wheel produces a clear, metallic ring. A dull or dead sound indicates a cracked wheel. Do not use it. This test is specified in AS1788.2 and the SafeWork NSW fact sheet.

New Wheel Trial Run

After fitting any new or re-fitted wheel, run the grinder at full speed for at least one minute before applying the workpiece. During this trial run, stand clear of the wheel plane — and ensure everyone in the area does the same. This allows any latent defect in the wheel to manifest at speed before a person is in contact with it.

PPE Requirements

Safety glasses or a face shield must be worn for all bench grinding operations. The machine-mounted eye shield does not replace this requirement — SafeWork NSW is explicit on this point. Flying abrasive particles and metal fragments are generated in every grinding operation; the built-in shield alone is not adequate protection. For heavy grinding work, a full face shield over safety glasses is recommended. For full PPE guidance see the AIMS Safety Glasses Guide and the AIMS Hi-Vis & PPE Guide.

Additional PPE considerations: do not wear loose clothing or jewellery that could be drawn into the wheel. Tie back long hair. Leather gloves are appropriate for metalwork grinding but not for precision sharpening work where tactile feedback is needed. Hearing protection is appropriate for extended grinding sessions.

Safe Operating Steps

1. Put on safety glasses before approaching the machine.
2. Check tool rest gap (<2 mm), guards, and wheel condition.
3. Start the grinder and let it reach full speed before applying the workpiece.
4. Bring the workpiece to the wheel with gradual, even pressure — never slam or jam it against the wheel face.
5. Grind on the peripheral (outer) face of the wheel only. Side grinding is prohibited unless the wheel type specifically permits it — most bonded abrasive wheels do not.
6. Move the workpiece in smooth, traversing arcs. Never hold it stationary against the wheel — this causes heat buildup at one point and can glaze the wheel.
7. For tool sharpening: make a short pass, dip the tool in water, check the edge, repeat. Do not grind until the tool turns blue — blue colour indicates the temper has been drawn.
8. Do not apply excessive pressure. The wheel’s abrasive characteristics govern its cutting rate — forcing the work just glazes the wheel and overheats the workpiece.
9. Hold small workpieces with locking pliers rather than bare fingers to keep hands away from the wheel and protect against burn from hot metal.
10. Switch off when done. Do not leave the grinder running unattended.

Silica Dust Warning

Grinding stone, concrete, ceramic, or certain composite materials on a bench grinder generates respirable crystalline silica (RCS) dust. This is a SafeWork NSW priority hazard associated with silicosis, a serious and irreversible lung disease. If grinding these materials, use respiratory protection (minimum P2 respirator to AS/NZS 1716) and ensure adequate ventilation or extraction. Do not grind these materials indoors without forced ventilation.

Maintenance

Keep the grinder clean and free from grinding dust accumulation. Check the wheel condition before each use. Dress the wheel when it shows signs of loading, glazing, or vibration. If the grinder vibrates excessively and dressing does not resolve it, the wheel may be out of balance and should be replaced. Store replacement wheels in a dry area away from temperature extremes and physical impact.

Mounting Your Bench Grinder

A bench grinder that is not secured is a hazard. Vibration during operation can walk an unsecured grinder off a bench; a workpiece catching on the wheel can overturn it. Bolt the grinder down — this is a requirement, not a suggestion.

For bench mounting, use M10 or larger bolts through the base holes into a solid timber or steel workbench. For workshop installation where bench space is at a premium, a dedicated pedestal is the better option — it elevates the grinder to the correct working height, provides a stable base with a large footprint, and often includes a bucket holder for the water dip tray and tool storage.

Correct working height is important. The wheel centre should be approximately at elbow height for the operator. Too low forces the operator to hunch, reducing control; too high creates a poor sight line to the work. Most bench grinder pedestals are adjustable or come in standard heights to suit the majority of operators.

Anti-vibration mounts between the grinder base and the bench or pedestal surface reduce transmitted vibration and improve finish quality, particularly for fine sharpening work. If the grinder is floor-mounted on a pedestal in an area where others are working, position it so that the wheel plane faces away from other operators and equipment — in the event of a wheel burst, fragments travel in the plane of rotation.

Bench Grinders at AIMS Industrial

AIMS stocks bench grinders from Abbott & Ashby and Linishall — two brands that between them cover every serious use case from home workshop sharpening to sustained heavy industrial grinding. Here is how to match the right machine to your work.

