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Engineers squares, combination squares and precision steel rules: DIN 875 grades, reversal method testing, graduated vs non-graduated, AU brand selection.
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Read moreGrease Nipple & Zerk Fitting Guide: Sizes, Types & Threads
Need the right spanner for that bolt? Our Spanner Size Chart lists every common metric and imperial size. For tap selection by hole type and material, see our Tap Types Explained guide. For matching ratchet and socket kits, see our ratchets and sockets range. Looking for grease couplers? Our grease couplers range covers the common sizes and brands. For grease nipples, see our grease nipples range stocked across Australia. Grease nipples look simple — they're not. Four global thread standards in use, four body geometries, three materials, and a national split where the rest of the English-speaking world uses one system and Australia uses another. Get the thread wrong and you cross-thread the host casting permanently. Get the body geometry wrong and you can't fit a grease gun onto it. Get the material wrong and you snap the body installing it. This guide covers every thread standard, every body type, every blockage symptom, and the broken-nipple recovery workflow that gets you back to greasing instead of swearing. Common mistakes — failure modes table — Quick Reference Quick reference for grease nipple & zerk fitting guide, drawn from the detailed section below. Mistake What goes wrong Fix Cross-threading 1/8" BSP into 1/8" NPT host (or vice versa) Host casting thread stripped — host casting often unsalvageable without thread repair Always confirm thread before installing. Hand-thread 3 turns minimum without resistance. Over-torquing brass body nipple Body snaps at thread root, stub stuck in host Brass = 8-10 Nm max. Hand-spanner pull only, not a wrench. Forgetting thread sealant on parallel BSP threads Grease leaks past thread under pressure, fitting walks out under vibration PTFE tape or Loctite 577 on all parallel threads. NPT tapered doesn't need sealant. Installing wrong angle (straight where 90° needed) Grease gun coupler won't fit due to access constraints — wasted fitting Check the access angle before ordering. Angled fittings are inexpensive — order a variety pack. Hammering on a blocked nipple to clear it Internal spring damaged, ball valve deformed, body cracked Penetrating oil + tap/vibrate gently. Use Grease Buster tool for stubborn blockages. Specifying mild steel for marine/coastal use Nipple corrodes within 6-12 months, grease passages contaminate Stainless 316/A4 for any marine, food-grade, or coastal application. Modest premium. No grease nipple cap in dusty environment Dust pushed into bearing on first grease stroke after dust exposure Add caps to all exposed nipples on mining/agricultural/outdoor plant. Reusing a damaged nipple after extraction Ball valve compromised, leaks or fails to seal — bearing greasing unreliable Replace any nipple removed for any reason. They're $2-$3 each. Don't reinstall used. What is a grease nipple — and is it the same as a zerk fitting? A grease nipple is a small one-way valve threaded into a bearing housing, pivot pin, joint or moving part. When you attach a grease gun coupler to the nipple and pump the handle, fresh grease enters through the nipple and pushes old, contaminated grease out the other side of the bearing. A spring-loaded check ball seals the nipple between uses so dirt can't enter and grease can't escape. Is a zerk fitting the same thing? Yes. "Zerk" is the US name (after Oscar Zerk, who patented the pin-style fitting in 1929). "Grease nipple" is the Australian, British, European, South African and New Zealand name. Both terms refer to the same product class. AU industrial buyers call them grease nipples; American mechanics, agricultural and 4WD enthusiasts call them zerks. The ball end where the grease gun connects is universally the same dimension across all brands and thread types — only the threaded shank that screws into the host part varies. This guide uses "grease nipple" as the Australian standard term and flags "zerk" where US sources or AU 4WD/agricultural workshops use the import terminology. Both terms are correct. The four thread standards every AU workshop must know Grease nipple confusion is almost always thread confusion. There are four primary global thread standards in active use, and an AU workshop will encounter all four depending on what equipment comes through the door: Standard Where it dominates Common AU applications Identification 1/8" BSP / 1/4" BSP (British Standard Pipe, parallel) UK, AU, NZ, Europe Australian-made plant, agricultural machinery, garden tools, trailers, Australian-spec heavy equipment Parallel thread (no taper); 28 TPI on 1/8", 19 TPI on 1/4". Hex flats often 10mm or 14mm. 1/4"-28 UNF (Unified Fine, parallel) USA, Canada, US-imported automotive and heavy plant worldwide US-spec vehicles, US-built construction equipment, Holden/Ford old-spec, US heavy plant Parallel thread; 28 TPI; hex flats typically 11/32" (8.7mm). 1/8" NPT / 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Tapered) US plumbing-derived applications, US hydraulics US hydraulic cylinders, some US pumps, older US plumbing-grade pivots Tapered thread (visibly cone-shaped shank); 27 TPI on 1/8". Often confused with 1/8" BSP (28 TPI — 1 thread per inch difference). M6×1 / M8×1 / M10×1 / M10×1.25 / M10×1.5 (Metric) European OEMs (Mercedes, MAN, Volvo, Scania, BMW heavy plant) European trucks, European-spec construction equipment, modern European-engineered agricultural plant Parallel thread; metric pitch. Hex flats vary 8mm–13mm depending on size. The AU reality across most workshops: 1/8" BSP is the default for Australian-manufactured equipment, garden machinery, trailers, and most Australian-spec plant. 1/4"-28 UNF appears on automotive (especially older Holden/Ford), US-imported 4WD parts, and US-built heavy plant. M-thread metric shows up wherever European equipment is in service — increasingly common as European trucks and construction plant expand into the AU market. 1/8" NPT is least common but still seen on US hydraulic and pneumatic equipment. Workshop assortment kits like the Champion CA2415 Metric & Imperial Master Kit ($265.12), the Champion CA109 Metric Assortment Kit (105 pieces) ($88.35), the Champion CA108 Imperial Assortment Kit (113 pieces) ($105.66), and the GJ Works GKA144 144-piece Kit ($54.11) include sizes across all four standards specifically because no AU workshop avoids encountering all of them. BSP vs NPT — the apprentice trap that destroys host castings ⚠️ DO NOT CROSS-FIT 1/8" BSP AND 1/8" NPT 1/8" BSP is 28 TPI parallel. 