Reciprocating Saw Blade Guide: TPI, Materials & Selection

The blade is more important than the saw. A budget cordless reciprocating saw with the right blade outcuts a premium saw with the wrong blade every time. Get the TPI wrong and you'll burn through blades, hours and timber; get it right and one $13 blade does an afternoon of demolition work. This guide is the AEO-first reference on TPI selection, bi-metal vs TCT carbide trade-off, demolition vs pruning blade classes, and the Australian Sutton + Bordo supply position — built for the AU construction, demolition, maintenance, plumbing and arboriculture trades that buy blades by the box.

What is a reciprocating saw blade?

A reciprocating saw blade is a flat, narrow, toothed cutting blade designed to be driven back-and-forth at high speed (2,500–3,000 strokes per minute) by a reciprocating saw. The blade cuts on the pull stroke as the saw shoe is pressed against the workpiece. Blades range from 100mm to 300mm long, between 12mm and 25mm wide, and from 3 to 24 teeth per inch (TPI) depending on the material being cut.

The reciprocating saw blade replaced the hacksaw as the workshop and site standard for fast cutting of wood, metal, plastic, masonry edge, and composites. Where a hacksaw might take five minutes to cut through a 50mm steel pipe, a recip saw with the right blade does it in fifteen seconds. The trade-off is precision — recip saws are aggressive, not fine — and blade consumption: every cut uses some blade life, and blade selection determines whether that life is hours or minutes.

Sawzall, sabre saw, recip saw — naming disambiguation

Sawzall, sabre saw, and reciprocating saw all refer to the same tool class. "Sawzall" is the genericised brand name from Milwaukee Tool (their 1951 Sawzall was the first commercial reciprocating saw, and the trademark stuck the way "Hoover" stuck for vacuum cleaners). "Sabre saw" is the older British and Australian term, increasingly replaced by "recip saw" or "reciprocating saw" since cordless 18V saws went mainstream.

In AU industrial distribution all three terms are interchangeable. Blade products are labelled "Reciprocating Saw Blade" or "Sabre Saw Blade" depending on the manufacturer, but they all fit the same universal recip saw shoe and tang. A Sutton sabre saw blade fits a Milwaukee Sawzall fits a Makita recip saw fits a Ryobi cordless — the tang and locking mechanism are universal across major brands.

TPI explained — the master selection variable

TPI (teeth per inch) is the single most important blade specification. Lower TPI (3-6) means fewer, larger teeth — fast, aggressive cuts in soft material like wood. Higher TPI (18-24) means more, smaller teeth — slower, finer cuts in hard material like sheet metal. Get TPI right and the blade lasts; get it wrong and you'll snap blades in minutes.

The workshop rule from industry consensus: at least three teeth should be in contact with the material at all times. Cutting 3mm sheet metal with a 6 TPI blade means each tooth is too far apart — the blade catches and snaps. Cutting 75mm timber with a 24 TPI blade means too many teeth are loaded — the blade overheats and the cut takes forever. Match TPI to material thickness.

Blade materials — HCS, bi-metal, TCT/carbide

The blade body material determines blade life and what you can cut. Three material grades dominate: HCS (high carbon steel) for wood-only soft cuts, bi-metal (HSS teeth welded to spring steel body) for general workshop use, and TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) for hardened steels, cast iron, and abrasive materials.

The buying rule: bi-metal for 90% of workshop cuts. TCT/carbide only when you're cutting cast iron, stainless steel, hardened steel, or fibre cement at scale — the 20× life on those materials offsets the 3-4× higher per-blade cost. HCS only for dedicated pruning blades and tear-out demolition where blade survival isn't the priority.

AIMS stocks all three tiers. Sutton's bi-metal range covers H505-H530 series ($8.35-$25.68). TCT carbide options include the Sutton H539 TCT Reciprocating Saw Blade Carbide Teeth ($29.91) and the premium Bordo 6TPI Xtreme Reciprocating Saw Blade ($123.05) for heavy-duty production work.

Material-by-material blade selection

The right blade depends entirely on what you're cutting. Below is the AU workshop reference matched to specific Sutton and Bordo products for each material category. Pick the blade by material first; size and length second.

The full reciprocating saw blade range covers every standard material category at three price tiers — $8 entry (Sutton H-series single packs), $20-30 mid (Sutton TCT, 2-packs), $60-120 premium (Bordo Arborist and Xtreme carbide).