Abbott & Ashby: The Trade Standard

Abbott & Ashby bench grinders are cast iron body machines built for trade and light industrial use. Cast iron (versus pressed steel) matters: it absorbs vibration better, runs more quietly, and provides the rigidity needed for consistent finish quality over years of use. The capacitor start-stop motor delivers high starting torque and consistent running speed under load. Sealed-for-life ball bearings in the spindle require no maintenance and provide long service life in dusty workshop environments.

All Abbott & Ashby bench grinders ship with 36 and 60 grit aluminium oxide wheels and fully adjustable tool rests. The 50 mm wide wheel guards are designed to accept wire wheels without modification — useful for workshops that want a wire wheel on one side and a grinding wheel on the other.

For general trade use — deburring fabricated parts, maintaining tools, weld dressing — the Abbott & Ashby 8” 600W Industrial Bench Grinder with Heavy Duty Pedestal is the straightforward choice. It includes the grinder and pedestal in one package, ready to bolt down and use.

For workshops with multiple operators, a high-throughput environment, or any situation where a WHS compliance officer will be walking through the door, the Abbott & Ashby 8” 600W Bench Grinder with E-Stop & Pedestal adds a knee-operated emergency stop to the same package. The E-Stop can be retrofitted to any 10-amp machine and mounts directly to the pedestal. At the price difference between the two packages, it is worth fitting as standard in any formal workplace.

A 6” 280 W model is available for home workshops and lighter-duty applications where a smaller footprint is needed. Browse the full Abbott & Ashby bench grinder range at AIMS →

Linishall: Australian Heavy Industrial

Linishall has been supplying industrial grinding equipment to Australian workshops for decades. The brand originated in Sydney and is now distributed through Garrick Herbert — one of Australia’s most established industrial machinery distributors. Linishall machines are specified for sustained heavy use in demanding environments: toolrooms, heavy fabrication, maintenance workshops, and industrial production lines.

The Linishall BG8 (200 mm, 750 W) and BGW200 (200 mm, 750 W Workshop) are heavy-duty 8” machines that run at higher wattage than Abbott & Ashby equivalents, with correspondingly greater stock removal rates under sustained load. The BG8/915 combines an 8” bench grinder with a full linishing attachment — a 50 × 915 mm abrasive belt and 180 mm sanding disc for flat stock work. This is the machine for workshops that need both rotary grinding and flat belt grinding in one unit.

For dedicated belt grinding, the Linishall Bench Mounted Belt Grinder is a continuous-rated 1.1 kW (1.5 HP) TEFC motor machine available in single-phase and three-phase configurations. It is a serious production tool for workshops running belt grinding on a daily basis.

Linishall machines are also notable for their adjustable eye shields with integrated magnifying glass — a practical feature for operators doing precision finishing or inspection work at the grinder. View the full Linishall range at AIMS →

Which Should You Choose?

Not sure which is right for your setup? Call the AIMS team on (02) 9773 0122 or email sales@aimsindustrial.com.au — we’ll help you spec the right machine.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a bench grinder good for?

A bench grinder is primarily used for tool sharpening (drill bits, chisels, plane blades, garden tools), general metalwork (deburring, shaping, weld dressing), rust and paint removal (with wire wheel), and surface finishing (with polishing wheel). It excels at any task that benefits from a controlled, stable grind where the workpiece is brought to the machine.

What size bench grinder do I need?

For home workshops and primarily tool sharpening: 6” (150mm). For trade and general workshop use: 8” (200mm). For heavy industrial and toolroom work: 8” heavy-duty or 10”. The 8” is the most versatile size and the right default for most workshop applications.

What is the difference between a 6 inch and 8 inch bench grinder?

At the same RPM, an 8” wheel has a higher peripheral (rim) surface speed than a 6” wheel, which means faster stock removal but also more heat at the contact point. An 8” machine is more productive for metalwork. A 6” machine runs cooler at the same RPM, which makes it safer for heat-sensitive sharpening work. The 8” is more powerful (typically 600–750W vs 280–370W) and accepts a wider range of wheel types and sizes.

What speed should a bench grinder run at?

In Australia (50Hz mains), standard bench grinders run at 2,900 RPM and slow-speed models at 1,450 RPM. Note that American bench grinder guides quote 3,450 RPM (standard) and 1,725 RPM (slow) because US mains runs at 60Hz — these figures do not apply to Australian machines.

Do I need a slow-speed bench grinder?