1/8" NPT is 27 TPI tapered. They look almost identical to the eye. A 1/8" NPT nipple will thread two or three turns into a 1/8" BSP hole before galling, locking, and stripping the host thread permanently. Once damaged, the host casting often requires drilling out, tapping oversize, and fitting a Helicoil thread insert to recover. The forum-validated rule (Practical Machinist threads 145629, 245989, and 368040 plus AU industrial supplier consensus): if it doesn't spin in freely by hand for at least three full turns, stop. Wrong thread. The two thread families also seal differently: 1/8" NPT is tapered — the thread wedges itself into the host casting and seals on the thread interface itself as it tightens. No gasket required. 1/8" BSP is parallel (BSPP — British Standard Pipe Parallel) — the thread provides mechanical grip only. Sealing requires either a copper or fibre washer under the head, a small dab of thread sealant on the thread, or a tapered seat in the host casting (BSPT variant, less common in grease nipples). Cross-threading damage is the single most common host-casting failure in AU workshops. The fix is expensive — drill the hole oversize, tap M8 or M10, and fit an oversize Helicoil-style insert (see the Stripped Thread Repair Guide). Prevention is to identify the thread correctly before reaching for a wrench. Body geometry — straight, 45°, 67°, 90° The thread is one half of the selection decision. The body geometry — the angle at which the ball-end sits relative to the thread — is the other half, and it's driven entirely by access. Where there's room to swing a grease gun straight onto the nipple, a straight-body nipple works fine. Where there's no room — and on most modern equipment there isn't — you need an angled body to redirect the grease gun coupler to a usable angle. Geometry Body description Use when AIMS examples Straight (0°) Ball end pointing directly out from the thread axis Open access — pivot pins on swing arms, exposed bearings, workshop fittings. The default. Champion CN161 Straight M6×1 25/Pack, Champion CN3 1/4" UNF Straight 25/Pack, Lubemate Metric Straight Tapered, Champion CGN28 1/8" NPT 100/Pack ($62.50), Champion CGN29 BSP Straight ($58.88), Lubemate UNF Straight 45° Ball end angled 45° from thread axis Mid-restricted access — when straight access exists but at an awkward shoulder angle. Common on chain conveyors, mid-equipment pivots. Alemlube UNF 45° Grease Nipple ($2.55), Champion Grease Nipple Metric Refill 45° ($9.35), Champion 45° refill packs (metric + imperial) 67° Ball end angled 67.5° from thread axis Less common — used where 45° doesn't quite reach and 90° crowds another component. Specified by OEMs for specific applications. Champion Imperial Refill 67° ($7.41) 90° Ball end pointing perpendicular to thread axis Tight access — when the grease gun can only approach from a sideways angle. Common on modern excavator pins, articulated joints, undercarriage points. Alemlube UNF 90° Grease Nipple ($2.55), Champion C1808-13 M6×1 90° Stainless 10pk ($37.25), Champion 90° Metric ($25.81), Champion Grease Nipple Metric Refill 90° ($9.35), Champion Grease Nipple Imperial Refill 90° ($7.93) Practical workshop rule: stock straight, 45°, and 90° in each thread size you encounter regularly. The 67° fittings are usually OEM-spec — order on demand rather than stocking. The Champion refill packs ($6.76–$12.13 each) and the multi-angle assortment kits cover the everyday workshop spectrum. How to identify an unknown grease nipple An unmarked nipple from an unknown source — pulled out of a customer's vehicle, found in a parts bin, or stripped off a serviced asset — needs identifying before you order a replacement. The systematic approach: Look at the thread profile. If the threaded shank is visibly conical (wider at the head, narrower at the tip), it's NPT (tapered). If parallel, it's one of BSP, UNF, or metric. Measure the thread diameter with calipers — the major diameter at the head end. Common diameters: 1/8" BSP: 9.7mm major diameter 1/4" BSP: 13.2mm major diameter 1/4"-28 UNF: 6.35mm major diameter 1/8" NPT: 10.2mm major diameter at the head, tapering down M6×1: 6.0mm major diameter M8×1: 8.0mm major diameter M10×1: 10.0mm major diameter Count the threads per inch (TPI) or measure the pitch. A thread gauge is the fastest tool. 28 TPI on a 9.7mm parallel thread = 1/8" BSP. 27 TPI tapered = 1/8" NPT. 1.0mm pitch on an 8mm parallel thread = M8×1. The Metric vs Imperial Fasteners Guide covers thread identification in more detail. Check the hex flats. 1/8" BSP commonly has 10mm or 14mm hex flats. 1/4"-28 UNF has 11/32" (8.7mm). Metric M6/M8/M10 typically has 8mm, 10mm, or 12mm. This is a confirming check, not a primary identifier. Test-fit a known nipple from the assortment kit as a final confirmation before installing the replacement. The Workshop Buddy Metric Grab Kit (M6×1 to M10×1.5) ($33.33) and Imperial Grab Kit (1/8"-27 to 1/4"-28) ($33.33) are designed specifically for this — both kits include a test-fit selection across the common AU sizes for ~$67 total. Materials — mild steel, stainless steel, brass Grease nipple body material drives corrosion resistance, strength, and price: Material Installation torque Corrosion resistance Best for AIMS supply examples Mild steel zinc-plated 20–30 Nm Limited — surface protection only. Will rust in marine, salt-spray, or constant-wet environments after the zinc coating wears. Indoor workshop assets, dry environments, general industrial maintenance Champion CGN15 Straight ($64.54), Champion CGN29 BSP Straight ($58.88), most Alemlube / Lubemate standard products. Default supply. Stainless steel 316/A4 20–30 Nm Excellent — marine grade. Withstands salt spray, food-grade washdown, chemical exposure Marine, food processing, pharmaceutical, outdoor heavy plant, coastal applications Champion SSCN29 1/8" BSP Stainless 316/A4 25/Pack ($76.44), Champion SSCN Straight Stainless Steel ($35.95), Champion C1808-13 M6×1 90° Stainless 10pk ($37.25) Brass 8–10 Nm only (snaps above this) Moderate — won't rust but tarnishes. Not suitable for high-vibration applications. Low-pressure brass plumbing applications, decorative or non-load-bearing fittings Specialty — source on request The most common installation mistake is over-torquing a brass-body nipple. Brass bodies have roughly one-third the yield strength of steel and snap at the thread root when over-tightened. Practical Machinist forum consensus: torque brass to 8 Nm max (feel: a snug hand-spanner pull, not a wrench pull). Steel and stainless tolerate 20-30 Nm comfortably. For coastal Australia, marine industry, and food-grade processing, stainless 316/A4 is the only sensible specification. The premium over mild steel is modest (Champion SSCN29 stainless 25-pack at $76.44 vs CN29 mild steel equivalents at ~$58.88) and corrosion-driven failure costs vastly more than the upfront fitting cost. Button head fittings — high-pressure / hard-to-reach The standard grease nipple has a small ball-end designed for a standard push-on grease gun coupler. Button head fittings are an alternative geometry with a larger, flatter head designed for a dedicated button-head