Blade length and width — sizing to the cut

The minimum blade length is the material thickness plus 50mm — the blade must overrun the cut on every stroke or it binds. Standard AU reciprocating saw blade lengths are 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 225mm, and 300mm. For most cuts under 100mm thickness, a 150mm or 200mm blade is the right choice. For demolition timber, structural steel, or thick masonry edges, 225mm or 300mm gives the overrun room needed.

Blade width affects rigidity. Wider blades (19-25mm) cut straighter and resist bending — ideal for straight cuts in structural material. Narrower blades (12-16mm) bend on demand for curved or scroll cuts. The Sutton H507 300mm Wood & Nails uses a wider body for straight demolition cuts; the H525 Green Wood has a narrower body for sweeping pruning cuts.

Blade thickness matters for demolition: heavy-duty blades at 0.050"-0.062" (1.27-1.57mm) thick survive nail strikes and prying without snapping. Standard duty blades at 0.035"-0.042" (0.89-1.07mm) are fine for clean material but snap when you start prying with the blade — which you shouldn't but everyone does.

Demolition blades — the heavy-gauge class

Demolition blades are bi-metal blades thickened to 0.050"-0.062" and tooth-set wider for aggressive material removal, nail strikes, and field abuse. They're the blade you reach for when you're cutting through framing studs with embedded nails, demolishing pallets, or stripping out roof structures — work where a standard blade snaps within minutes.

The defining features of a demolition blade:

• Thicker body (1.27-1.57mm vs 0.89-1.07mm standard) survives prying and side-loading
• Bi-metal construction with HSS teeth that survive nail impact without immediate dulling
• Aggressive TPI (5-8) — fast cuts in mixed material
• Hypercut tooth geometry — alternating tooth set with deep gullets for chip clearance through demolition debris

AIMS demolition blade selection:

• Sutton H505 Demolition Reciprocating Blade — Metal Hypercut ($16.54) — for steel demolition (rebar, light angle, structural)
• Sutton H506 Demolition Reciprocating Blade — Wood Hypercut ($16.54) — for timber demolition (framing, pallets, roof structures)
• Sutton H507 300mm Wood & Nails 5-8 TPI 2 Pack ($25.68) — long demolition blade for thick timber with embedded fasteners

The 2-pack pricing on demolition blades is deliberate — they wear faster than general blades, and trade buyers replace them on every job. Workshop assortment kits typically include 4-6 demolition blades for the same reason: high-consumption category.

Specialty blades — plasterboard, pallet, insulation, arborist

Specialty blades are purpose-engineered for materials standard blades handle poorly. Five AU workshop specialty categories: plasterboard cuts, pallet repair, building insulation, tree pruning, and stainless/cast iron via TCT.

• Plasterboard / gyprock / drywall — fine TPI offset tooth blade prevents tear-out of the paper facing. Sutton H530 Plasterboard ($8.35) is the AU workshop default. Cuts cleanly without crumbling the gypsum core.
• Pallet repair — 5-8 TPI bi-metal optimised for the mixed wood/nail composition of standard AU export pallets (Chep-style). Sutton H528 Pallet Repair ($12.06) — the dedicated pallet refurbisher's blade.
• Building insulation — 3 TPI fine offset tooth blade designed for compressible material. Sutton H534 Insulation Ultra 300mm 3 TPI 2 Pack ($29.17) cuts rockwool, fibreglass batts, foam, and acoustic insulation without compressing or shredding.
• Tree pruning — coarse 5-6 TPI Japanese-tooth style for fast clean cuts in green wood. The Bordo Arborist Reciprocating Saw Blade ($60.56) is the arboriculture professional's choice — cuts 75mm branches in under 30 seconds without binding.
• TCT carbide for hardened materials — covered above (cast iron, stainless, fibre cement, hardened bolts).

Cutting technique — feed pressure, blade orientation, shoe contact

Apply firm but moderate feed pressure, keep the shoe pressed firmly against the workpiece throughout the cut, and let the blade do the work. Pushing harder doesn't cut faster — it bends the blade, accelerates wear, and risks blade snap. The two universal technique rules: shoe contact + appropriate feed.