For HSS tool sharpening (chisels, plane blades, woodturning tools): a slow-speed grinder is a sensible choice, especially for beginners, as it reduces heat risk and provides more control. For metalwork, deburring, and general grinding: a standard-speed grinder is the right tool. If you do both, a standard-speed grinder with a white friable aluminium oxide wheel and good technique is workable for sharpening — but a slow-speed machine is more forgiving.

What grinding wheel should I use for sharpening chisels?

A white aluminium oxide (WA) wheel in 80–100 grit is the standard recommendation for chisels and plane blades. White wheels are more friable than grey wheels, meaning worn grains break away to expose fresh abrasive — this self-sharpening action results in cooler grinding. Avoid the standard grey wheel that ships with most grinders for fine tool sharpening; it runs hotter and can draw the temper from carbon steel and HSS.

What grinding wheel should I use for sharpening drill bits?

A standard aluminium oxide wheel in 60 grit works for general drill bit sharpening. Use 36 grit for heavily damaged bits that need significant reshaping, and 80 grit for a finer edge. For carbide-tipped masonry bits, you need a silicon carbide (green) or diamond wheel. Keep the bit moving to avoid heat buildup, and dip frequently in water.

What is the ring test for grinding wheels?

The ring test checks for cracks that may not be visible. Suspend the wheel from its bore (a finger through the centre hole for small wheels; on a hard, clean surface for large wheels). Tap the wheel lightly with a non-metallic object — a screwdriver handle or wooden dowel. A sound wheel produces a clear metallic ring. A dull or dead sound means the wheel may be cracked and must not be used. This test is specified in Australian Standard AS1788.2 and required by SafeWork NSW.

What is a linisher, and how is it different from a bench grinder?

A linisher (also called a linishing machine or belt grinder) uses a continuous abrasive belt running between rollers to grind flat or contoured surfaces. A bench grinder uses a rotating abrasive wheel. In Australia and New Zealand, “linisher” is the standard term for what is called a belt grinder in the US and UK. Some bench grinders accept linishing attachments that convert the machine for belt grinding work. Dedicated linishing machines from Linishall offer continuous belt grinding for high-volume flat stock work.

Can I use a bench grinder to sharpen HSS lathe tools?

Yes. HSS lathe tools are commonly sharpened on bench grinders. Use a white aluminium oxide wheel to minimise heat, keep the tool moving across the wheel face, and dip regularly in water. The goal is to maintain the tool profile and cutting angles without overheating the HSS. Carbide inserts cannot be sharpened on a standard bench grinder — they require a silicon carbide (green) or diamond wheel.

What are the safety rules for bench grinders in Australia?

SafeWork NSW’s Safe Use of Abrasive Wheels fact sheet (references AS1788.1 and AS1788.2) sets out the key requirements: the wheel’s maximum speed rating must exceed the grinder’s spindle speed; perform a ring test before fitting any wheel; run new wheels at full speed for one minute before use with everyone clear; maintain the tool rest gap at less than 2mm as the wheel wears; wear eye protection for all grinding operations (machine shields do not replace this); and never grind on the wheel side unless the wheel type specifically permits it.

Should I use a bench grinder or an angle grinder?

Use a bench grinder when you are bringing the work to the machine — sharpening, precise shaping, controlled deburring, or any task where stability and repeatability matter. Use an angle grinder when you are taking the machine to the work — cutting, surface grinding, rust removal on a large fixed workpiece, concrete cutting, or tasks where a fixed machine is impractical. Many workshops need both. For the full angle grinder guide, see the AIMS Angle Grinder Guide.

How do I dress a grinding wheel?

A star wheel dresser (revolving cutter type) is the standard tool. Hook the heel of the dresser over the tool rest with the grinder running. Apply the dresser to the wheel face and traverse it across the wheel in smooth passes. Remove only a small amount of material per pass — frequent light dressing is preferable to occasional heavy dressing. Dress whenever the wheel shows signs of glazing (shiny, smeared surface), loading (swarf packed into the pores), or excessive vibration. After dressing, readjust the tool rest gap to less than 2mm.

Is it safe to use a damaged or old grinding wheel?

No. Do not use any wheel that shows cracks, chips, or impact damage, fails the ring test, exceeds its stamped expiry date, or has been dropped. Damaged abrasive wheels can fracture at operating speed, ejecting fragments at high velocity. SafeWork NSW documents fatalities caused by abrasive wheel bursts. Store wheels in dry conditions, handle carefully, and discard any wheel that shows damage or that fails the ring test.