coupler. Two scenarios drive button-head selection: Hard-to-reach applications — the larger flat head accepts a coupler at a wider range of angles without slipping off. Excavator stick pins, articulated dump truck joints, and large agricultural equipment commonly use button heads on points where the operator can only approach the fitting from off-axis. High-pressure greasing — button heads handle higher line pressures (10,000+ psi capable) without coupler blow-off, making them the standard on assets serviced with high-pressure grease guns. See the just-published Grease Gun Guide for the high-pressure gun selection and the 10,000 psi vs 5,000 psi vs hand-pump rating breakdown. Button head fittings require a matching button-head coupler — a standard grease gun coupler won't grip a button-head fitting. Workshops that service mining or large construction plant typically keep both styles of gun ready, or use a Macnaught Lock-N-Lube-style universal coupler that accommodates both. AIMS stocks button head fittings in standard thread sizes — search /collections/grease-nipples for button head variants. Compatible button-head couplers and high-pressure grease guns are available in /collections/grease-guns alongside the Macnaught universal Lock-N-Lube range. For lubrication oil dispensing (engine oil, gear oil, hydraulic oil) rather than grease, see the Oil Pump & Drum Pump Guide covering Macnaught BOP battery, OILMASTER and R-SERIES air-operated drum pumps. Specialty heavy-mining button heads sourced on request through our supplier network. Contact us for OEM-spec mining/excavator button head fittings. Header blocks and central greasing Central greasing systems consolidate multiple grease points into a single accessible location via a header block — a manifold with one input port and multiple output ports that route grease to individual bearings through small-bore tubing. The Alemlube Header Block 5 Outlet Fittings and Grease Nipples 6135 ($103.28) is a complete 5-point central greasing manifold. Mount the block in an accessible workshop location, run small-bore copper or nylon line from each outlet to the target bearing, and you can service five hard-to-reach points from one easy-access nipple instead of climbing onto equipment to reach each one individually. The use cases: Heavy plant with multiple buried bearings — agricultural machinery, conveyors, large fans Confined-space machinery where bearings sit behind guards, panels, or in unsafe-access positions Production-line equipment requiring scheduled multi-point greasing on shutdown — central greasing reduces the per-cycle labour from 30 minutes (climbing, removing guards, accessing each point) to 5 minutes (one technician at the manifold) For workshops servicing assets with more than 5–6 grease points, full automatic central greasing systems (electric pumps + distribution manifolds + timer controllers) become viable. Header blocks are the manual-pump entry tier. How to install a new grease nipple correctly Whether replacing a broken nipple or fitting a new one to a custom assembly, the workflow: Confirm the existing thread (if replacing). Wrong thread = host casting damage. See the identification section above. If drilling and tapping a new hole: drill to the tap drill size for your chosen thread. Common drill/tap pairs: 1/8" BSP = 8.8mm drill / R 1/8" tap. 1/4"-28 UNF = 5.5mm drill (#3 letter drill) / 1/4"-28 UNF tap. M6×1 = 5.0mm drill / M6×1 tap. M8×1 = 7.0mm drill / M8×1 tap. The Tap & Die Guide covers tapping technique. Tap straight — perpendicular to the surface. An off-axis tap creates an off-axis fitting that the grease gun coupler won't engage cleanly. Clean the new thread with compressed air or a thread-clearing pick to remove swarf. Swarf inside the thread will gall the nipple as you fit it. Apply thread sealant or PTFE tape on parallel threads (BSP, UNF, metric). NPT tapered threads typically don't need sealant. See the Thread Locking & Sealing Guide for sealant selection — Loctite 577 or 567 for high-pressure applications, PTFE tape for general workshop work. Hand-thread the nipple in for at least 3 full turns. If you feel resistance in the first 2 turns, stop — wrong thread or cross-threading. Back out, check, re-confirm. Wrench-tighten to 20-30 Nm for steel/stainless, 8-10 Nm for brass. A small open-ended spanner is the right tool — not a socket wrench, which over-torques easily. Test with the grease gun — attach the coupler, pump 2-3 strokes. Grease should enter without back-pressure. Disconnect cleanly. Wipe excess grease off the fitting and surrounding surface. For high-vibration applications (excavator pins, agricultural drawbar pivots, rotary equipment) add a small dab of Loctite 243 medium-strength threadlocker on the thread before installation. This prevents the nipple from backing out under vibration without preventing future removal. Why won't my grease nipple take grease? — 6 diagnostic steps A grease nipple that won't accept grease is the #1 maintenance frustration. The systematic diagnostic: Confirm the grease gun itself is working. Disconnect the coupler from the nipple and pump the handle — grease should emerge from the coupler. If not, the gun is the problem (empty cartridge, blocked feed, air-locked priming — see the Grease Gun Guide diagnostic). Confirm the coupler is fully engaged. A loose coupler engagement vents grease around the connection rather than into the nipple. Push the coupler firmly onto the nipple ball — you should hear or feel a slight click. If the ball end is dirty, contaminated grease prevents seal. Wipe clean and re-try. Test the nipple ball valve with a small nail. A 16-gauge nail or pick depressed against the ball should move freely. If the ball is stuck, the internal mechanism is fouled — see the unblocking section below. Check for back-pressure. If the grease gun handle gets harder and harder to pump but no grease moves into the nipple, the back-pressure is downstream — the bearing cavity itself may be full of contaminated grease that won't compress further, or the bearing's relief path is blocked. Solution: continue moderate pressure, allow time for the bearing to relieve, or in extreme cases dismantle and clean. Verify the bearing has a grease path. Some sealed bearings appear to have a grease nipple but the bearing internal cavity is fully sealed — the nipple is decorative or non-functional. Common on small budget machinery imported from low-cost markets. Check the equipment service manual. Check for contaminated grease in the nipple. If old hardened grease has solidified inside the nipple body itself (not the bearing cavity), grease physically can't move through. See the unblocking section. Clearing a blocked grease nipple If diagnosis points to a blocked nipple (gun works, bearing cavity has grease path, but the nipple itself won't accept grease), four field techniques in order of escalation: The rag trick (Dorman Shop Press technique). Fold a