1. Shoe contact mandatory. The recip saw shoe is a load-bearing surface — pressed firmly against the workpiece, it transfers cutting reaction force into the workpiece rather than into the blade. Without shoe contact, the cutting force bends the blade laterally and snaps it. This is non-negotiable.
2. Let the saw set the rhythm. Reciprocating saws run at 2,500-3,000 SPM (strokes per minute). The blade cuts on every pull stroke. Pushing the saw faster than its rhythm makes you bend the blade against the workpiece. Steady moderate feed — the blade pulls itself through.
3. Use the full blade length. Don't oscillate over a short blade section — you wear teeth in one spot and snap the blade. Let the entire blade pass through the cut on each stroke.
4. Cutting orientation matters. Blade teeth down for floor and structural cuts (gravity assists). Blade teeth up for overhead cuts (saves wrist fatigue). Some pros prefer teeth-up for plunge cuts so they can see the cut line clearly.
5. Plunge cuts — start the saw at idle, ease the blade tip into the workpiece while pivoting the shoe up, then settle the shoe flat as the blade enters fully. Forcing a plunge cut at full RPM snaps blade tips.
6. Pipe cuts — rotate the pipe through the blade if possible rather than rotating the saw around the pipe. Easier on the operator and gives cleaner cuts.

Common mistakes that destroy blades fast

Blade life — when to replace vs when to keep

Reciprocating saw blades wear gradually — most workshop blades last 5-30 cuts depending on material and technique. The signs that a blade has reached end of life and needs replacing: noticeably slower cutting through the same material; teeth visibly missing or broken when held up to light; blade body kinked or visibly bent; blade body discoloured (heat damage); blade cuts wandering off straight on cuts where it didn't before.

The economics:

• Sutton single bi-metal blade $8-13 — replace freely. Don't fight a marginal blade — a fresh blade pays for itself in cut speed within 5 minutes.
• Sutton 2-pack $20-30 — same rule. The 2-pack pricing reflects high-consumption use cases (demolition, mixed-material cuts).
• Sutton/Bordo TCT carbide $30-125 — keep longer. Carbide teeth survive 20× the cuts of bi-metal on hard materials. Inspect teeth carefully before discarding — a slow but functional TCT blade often has 50% life remaining.

The "free replacement" rule applies for bi-metal at trade pricing. Carbide blades are inspected and kept. Most workshops budget 1-2 bi-metal blades per demolition day, 1 carbide blade per month of stainless/cast iron production work.

Sutton AU-made + Bordo brand reality

AIMS stocks two AU brands — Sutton Tools and Bordo — covering 58 SKUs across all standard categories. Both are Australian-distributed; Sutton manufactures in Thomastown VIC, Bordo distributes premium imported product. The selection breakdown:

Premium imported brands NOT stocked at AIMS — Milwaukee, Lenox, Diablo, Bahco, Bosch professional — are available through our supplier network on request. Contact us if you need a specific premium-brand SKU. For most AU workshops, the Sutton + Bordo range covers 100% of standard requirements.

AIMS supply by application

The right starter kit for an AU workshop covers four categories: general wood, wood-and-nails demolition, metal, and sheet metal. Budget $80-150 for a complete starter assortment that handles 95% of workshop cuts. Add TCT carbide as needed.

Tier 1 — Light workshop / occasional use:

• Sutton H525 Green Wood ($8.35) — pruning and soft timber
• Sutton H526 Wood & Nail Bi-Metal ($9.52) — general demolition
• Sutton H519 Metal 3-5mm ($8.45) — general metal
• Sutton H515 Sheet Metal ($8.45) — sheet/ductwork
• Total: $34.77 for 4 blade types covering the workshop spectrum

Tier 2 — Regular workshop / trade use:

• Sutton H506 Demolition Wood Hypercut ($16.54) ×2
• Sutton H509 Metal Dominator ($12.61) ×2
• Sutton H513 Sheet Metal Dominator ($12.61) ×1
• Sutton H507 Wood & Nails 300mm 2 Pack ($25.68) — long demolition
• Sutton H530 Plasterboard ($8.35) ×1
• Total: ~$112 for a complete trade assortment

Tier 3 — Heavy-use / production / specialty:

• All Tier 2 blades
• Sutton H539 TCT Carbide ($29.91) — stainless and cast iron
• Bordo 6TPI Xtreme ($123.05) — heavy production metal/abrasive
• Bordo Arborist ($60.56) — if pruning work is regular
• Sutton H534 Insulation Ultra 2 Pack ($29.17) — if insulation work is regular
• Add as needed for application mix

Pruning with a reciprocating saw — when it beats a chainsaw

A reciprocating saw with the right blade beats a chainsaw for branches under 75mm diameter, for one-handed overhead work, and for cuts in confined spaces. Chainsaws win on speed for trunk-diameter cuts; recip saws win on safety, weight, and accessibility for the 80% of arborist work that's small-diameter branch removal.