thin rag (old t-shirt cotton) over the nipple. Press the grease gun coupler firmly onto the nipple through the rag. The rag creates a better seal and applies even pressure to the ball valve. Pump 3-4 strokes. Often releases mild contamination on the ball. The 16d nail trick (universal forum consensus). A 16-gauge nail or pick tip depressed firmly against the centre ball of the nipple, used to physically dislodge contamination. Forum threads from Snowblower Forum, MyTractorForum, and Practical Machinist consistently report this resolves "about 90% of stuck-ball" cases. Wipe excess clean before retrying with the grease gun. Penetrating oil + back-and-forth pin rotation. If the ball valve mechanism itself is seized (not just dirty), apply penetrating oil to the ball end, work the ball back and forth with a pin or nail tip until it moves freely. Wait 15-20 minutes for the penetrant to wick into the spring mechanism. Re-try the grease gun. Heat application + immediate grease. Warm the nipple body briefly with a propane torch (5–10 seconds, not red-hot). The heat thins the hardened grease inside the nipple. Immediately attach the grease gun and pump while the body is still warm. The thinned grease pushes out, fresh grease pushes in. Use sparingly — repeated heat-cycling can degrade the nipple's spring temper. If all four techniques fail, the nipple is mechanically failed (broken spring, deformed body) and needs replacement. The Grease Buster-style dedicated tool (penetrating oil reservoir + impact piston) handles severe cases without damaging the nipple body — useful where the nipple is in a position you can't easily replace. How to remove a broken grease nipple A snapped grease nipple — head broken off flush with the host surface, or partial thread shear leaving a stub in the casting — requires extraction. The good news: grease nipple bodies are mild steel (or stainless), much softer than hardened bolts. Extraction is usually straightforward. Apply penetrating oil to the broken stub. Allow 20 minutes minimum for the oil to wick into the thread. If a stub protrudes: grip with locking pliers (Vise-Grip style) and rotate counterclockwise. Many broken nipples back out at this stage without any extractor needed. If flush with surface or below: centre punch the broken nipple. Drill a small pilot hole (2.5mm-3mm) into the centre. Use a screw extractor (Easy-Out) at #1 or #2 size — see the just-published Bolt Extractor Guide for the combined left-hand drill + extractor workflow. For really stubborn nipples: drill the entire body out to the tap drill size for the thread, then re-tap the original thread to clean it up. The Bordo or Sutton M603S20L combined left-hand drill + extractor sets handle this in 5 minutes. If the thread is damaged during extraction: follow the Stripped Thread Repair Guide — drill oversize, tap M-larger, and fit a Helicoil thread insert. Avoid hammering or applying side-load to the broken stub. Grease nipple bodies are softer than the host casting but the host thread is the part you're trying to preserve — damaging the host thread is far more expensive than the $2 nipple. Grease nipple caps — when dust protection matters A grease nipple cap is a small dust cover that snaps over the ball end of the fitting. The Champion CGNC10 Grease Nipple Cap ($13.93) is the AIMS workshop default. Caps protect the ball end between greasing intervals — without one, the nipple ball is exposed to dust, water, and chemical contamination. Buy in bulk packs from /collections/grease-nipples. Caps matter most in three scenarios: Dusty environments — mining, quarrying, agriculture, construction sites. Dust accumulates on the ball end between greasing intervals, and the first grease gun stroke pushes contamination directly into the bearing. The cap blocks contamination at the source. High-pressure water washdown — food processing, marine, dairy. Water under pressure forces past the ball valve into the bearing cavity, displacing grease and accelerating corrosion. Caps with O-ring seals are mandatory for these applications. Long service intervals — equipment greased monthly or quarterly. The longer the gap between greasing, the more dust accumulates, and the higher the contamination risk per service. For most general workshop environments — indoor maintenance, dry industrial — caps are optional. For mining, marine, food processing, agricultural and outdoor heavy plant they should be standard fitment. Selection guide — workshop kit vs OEM-spec replacement Two distinct purchase scenarios drive different product selection: Scenario 1: Workshop assortment for general maintenance. You service a mix of equipment — agricultural, automotive, plant — and need ready access to common sizes. Buy assortment kits: Light workshop: Workshop Buddy Metric Grab Kit M6-M10 ($33.33) + Workshop Buddy Imperial Grab Kit 1/8-1/4 ($33.33). $67 covers most common AU sizes. Mid workshop: GJ Works GKA144 144-piece Kit ($54.11) — broader range, single case. Production / fleet workshop: Champion CA2415 Metric & Imperial Master Kit ($265.12) — comprehensive, includes premium stainless, fits the daily-use serviceable workshop. Scenario 2: OEM-spec replacement. You've identified an exact fitting type, size, and geometry, and need replacement-spec only: Bulk replacement (10-25 of one type): Champion CN-series 25/packs ($11.82–$76.44), perfect for fleet servicing where you replace nipples on a schedule. Single replacement: Alemlube individual refills ($2.55–$3.50) — buy one of the exact spec. Refill packs for trade box: Champion Refill packs ($6.76–$12.13) — 10-piece packs in straight, 45°, 67°, 90° for replenishing your trade box. Marine / food-grade replacement: Champion SSCN-series stainless 316/A4 ($35.95–$76.44 per pack) — non-negotiable for these environments. AIMS supply — Champion, Alemlube, Lubemate, Workshop Buddy, GJ Works AIMS stocks 160+ unique grease nipple SKUs across five vendors in /collections/grease-nipples — the deepest grease nipple supply position in AU industrial distribution outside the specialty lubrication trade. Vendor profile: Vendor Range depth Strengths Best for Champion 68 SKUs Comprehensive — refill packs, bulk packs (25/100 packs), assortment kits, stainless steel, all thread types, all geometries, grease nipple caps Trade workshop, fleet maintenance, multi-thread assortment Alemlube 60 SKUs Individual fittings priced for low-quantity replacement ($2.55+), header blocks, central greasing components, BSP focus Single-fitting replacement, central greasing system builds Lubemate 29 SKUs Mid-tier between Alemlube and Champion. Tapered metric thread specialty. Workshop trade box, mid-volume use Workshop Buddy 2 grab kits Compact 110-piece grab kits covering metric and imperial sizes ($33.33 each) Mobile mechanic, service ute, on-site repair GJ Works 1 master kit GKA144 144-piece kit ($54.11) — broad single-case assortment Trade workshop entry-level master kit Browse the complete range at /collections/grease-nipples. For grease guns, couplers and high-pressure equipment to use with these fittings see /collections/grease-guns and the Grease Gun Guide. For lubricants and grease selection see /collections/greases and the Grease Types & Selection Guide. Honest scope: AIMS doesn't stock Tecalemit (UK premium specialty), Lincoln Industrial (US specialty branded), or Stauff (German central greasing). These specialty brands are available through our supplier network on request — contact us if you need a specific brand-spec replacement for European or US heavy plant. Common mistakes — failure modes table Mistake What goes wrong Fix Cross-threading 1/8" BSP into 1/8" NPT host (or vice versa) Host casting thread stripped — host casting often unsalvageable without thread repair Always confirm thread before installing. Hand-thread 3 turns minimum without resistance. Over-torquing brass body nipple Body snaps at thread root, stub stuck in host Brass = 8-10 Nm max. Hand-spanner pull only, not a wrench. Forgetting thread sealant on parallel BSP threads Grease leaks past thread under pressure, fitting walks out under vibration PTFE tape or Loctite 577 on all parallel threads. NPT tapered doesn't need sealant. Installing wrong angle (straight where 90° needed) Grease gun coupler won't fit due to access constraints — wasted fitting Check the access angle before ordering. Angled fittings are inexpensive — order a variety pack. Hammering on a blocked nipple to clear it Internal spring damaged, ball valve deformed, body cracked Penetrating oil + tap/vibrate gently. Use Grease Buster tool for stubborn blockages. Specifying mild steel for marine/coastal use Nipple corrodes within 6-12 months, grease passages contaminate Stainless 316/A4 for any marine, food-grade, or coastal application. Modest premium. No grease nipple cap in dusty environment Dust pushed into bearing on first grease stroke after dust exposure Add caps to all exposed nipples on mining/agricultural/outdoor plant. Reusing a damaged nipple after extraction Ball valve compromised, leaks or fails to seal — bearing greasing unreliable Replace any nipple removed for any reason. They're $2-$3 each. Don't reinstall used. Frequently Asked Questions What is a grease nipple and what does it do? A grease nipple is a small one-way valve threaded into a bearing housing, pivot pin, or moving part. When a grease gun coupler attaches and pumps grease through, the nipple's internal spring-loaded ball valve opens to admit fresh grease and closes between strokes to prevent grease escape and dirt ingress. The nipple allows scheduled relubrication without dismantling the bearing. Is a zerk fitting the same as a grease nipple? Yes — same product, different name. "Zerk" is the US term (after Oscar Zerk, who patented the design in 1929); "grease nipple" is the Australian, British, European and New Zealand term. Both refer to the same one-way valve fitting. AU industrial buyers use "grease nipple"; 4WD and agricultural buyers from US-influenced supply chains sometimes use "zerk." The product is identical. What thread size is a standard grease nipple in Australia? 1/8" BSP is the dominant standard on Australian-manufactured equipment, garden machinery, trailers, and AU-spec plant. 1/4"-28 UNF is common on automotive (especially older Holden/Ford) and US-imported 4WD. M-thread metric (M6×1, M8×1, M10×1) appears on European-built equipment. 1/8" NPT shows up on US hydraulic equipment. AU workshops typically stock all four standards because all four appear regularly. How do I tell BSP from NPT grease nipples? 1/8" BSP has 28 threads per inch with a parallel shank (cylindrical, same diameter top to bottom). 1/8" NPT has 27 threads per inch with a tapered shank (visibly cone-shaped, wider at the head than the tip). A thread gauge confirms TPI in seconds. They look almost identical — 1/8" BSP at 28 TPI vs 1/8" NPT at 27 TPI — and cross-threading damages the host casting. Hand-thread the nipple three turns minimum; if you feel resistance, stop and re-verify. What's the difference between metric and imperial grease nipples? Imperial (1/8" BSP, 1/4"-28 UNF, 1/8" NPT) measures in inches and TPI. Metric (M6×1, M8×1, M10×1) measures in millimetres and pitch in millimetres. The two systems are not cross-compatible — an M6×1 nipple won't fit a 1/4"-28 UNF hole even though they're similar sizes. Always match metric-to-metric and imperial-to-imperial. Champion CA2415 master kit and similar assortment kits include both systems for AU workshops servicing mixed equipment. Are all grease nipple ball ends the same size? Yes. The ball end where the grease gun coupler attaches is universally the same dimension across all standard grease nipples regardless of thread type or angle. A standard grease gun coupler fits a 1/8" BSP nipple, a 1/4"-28 UNF nipple, a M6×1 nipple, and a 1/8" NPT nipple identically. The thread is purely how the nipple fits into the host casting; the coupler end is global standard. Button head fittings are the exception — they have a larger flat head and require a dedicated button-head coupler. Why won't my grease nipple take grease? Six possible causes: (1) grease gun itself is empty or air-locked, (2) coupler not fully engaged on the ball, (3) ball valve in nipple is stuck with contamination, (4) bearing cavity is full and back-pressure prevents further grease entry, (5) bearing is internally sealed and the nipple is decorative/non-functional, or (6) hardened grease has solidified inside the nipple body itself. Diagnose in that order — gun → coupler → ball → cavity → bearing path → nipple body. How do I unblock a grease nipple? Four techniques in escalating order: (1) the "rag trick" — fold a thin rag over the nipple and press the coupler through it for better seal; (2) the "16d nail" trick — depress the ball valve with a nail or pick tip to dislodge contamination (works 90% of stuck-ball cases per forum consensus); (3) penetrating oil plus gentle back-and-forth ball-pin rotation; (4) heat the nipple body briefly with a propane torch then immediately attach the grease gun. If all four fail, replace the nipple. Can I remove a broken grease nipple without damaging the casting? Yes, usually. Grease nipple bodies are mild steel — much softer than hardened bolts. Apply penetrating oil, wait 20 minutes. If a stub protrudes, grip with locking pliers and turn counterclockwise — many back out at this stage. If flush or below: centre punch, drill a 2.5-3mm pilot hole, use a #1 or #2 screw extractor (Bordo or Sutton Easy-Out). See the Bolt Extractor Guide for the full extraction workflow. Replace any nipple after removal — don't reinstall used. What's a button head grease nipple and when do I use one? A button head fitting has a larger, flatter head designed for a dedicated button-head coupler. Used in two scenarios: hard-to-reach applications where the coupler needs to engage from off-axis (excavator pins, articulated