The Bordo Arborist Reciprocating Saw Blade ($60.56) is the dedicated pruning blade for cordless 18V/36V recip saws. Japanese-style aggressive teeth cut on the pull stroke through green wood up to 100mm diameter. The advantages over a chainsaw for pruning work:

• Lighter — half the weight of a comparable chainsaw, less fatigue on a long pruning day
• One-handed capable — important for overhead and ladder work
• Safer — no kickback risk (the major chainsaw injury mechanism)
• Quieter — neighbour-friendly for residential pruning
• No fuel mix, no chain tensioning, no bar oil — cordless battery and a blade
• Tighter spaces — narrower cutting envelope fits between branches a chainsaw can't reach

Chainsaw still wins on: trunk cuts over 200mm diameter, all-day production logging, dropping mature trees. For the arborist, gardener, or landscaper doing branch removal, residential tree shaping, hedge management, and shrub clearing, a 36V cordless recip saw with the Bordo Arborist blade is the modern professional tool.

Recip saw vs hacksaw vs angle grinder cutting disc

The reciprocating saw is the high-volume cutting tool — it beats a hacksaw on speed and an angle grinder on safety and precision for most workshop cuts. Each tool has a sweet spot; the recip saw owns the middle ground.

• Reciprocating saw vs hacksaw: Recip saw is 10-20× faster on every cut. Hacksaw wins only when you need quiet, controlled, hand-fed precision in tight spaces with no power available.
• Reciprocating saw vs angle grinder cutting disc: Recip saw is safer (no rotating disc kickback risk), produces no spark/heat zone, and handles wood-and-nail mixed material. Angle grinder wins on hardened steel, on very thin material where the disc gives a cleaner cut, and on continuous structural steel where speed matters more than safety margin.
• Reciprocating saw vs hole saw: Different cut shape entirely. Recip saw cuts straight or curved lines; hole saw cuts round holes. Use both as needed.
• Reciprocating saw vs jigsaw: Recip saw is for rough demolition and structural cutting. Jigsaw is for fine curved cuts in clean material. Different tools, different jobs.

The reciprocating saw is the demolition + maintenance + plumbing tool. The hacksaw, angle grinder, and jigsaw fill the gaps either side. See the Angle Grinder Guide for the rotary cutting alternative, or the Hacksaw Blade Guide for hand cutting.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a reciprocating saw blade and what does it cut?

A reciprocating saw blade is a flat toothed blade driven back-and-forth at 2,500-3,000 strokes per minute by a reciprocating saw. The blade cuts on the pull stroke. With the right TPI and material, it cuts wood, wood with embedded nails, metal pipe, sheet metal, plasterboard, fibre cement, pallets, building insulation, and tree branches. The blade material determines what it can cut: HCS for wood only, bi-metal for general workshop cuts, TCT carbide for hardened steel, stainless, and abrasive materials.

What's the difference between a sawzall blade and a sabre saw blade?

Sawzall and sabre saw blades are the same product. "Sawzall" is the genericised Milwaukee brand name (Milwaukee's 1951 Sawzall was the first commercial reciprocating saw). "Sabre saw" is the older British and Australian term. "Reciprocating saw" is the current AU industrial term. All three terms refer to identical blades — universal tang fits all major brand recip saws (Milwaukee, Makita, DeWalt, Ryobi, Bosch, Metabo).

How do I choose the right TPI for what I'm cutting?

Match TPI to material thickness so at least 3 teeth are in contact at all times. Wood roughing 3-6 TPI; wood with nails 6-10 TPI; metal pipe and structural 10-14 TPI; mid-thickness metal 14-18 TPI; thin sheet metal 18-24 TPI. Get TPI wrong and the blade snaps in minutes (too few teeth in contact) or burns out from heat (too many teeth loaded). The material-by-material selection table in this guide gives the AU workshop-tested TPI for each cut type.

What TPI for wood?

3-6 TPI for soft green wood and pruning (Sutton H525 Green Wood). 5-8 TPI for wood with embedded nails and demolition framing (Sutton H507 Wood & Nails). 6-10 TPI for general wood cuts (Sutton H526 Wood & Nail Bi-Metal). The lower the TPI, the faster and rougher the cut.

What TPI for metal?

10-14 TPI for thick metal — pipe, rebar, angle iron, channel (Sutton H509 Metal Dominator). 14-18 TPI for mid-thickness metal and structural shapes. 18-24 TPI for thin sheet metal under 3.5mm — ductwork, flashing, body panels (Sutton H518 Sheet Metal 2-3.5mm). The thinner the metal, the higher the TPI needed to keep at least 3 teeth in contact during the cut.

What's the difference between bi-metal and TCT carbide blades?