joints, large agricultural equipment), and high-pressure greasing applications (10,000+ psi capable) where standard couplers can blow off under pressure. Button heads require a matching coupler — a standard grease gun coupler won't work. Common on heavy plant and mining equipment. Should I use stainless or brass grease nipples outdoors? Stainless 316/A4 — every time. Stainless handles marine salt-spray, food-grade washdown, chemical exposure, and outdoor weather. Brass tarnishes and has low torque tolerance (snaps at 8-10 Nm). Mild steel zinc-plated works for dry indoor workshops but rusts in marine, coastal, or wet environments within 6-12 months. The Champion SSCN-series stainless 316/A4 range costs modestly more than mild steel — a few extra dollars per pack — and prevents corrosion-driven failure that costs orders of magnitude more. What torque should I use to install a grease nipple? Steel and stainless steel: 20-30 Nm — a firm hand-spanner pull with a 10mm or 14mm open-ended spanner. Brass: 8-10 Nm only — a snug spanner pull, not a wrench pull. Brass snaps at the thread root if over-torqued. Always use an open-ended spanner, not a socket wrench, which over-torques easily. Hand-thread three turns minimum first — if resistance during initial threading, you have the wrong thread and need to stop. Why does my grease gun coupler keep popping off? Three common causes: (1) coupler not fully engaged on the ball — push firmly until you feel a slight click; (2) ball end of the nipple is contaminated or damaged — wipe clean or replace the nipple; (3) line pressure is too high for a standard coupler (over 5,000 psi) — switch to a button head fitting + button-head coupler, or use a Lock-N-Lube-style locking coupler that mechanically grips the ball rather than relying on spring tension. See the Grease Gun Guide for coupler selection. Do I need a thread sealant on a grease nipple? Parallel threads (1/8" BSP, 1/4"-28 UNF, M6×1, M8×1, M10×1) need either PTFE tape, a copper/fibre washer, or anaerobic thread sealant (Loctite 577 or 567) to seal — the parallel thread itself doesn't seal against grease pressure. Tapered threads (1/8" NPT) seal on the thread interface itself and don't strictly need sealant, though many workshops apply PTFE tape as a precaution. Always seal parallel threads; tapered threads are optional. What's the difference between 45° and 90° grease nipples — does it matter which I use? Yes — angle determines access. A 45° fitting redirects the ball end 45° from the thread axis; a 90° fitting redirects it 90° (perpendicular). On a tight bearing where the grease gun can only approach from a specific angle, the wrong fitting geometry means the coupler can't engage. Workshop assortment kits include straight, 45°, and 90° in each thread size precisely because access varies. Check the access angle before ordering, or stock all three angles to handle any situation. Share: Share on Facebook Share on X Pin on Pinterest Previous Post Bolt Extractor Guide: Easy-Outs, Spiral Flute, Multi-Spline & Bolt Extractor Sockets Next Post Reciprocating Saw Blade Guide: TPI Selection, Bi-Metal vs Carbide, Wood/Metal/Demolition Blade Choice People Also Ask — Grease Nipples & Zerk Fittings Q: What is a grease nipple and what is it used for? A grease nipple (also known as a Zerk fitting, grease fitting or lubrication nipple) is a small threaded fitting installed in machinery to allow grease to be injected into a bearing, joint or pivot point through a grease gun. The fitting contains a spring-loaded ball check valve that opens under pressure from the grease gun and closes when pressure is removed, preventing contaminants from entering. They are found on wheel hubs, suspension joints, universal joints, conveyor bearings, agricultural equipment and almost any machine with a grease-lubricated bearing. Q: What is the difference between straight, 45-degree and 90-degree grease nipples? Straight grease nipples suit locations where the grease gun can be applied in a straight line, typically on the side of a bearing housing or joint. 45-degree and 90-degree angled nipples are used where space restrictions prevent straight-on access — the angled body points the inlet in a more accessible direction while the grease flow is redirected. Using the wrong angle can make greasing awkward or impossible in confined machinery. Where access is very restricted, hydraulic-style flush nipples (button-head) are also available. Q: How do I know when a bearing needs re-greasing? Re-greasing intervals depend on bearing speed, temperature, load and operating environment. Manufacturer-specified intervals are the primary guide. In the absence of specifications, a practical rule is to re-grease at a set number of operating hours based on the bearing size and speed. Signs that a bearing needs grease include elevated operating temperature, increased noise, or visible grease depletion. Avoid over-greasing — excessive grease builds up pressure inside the bearing, generates heat and can force seals. Re-grease slowly and stop as soon as clean grease appears at the seal lips or purge point. Q: Why is my grease gun not pumping grease through the nipple? The most common causes are a blocked or frozen grease nipple ball valve, a damaged coupling that is not sealing over the nipple head, or hardened or contaminated grease in the nipple passage. Try removing the nipple and cleaning the ball valve, or replace the nipple. Check that the grease gun coupler is fully seated and not leaking around the nipple. In cold conditions, grease becomes much harder to pump — warming the grease gun or the fitting can help. If the bearing housing is already overfull, grease will not pump in because there is no room for it to go. Q: What thread size are most standard grease nipples? The most common thread sizes for grease nipples in metric markets are M6 × 1.0 (common on European and Australian equipment) and M8 × 1.0. In imperial applications, 1/4-28 UNF and 1/8-27 NPT are the most common. Before replacing a grease nipple, identify the thread by using a thread gauge or measuring carefully — cross-threading a replacement nipple in an aluminium or cast iron housing can cause expensive damage. Grease nipples are available in a wide range of metric and imperial thread sizes to suit different equipment. Related Posts bordo Reciprocating Saw Blade Guide: TPI Selection, Bi-Metal vs Carbide, Wood/Metal/Demolition Blade Choice May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial bolt-extractor Bolt Extractor Guide: Easy-Outs, Spiral Flute, Multi-Spline & Bolt Extractor Sockets May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial Charts Choosing the Right Drill Bit: Types, Sizes & Charts May 11, 2026 admin
Read moreBolt Extractor Guide: Easy-Outs, Spiral Flute & Sockets
Bolt extractors: spiral fluted, square, multi-spline and bolt extractor sockets compared. Left-hand drills, hardened-bolt failure mode and weld-a-nut technique.
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Quick and Easy Electric Motor Selection Guide
People Also Ask — Electric Motor Selection: What do I need to know to select an electric motor? Plus 4 more buyer questions answered by AIMS Industrial.
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CRC Brings Back the Joy of Maintenance
Maintenance activities always sound like a big chore, but not anymore. These products from CRC can make your tasks easier: CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner CRC Red Lithium Grease CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant with PermaStraw™ anchor" id="auto-ac-pro-cleaner">CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner You should always keep your car's air-conditioning system clean for maximum efficiency all year round. Now, you can do that more easily with the CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner. Benefits: Cleans and sanitizes vehicle air-conditioner without having to disassemble any major parts of the system – you just have to pop out the cabin filter to access the air inlet Thoroughly cleans with its foaming formulation Comes with a 45 cm hose applicator for easy application Kills mould and bacteria Eliminates odours and other unpleasant smells in the cabin Leaves long-lasting protection and a pleasant fragrance The CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner is a cost-effective AC maintenance solution for both passenger and commercial vehicles. How to use the product: Make sure the vehicle is parked in a properly ventilated area. Pop the bonnet to help ventilate out the foam you will apply in step 7. Make sure the engine and all electrical installations in the vehicle are switched off. Remove the cabin air filters and other filter systems. Shake the can well and attach the hose applicator / extension tube to the can nozzle. Insert the extension tube about 30cm into the air inlet of the AC system. Spray the product until the system is full of foam. During the complete operation and until total evaporation of the active foam, make sure the workspace is ventilated and the bonnet left open. Leave it to work for at least 30 minutes (during this period, the foam will discharge through the AC drain). Turn on the engine and let it idle for 10 to 20 minutes, with the heating and ventilation system set to maximum. Make sure the evaporator is dry. Replace the cabin air filter. Don’t forget to close the bonnet. Important: This is a professional service product and should only be used by trained professionals. Buy the CRC Auto AC Pro Cleaner. CRC Red Lithium Grease Red Lithium Grease is CRC’s heavy-duty, multi-purpose NLGI 2 grease. It is formulated with anti-oxidation, anti-rust and anti-wear additives, so you can be sure your equipment always performs at its peak. Benefits: Withstands extreme pressure and temperature (effective from -35°C to +149°C) Offers a long-lasting lubricating protection Protects against rust and corrosion Resists sling-off Resists moisture, water and detergents, so it won’t wash out Stays in place, thanks to its high tackiness Long service life Some popular applications: Assembly plants Automotive Bearings Construction Drying ovens Electric motors Kilns Mining Metal production Off-road operations Pumps Reapers Water pumps Buy the CRC Red Lithium Grease. CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant with PermaStraw™ (New look) Your favourite “toolkit in a can” got a new look in May 2022. What’s new: The 5-56 now comes with PermaStraw™ Dual-Action Spray System (one-piece actuator with two-way spray that ensures the straw stays in place) The Marine 66 is now the 5-56 Marine Benefits: Restores smooth action by penetrating rust to get rid of squeaks and squeals without the need for disassembly Eliminates (and prevents) moisture in wet equipment Frees up components bonded by dirt and scale Lubricates contacts and joints to restore smooth action Protects metals against corrosion Minimises potential breakdowns caused by harsh environmental exposures such as high humidity Buy the CRC 5-56 Multi-Purpose Lubricant or the PermaStraw version. AIMS' Note on Safe Use of Lubricants Protective gear: Protect your skin and eyes! Wear chemical-resistant gloves to prevent skin irritation or absorption of chemicals. Safety glasses or goggles provide essential eye protection. Additionally, consider using a respirator if fumes are particularly strong or you are working for an extended period. Labels and instructions: Before using any product, carefully read the instructions and safety warnings on the label. Follow the specific guidelines for usage, proper handling and disposal. Check for ‘use by’ dates. Fire hazards: Many parts cleaners and lubricants are flammable. Keep them away from open flames, heat sources, and anything that could cause a spark. Store these products in a cool, dry location in their original containers, out of the reach of children and pets. Environment: Choose less toxic and environmentally friendly options whenever possible. Make sure there are no open flames or anything that can ignite flammable substances. Dispose of used products and empty containers responsibly according to the instructions or your local hazardous waste guidelines. Ventilation: When working with chemicals that release strong fumes, always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in an open area. If you are working indoors, make sure that the windows are open and consider using fans to increase airflow and disperse / vent out the fumes. Need to deal with rust? Our Rust Treatments collection covers removers, converters and protective undercoats. Share: Share on Facebook Share on X Pin on Pinterest Previous Post Quick and Easy Electric Motor Selection Guide Next Post How to Identify High Tensile Bolts Related Posts bordo Reciprocating Saw Blade Guide: TPI Selection, Bi-Metal vs Carbide, Wood/Metal/Demolition Blade Choice May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial bsp Grease Nipple & Zerk Fitting Guide: Thread Sizes, Types, BSP vs UNF & How to Identify May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial bolt-extractor Bolt Extractor Guide: Easy-Outs, Spiral Flute, Multi-Spline & Bolt Extractor Sockets May 11, 2026 AIMS Industrial People Also Ask — CRC Maintenance Products Q: What is CRC 5-56 used for? CRC 5-56 is a multi-purpose maintenance spray used for loosening seized fasteners, displacing moisture from electrical components, lubricating cables and hinges, and providing short-term corrosion protection on metal surfaces. It is one of the most widely used maintenance sprays in Australian workshops and trades. Q: What is the difference between CRC 5-56 and CRC White Lithium Grease? CRC 5-56 is a light penetrating oil and moisture displacer suited to freeing seized parts and general lubrication where a thin oil film is adequate. CRC White Lithium Grease is a heavier semi-solid grease that stays in place under higher loads and provides longer-lasting lubrication for chassis fittings, hinges, slides and components that require a grease rather than an oil. Q: Can CRC Brakleen be used on all brake components? CRC Brakleen is designed to remove grease, oil, dust and brake fluid residue from disc rotors, drums, callipers and pads. It evaporates cleanly without leaving residue. It should not be used on rubber brake lines, seals or flexible hoses without checking compatibility, and should not be inhaled in confined spaces due to solvent content. Q: What CRC products are suitable for electrical applications? CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and CRC Contact Cleaner are designed for cleaning electrical contacts, circuit boards and connectors. They evaporate quickly, leave no residue and are safe for most electronic components when used correctly. CRC 5-56 can be used sparingly for moisture displacement in electrical connectors but is not a substitute for a dedicated electronic cleaner where residue-free results are required.