Bi-metal blades have HSS (high-speed steel) teeth electron-beam welded to a flexible spring steel body — the workshop default for wood, metal, plastic, and mixed-material cuts. TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades have carbide teeth brazed to a spring steel body, giving 20× the cutting life on hardened steel, stainless, cast iron, and fibre cement. TCT costs 3-4× more per blade but lasts dramatically longer on hard materials. Bi-metal for 90% of cuts; TCT for cast iron, stainless, and production hard-material work.

Can I use a wood blade on metal?

No. HCS (high carbon steel) wood blades shear teeth off in seconds on any metal. Bi-metal blades labelled for wood and nails can handle occasional metal contact (a nail embedded in timber, for example) but lose teeth quickly on continuous metal cuts. Use a dedicated metal blade for any metal cutting — the Sutton H509 Dominator or H510 Mega Sharp for thick metal, the H513 or H518 series for sheet metal.

What's a demolition blade and when do I need one?

A demolition blade is a thick-bodied bi-metal blade (0.050"-0.062" thickness vs 0.035" standard) with 5-8 TPI hypercut teeth, engineered to survive nail strikes, prying, and field abuse during demolition work. You need one when cutting through framing studs with embedded nails, demolishing pallets, stripping out roof structures, or doing any job where the blade will see side loads and impact. Sutton H505 (metal demolition) and H506 (wood demolition) are AU workshop standards at $16.54 each.

How long do reciprocating saw blades last?

Bi-metal blades last 5-30 cuts depending on material hardness, TPI match, and technique. A 6 TPI demolition blade cuts 10-15 stud demolition cuts before noticeable performance drop. A 14 TPI metal blade cuts 20-30 pipe cuts in mild steel. TCT carbide blades last 20× longer on the materials they're designed for — 200-600 cuts on cast iron or stainless. Bi-metal blades at $8-13 are replaced freely; carbide blades at $30-125 are inspected and kept longer.

Can I prune trees with a reciprocating saw blade?

Yes — and it's increasingly the preferred tool for branches under 100mm diameter. The Bordo Arborist Reciprocating Saw Blade is engineered specifically for pruning, with Japanese-style aggressive teeth that cut green wood on the pull stroke. Advantages over a chainsaw: half the weight, one-handed capable, no kickback risk, quieter for residential work, no fuel mix or chain tensioning. Chainsaw still wins for trunk-diameter cuts over 200mm and production logging.

What length blade do I need?

Minimum blade length = material thickness + 50mm overrun. Standard lengths are 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 225mm, and 300mm. For most cuts under 100mm thickness, a 150-200mm blade works. For demolition timber, structural steel, or thick masonry edges, 225-300mm gives the overrun room. The blade must completely pass through the cut on every stroke or it binds and snaps.

Why do my blades keep snapping?

Three common causes: (1) Wrong TPI for the material — not enough teeth in contact, blade catches and snaps. (2) Cutting without firm shoe contact — blade bends laterally under load. (3) Prying or side-loading the blade — standard-duty blades break instantly when used as a pry bar. Match TPI to material, keep the shoe pressed firmly against the workpiece throughout the cut, and use demolition-thickness blades (0.050"+) for any work involving prying.

What's the difference between Sutton and Bordo blades?

Both are Australian-distributed brands. Sutton Tools manufactures in Thomastown VIC and dominates the general workshop range (36 SKUs from H505-H540 covering all standard materials at $8.35-$50 pricing). Bordo distributes premium imported product, with 22 SKUs focused on TCT carbide (Xtreme 6TPI and 14TPI), specialty (Arborist for pruning), and heavy-duty metal blades. Sutton is the workshop default for $8-30 blades; Bordo is the premium tier for $60-125 carbide and specialty.

Can I cut concrete with a reciprocating saw?

No — reciprocating saw blades cut concrete poorly. Concrete and masonry need a diamond-impregnated blade on an angle grinder, a wet saw with a diamond blade, or a hammer drill with masonry bits. Recip saws can cut fibre cement sheet (Hardie board) with a TCT carbide blade like the Sutton H540 or Bordo Xtreme — but real concrete, brick, or masonry is the wrong tool. Use the angle grinder for concrete cuts.

What's the best blade for cutting nails in wood?

The Sutton H506 Demolition Wood Hypercut ($16.54) or Sutton H507 300mm Wood & Nails 5-8 TPI 2-Pack ($25.68). Both are bi-metal demolition-thickness blades engineered to survive nail strikes without snapping. The HSS teeth on bi-metal construction handle occasional steel contact (nails, screws, light staples) where a wood-only HCS blade would shear teeth instantly. For pallet repair specifically — high-density mixed wood and nail work — use the Sutton H528 Pallet Repair specialty blade.