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How to Identify High-Tensile Bolts: Grade Markings Decoded
Read bolt head markings, decode ISO 898-1 metric property classes (4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9) and SAE J429 imperial grades, check AS/NZS 1252.1 structural bolts, and avoid counterfeits. Practical Australian guide with selection tables.
Read moreQuick Guide to Choosing an Electric Motor
Here are questions we might ask to help you identify the electric motor you’re looking for.
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How to Calculate Pulley Speed Ratios
What’s the Deal with Pulley Ratios? This guide is part of AIMS Industrial's curated Engineering Reference Charts library — 78 reference articles across fasteners, threading, bearings, lubrication and safety standards. The pulley ratio is all about size—and no, it’s not just for show. The relationship between your driver pulley (the one doing the hard yakka) and your driven pulley (the one getting powered) decides how fast things spin and how much torque you’ll get. Big driven pulley = Slower but stronger Small driven pulley = Faster but lighter on the torque The Magic Formula Want to know how fast your driven pulley will go? Use this:Driven Speed (RPM) = Driver Speed (RPM) × (Driver Diameter ÷ Driven Diameter) Example (Easy as): If your driver pulley is 10 cm and spins at 1000 RPM: Driven Pulley (20 cm): 1000 × (10 ÷ 20) = 500 RPM Driven Pulley (5 cm): 1000 × (10 ÷ 5) = 2000 RPM See? No sweat. Need Pulleys or Belts? Skip the runaround and grab what you need from AIMS Industrial. We have a wide range of: Pulleys for all setups Belts in every size Whatever your project, we’ve got your back. Learn More For a deep dive into pulley speed ratios and tips, visit our Pulley Speed Ratio Blog. There you go—pulley speed ratios, made fun and easy. Now go be a pulley pro! A Quick Word on Safety Look, we all love a job well done, but don’t forget to stay safe: Always turn off your machine and lock it out before tinkering. Keep your belt tension and alignment in check. Don’t wear loose clothes or let your hair get too close—trust us. Safety guards aren’t optional. Use ’em. Need an actual human to help? We're Here For You! We’re your mates in industrial supplies, helping Aussie tradies and businesses get the job done right. From quality parts to expert advice, we’re here to make your life easier. Reach out to us HERE People Also Ask — Pulley Speed Ratio Q: How do I calculate pulley speed ratio? Pulley speed and diameter are inversely related, captured by the rule that the drive pulley's speed times its diameter equals the driven pulley's speed times its diameter (N1 x D1 = N2 x D2). Rearranged, the driven speed equals the drive speed multiplied by the drive diameter divided by the driven diameter. So a small pulley driving a large one slows the output down, and a large pulley driving a small one speeds it up. To find any one value you need the other three. This simple relationship lets you size pulleys to hit a target output speed without trial and error. Q: If I want to slow a driven shaft down, which pulley do I change? To slow the driven shaft, you want the driven pulley to be larger than the drive pulley — or you make the drive pulley smaller. Because speed is inversely proportional to diameter, fitting a bigger pulley on the driven shaft reduces its speed, while fitting a smaller pulley on the driving (motor) shaft does the same. For example, doubling the driven pulley diameter relative to the drive pulley roughly halves the output speed. The reverse is true to speed things up. Working out the exact ratio with the N1 x D1 = N2 x D2 rule tells you the diameters you need to reach the speed you want. Q: Does pulley ratio affect torque as well as speed? Yes — speed and torque trade off through the same ratio. When a pulley arrangement reduces output speed, it increases the torque available at the output by roughly the same factor (less small losses), and when it increases speed it reduces torque. This is why a drive that gears down to run slower also delivers more turning force, which is often exactly what heavily loaded equipment needs. So when you select a pulley ratio you are choosing a balance: more speed and less torque, or less speed and more torque. Knowing the load's torque demand as well as its speed is key to picking the right ratio. Q: What is the difference between pitch diameter and outside diameter? The outside diameter is the measurement across the outer edge of the pulley, while the pitch diameter is the effective diameter at the point where the belt actually grips and transmits power — slightly inside the rim for a V-pulley. Speed-ratio calculations should use pitch diameters, because that is where the belt's effective contact occurs, so using outside diameters introduces a small error. For rough estimates outside diameter is close enough, but for accurate speed and ratio work, use the pitch diameters quoted for the pulleys. The difference is small on large pulleys but more significant on small ones. Q: Why does my actual output speed differ slightly from the calculation? Small differences come mainly from belt slip and from using outside rather than pitch diameter. A V-belt grips by wedging into the pulley groove, but there is always a little slip under load, so the real output runs marginally below the calculated figure — and a loose, worn or glazed belt slips more. Using outside diameter instead of pitch diameter also shifts the result slightly. For most drives these effects are minor, but if the output speed matters precisely, calculate with pitch diameters, keep the belt correctly tensioned, and expect a small reduction from slip. Where exact speed is essential, a variable speed drive removes the guesswork.
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Quick Guide to Choosing the Right LOCTITE® Product
LOCTITE® offers a variety of adhesives tailored for specific applications. Here's a quick rundown to help you choose:
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